1988 junked RX-7
06-23-04, 12:06 PM
#1
I can't stop boosting!!
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1988 junked RX-7
Okay well, first post, heh heh. *loosens collar*
Well, I tried using the search engine to no avail as the lag it puts out is unbelievable so I'm just gonna start a new thread with all my concerns/questions/etc.
First thing. Two weeks ago I rescued a 1988 RX-7 GTU from the junkyard, it was sitting in the mud up to it's frame, all flats, dry rot, with weeds hiding the car from the rest of the world. Well I was poking around and pried the door open with a slim jim to find the interior in great shape, with minor tears on the dash and the musty smell of air that had been sitting for three years. *No mold*.
I popped the hood and found the engine in good condition, minus the fact that the last person who drove the car didn't know what to do with it, and drove it till it could drive no more and dropped it off at the lot and never looked back.
So I payed $ 150 to the yard mechanic, pulled it out of the mud, loaded it on a trailor and took it home.
Me and my gearhead buddies put in a fresh battery, changed all the belts, new air filter, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, toyed with this and that, sprayed this hear, and that there. And coaxed the engine into living once more. After a little more tuning, and finding the clutch to be non existant, we replaced the clutch, remachined the poor flywheel, aligned the **** out of it. And took it for a test drive, it flew like a bat out of hell!
But the engine "cylinder" looks like it's leaking oil as the spark plugs where coated in oil after our first test run, and the shifter is getting real hot. And we honestly don't know anything about rotary engines. This is our first.
Questions are, is there anything else major that we should look into taking car of asap? The car has 171000 miles on it. And what should we expect from a car like this? What is that dumb security light thing in the center console? Why won't the drivers side door unlock?
And my own personal questions are, what is so good about the RX-7 GTU? What makes it different? What are the easiest things to do to it that will make it perform? And where can I find a brand new block*made for turbo* and a new turbo kit for it?
The list of new items are
New fuel pump/filter
New brake pads front and back
New spark plugs/wires
New air filter
flushed cooling system
Synthetic oil change/filter
4 new tires
New clutch kit
New slave cyl. and slave to master hose for the hydraulic clutch
New battery and battery terminals
Air freshener!!
All new belts *4*
Sprayed throttle cleaner into the throttle body
Loaded the fuel tank up with 93 octane and full fuel system cleaner
New windshield wiper blades
All new fuses.
And that's pretty much it.
Thanks for your time!
Well, I tried using the search engine to no avail as the lag it puts out is unbelievable so I'm just gonna start a new thread with all my concerns/questions/etc.
First thing. Two weeks ago I rescued a 1988 RX-7 GTU from the junkyard, it was sitting in the mud up to it's frame, all flats, dry rot, with weeds hiding the car from the rest of the world. Well I was poking around and pried the door open with a slim jim to find the interior in great shape, with minor tears on the dash and the musty smell of air that had been sitting for three years. *No mold*.
I popped the hood and found the engine in good condition, minus the fact that the last person who drove the car didn't know what to do with it, and drove it till it could drive no more and dropped it off at the lot and never looked back.
So I payed $ 150 to the yard mechanic, pulled it out of the mud, loaded it on a trailor and took it home.
Me and my gearhead buddies put in a fresh battery, changed all the belts, new air filter, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, toyed with this and that, sprayed this hear, and that there. And coaxed the engine into living once more. After a little more tuning, and finding the clutch to be non existant, we replaced the clutch, remachined the poor flywheel, aligned the **** out of it. And took it for a test drive, it flew like a bat out of hell!
But the engine "cylinder" looks like it's leaking oil as the spark plugs where coated in oil after our first test run, and the shifter is getting real hot. And we honestly don't know anything about rotary engines. This is our first.
Questions are, is there anything else major that we should look into taking car of asap? The car has 171000 miles on it. And what should we expect from a car like this? What is that dumb security light thing in the center console? Why won't the drivers side door unlock?
And my own personal questions are, what is so good about the RX-7 GTU? What makes it different? What are the easiest things to do to it that will make it perform? And where can I find a brand new block*made for turbo* and a new turbo kit for it?
The list of new items are
New fuel pump/filter
New brake pads front and back
New spark plugs/wires
New air filter
flushed cooling system
Synthetic oil change/filter
4 new tires
New clutch kit
New slave cyl. and slave to master hose for the hydraulic clutch
New battery and battery terminals
Air freshener!!
All new belts *4*
Sprayed throttle cleaner into the throttle body
Loaded the fuel tank up with 93 octane and full fuel system cleaner
New windshield wiper blades
All new fuses.
And that's pretty much it.
Thanks for your time!
06-23-04, 12:20 PM
#2
Rotors? What Are Those?
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another thing forgot to add the GTU is the "sports" model has a TII suspenion and LSD i think also not exactly shure on this one has 5lug other than that thats about it elnots if you really intrested and have some concerns give me your number ill call you and you ask me anything you want to know..... ill call so you dont have to pay if you want..
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06-23-04, 12:23 PM
#3
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Which junkyard did you pull it from?
$150 is a good deal from a junk yard.
Oil on the spark plugs may be leaking at the seals? Does it smoke a lot during your drive?
The heat from the Shifter probably means the rubber around the shifter are all worn out and need to be replaced. You can probably pick them up at Mazda-Max or mazdatrix.com. It might cost as much as your car tho.
What I did to mine was get the short shifter and reuse most of the rubber boot. Here is a link Mazdatrix
Good luck and nice find.
$150 is a good deal from a junk yard.
Oil on the spark plugs may be leaking at the seals? Does it smoke a lot during your drive?
The heat from the Shifter probably means the rubber around the shifter are all worn out and need to be replaced. You can probably pick them up at Mazda-Max or mazdatrix.com. It might cost as much as your car tho.
What I did to mine was get the short shifter and reuse most of the rubber boot. Here is a link Mazdatrix Good luck and nice find.
06-23-04, 12:42 PM
#4
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Oh boy, here we go.
Don't run 93. It's a waste of money and will not help it run any better. It's not a turbo, you have nothing to worry about with detonation, run 87. The security light you speak of is the stock factory alarm. How much 'oil' would you say was on the plugs? Did it smoke at all? Chances are the lock mechanism on the outside is broke, and thus why it won't open the door (mines the same way). The shifter will get 'hot' if the rubber seals underneath the shifter boot are torn or non-existant, it lets heat sneak up from under the car then. I would suggest checking the catalytic converters, chances are they're pretty much shot and are plugged. If you don't see any smoke when the cars running/etc, I wouldn't worry about it. Run either a very good synthetic (mobil 1), or stick with regular oil (castrol GTX is a favorite). The GTU was the 'sporty' model, it came with a limited-slip rear end, 4 piston front brakes, 5 lug, and stiffer suspension.
Don't run 93. It's a waste of money and will not help it run any better. It's not a turbo, you have nothing to worry about with detonation, run 87. The security light you speak of is the stock factory alarm. How much 'oil' would you say was on the plugs? Did it smoke at all? Chances are the lock mechanism on the outside is broke, and thus why it won't open the door (mines the same way). The shifter will get 'hot' if the rubber seals underneath the shifter boot are torn or non-existant, it lets heat sneak up from under the car then. I would suggest checking the catalytic converters, chances are they're pretty much shot and are plugged. If you don't see any smoke when the cars running/etc, I wouldn't worry about it. Run either a very good synthetic (mobil 1), or stick with regular oil (castrol GTX is a favorite). The GTU was the 'sporty' model, it came with a limited-slip rear end, 4 piston front brakes, 5 lug, and stiffer suspension.
06-23-04, 01:07 PM
#5
trying to build a racecar
Wow the first half of your story sounds just like mine... '88 GTU out of a junkyard for cheap, except mine never had an engine or tranny to play with.
The GTU does have a limited slip (better than the S5 version), it also has the bigger brakes, and it should also have the aero package... rubber pieces under the front bumper, and in front of the rear wheels on bottom of the rocker panels.
It had all the performance bits, and limited luxery items.... no sunroof, and probably manual windows and no rear wiper.
Check the pulsation damper. broken = engine fire
Keep dino oil in it.
Make sure the metering oil pump is working, or run premix.
Got any pics?
The GTU does have a limited slip (better than the S5 version), it also has the bigger brakes, and it should also have the aero package... rubber pieces under the front bumper, and in front of the rear wheels on bottom of the rocker panels.
It had all the performance bits, and limited luxery items.... no sunroof, and probably manual windows and no rear wiper.
Check the pulsation damper. broken = engine fire
Keep dino oil in it.
Make sure the metering oil pump is working, or run premix.
Got any pics?
06-23-04, 05:17 PM
#6
Tired of slow pistons!
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run 87? thats got to be one hell of a debate there. you're a mod so im not gonna bitch at ya cause you hold the power of my name on this board, lol. but anyways, i wouldnt run 87 in any of them. the 93 burns much cleaner and keeps the carbon build up down. a piece of that carbon could drop down in the motor and lock it up. that motor probably has that 171K on it and its probably pretty tired. it will probably like the 93 better. it will run cleaner, maybe not noticeable better, but it will run better.
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06-23-04, 07:23 PM
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I can't stop boosting!!
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Hi, My name is Micaela. *slaps a name tag on her ****** I am working on the car too! A mechanic and money giver. Everyone's a mooch,hehe. I know as much as Elnots (Landon) When it comes to our car, so any questions can be addressed to either of us, if you would be so kind! I'll get my own screen name. I swear! My email is chaos_the_goddess@hotmail.com (for questions to Micaela and hot pics 
) and elnots@hotmail.com (for questions to landon) We know the same,so dont be shy.
And! I made a site, read the front page! We're hiring!
www.freewebs.com/projectrx7/
) and elnots@hotmail.com (for questions to landon) We know the same,so dont be shy. And! I made a site, read the front page! We're hiring!
www.freewebs.com/projectrx7/
06-23-04, 08:31 PM
#10
I can't stop boosting!!
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Just email
Gimme an email address I can reach you at so I don't have to post numbers on the forum. If a girl answers it'll be my girlfriend of previous posting fame.
thanks all for the info!
thanks all for the info!
06-23-04, 08:42 PM
#11
Rotors? What Are Those?
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email me at luis_aps727@hotmail.com or you can just pm me at the bottom of this reply .....
TwEaK
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06-23-04, 11:57 PM
#14
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Originally posted by NCTII87
run 87? thats got to be one hell of a debate there. you're a mod so im not gonna bitch at ya cause you hold the power of my name on this board, lol. but anyways, i wouldnt run 87 in any of them. the 93 burns much cleaner and keeps the carbon build up down. a piece of that carbon could drop down in the motor and lock it up. that motor probably has that 171K on it and its probably pretty tired. it will probably like the 93 better. it will run cleaner, maybe not noticeable better, but it will run better.
run 87? thats got to be one hell of a debate there. you're a mod so im not gonna bitch at ya cause you hold the power of my name on this board, lol. but anyways, i wouldnt run 87 in any of them. the 93 burns much cleaner and keeps the carbon build up down. a piece of that carbon could drop down in the motor and lock it up. that motor probably has that 171K on it and its probably pretty tired. it will probably like the 93 better. it will run cleaner, maybe not noticeable better, but it will run better.
06-24-04, 12:01 AM
#15
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God damned forum and it's double posting crap.
To get that fender a little straight, just get a slide-hammer with a flat hook end and you should be able to pop it out to look almost perfect again. After sitting that long I sure hope you cranked it over a few times before letting it start to get some oil flowing through that thing, those seals must be damn near rock-hard after sitting that long.
And for ease of questions in the future (which are definatly going to be asked, they always are). The things you should do first to increase performance, (not really in any order).
1) FULL TUNE-UP. (Adjust TPS, check for vac leaks, all new fluids, filters, clean up the grounds & possibly add more, new plugs, new wires, etc)
2) Full exhaust, if you have no emissions pretty much go with open exhaust to a resonator (stainless) or a racing beat presilencer (http://www.racingbeat.com), to two mufflers of your choice (make sure they're stainless packed, glass packing will last all of a week before it burns out)
3) Intake. Cone filter with a cold air box and ducting to provide cold air, adding a cone filter with no box won't help much since you'll be sucking in the nice warm engine bay air instead.
4) Suspension! Yes, everybody wants to go fast, but what good is going fast if you can't turn at the same time!? Go with some aftermarket struts/springs, and replace the bushings, and slap on some sticky tires.
5) S-AFC & get it wideband tuned. This is proven to give up to 15hp on a stock port N/a with the stock fuel system, considering it's cost, this is one I definatly recommend (also comes in useful if you do anything else later to the car, such as a supercharger/turbo/etc)
After that, everything only provides miniscule increases (porting intakes, TB mod, MSD box, etc), or gets really expensive (rebuild & porting of the engine).
Ok I rambled on a bit too long now, considering most of this will get ignored/lost forever.
To get that fender a little straight, just get a slide-hammer with a flat hook end and you should be able to pop it out to look almost perfect again. After sitting that long I sure hope you cranked it over a few times before letting it start to get some oil flowing through that thing, those seals must be damn near rock-hard after sitting that long.
And for ease of questions in the future (which are definatly going to be asked, they always are). The things you should do first to increase performance, (not really in any order).
1) FULL TUNE-UP. (Adjust TPS, check for vac leaks, all new fluids, filters, clean up the grounds & possibly add more, new plugs, new wires, etc)
2) Full exhaust, if you have no emissions pretty much go with open exhaust to a resonator (stainless) or a racing beat presilencer (http://www.racingbeat.com), to two mufflers of your choice (make sure they're stainless packed, glass packing will last all of a week before it burns out)
3) Intake. Cone filter with a cold air box and ducting to provide cold air, adding a cone filter with no box won't help much since you'll be sucking in the nice warm engine bay air instead.
4) Suspension! Yes, everybody wants to go fast, but what good is going fast if you can't turn at the same time!? Go with some aftermarket struts/springs, and replace the bushings, and slap on some sticky tires.
5) S-AFC & get it wideband tuned. This is proven to give up to 15hp on a stock port N/a with the stock fuel system, considering it's cost, this is one I definatly recommend (also comes in useful if you do anything else later to the car, such as a supercharger/turbo/etc)
After that, everything only provides miniscule increases (porting intakes, TB mod, MSD box, etc), or gets really expensive (rebuild & porting of the engine).
Ok I rambled on a bit too long now, considering most of this will get ignored/lost forever.
Last edited by SonicRaT; 06-24-04 at 12:10 AM.
06-24-04, 06:01 PM
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Yummy
Today was a great day for Landon and I! We took the Rx-7 to the muffler shop and had two new mufflers (performance of course) welded on! Sounds beautiful!! Will take pics shortly! Anyone know where I can get interior parts? Some a/c vents are cracked and etc etc. Wanting a carbon fiber dash, ideas?
Micaela-
Micaela-
06-24-04, 09:37 PM
#18
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about the door that won't unlock a common problem by the way roll down the window and put some wedges in the middle of the door between the seals on the top of the rolled down window shine a light down to where the latch is you will probably see a broken spring thats the problem get a rod like a gun clening rod 18'' or so work the handle on the outside up and down the leaver the broken spring is attached to is the one you want move to unlock the door
06-24-04, 09:50 PM
#19
for the driver's side door: try turning the key the OTHER way. The driver's door unlocks with the key by turning it counter clockwise, passanger side one unlocks the door by turning it clockwise.
the first week I had the car I couldn't figure out wtf was wrong with it!
I think thaat all of your other problems have been answered here...
the first week I had the car I couldn't figure out wtf was wrong with it!
I think thaat all of your other problems have been answered here...
06-25-04, 09:44 AM
#20
I can't stop boosting!!
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They actual door lock on the drivers side is stuck, it won't turn one way or the other, but it's the right key. And another thing we're confused about. Why does the orange light labeled "security" come on when getting out of the car or locking doors? What does it mean?
And also, no one has mentioned a good place to find turbo's or crate motors for the car. Anyone know of a good cheap site? I'm also toying with the idea of getting a junked RX-7 90-91 turbo and rebuilding the engine/turbo and swapping it into my car. Any thoughts?
And also, no one has mentioned a good place to find turbo's or crate motors for the car. Anyone know of a good cheap site? I'm also toying with the idea of getting a junked RX-7 90-91 turbo and rebuilding the engine/turbo and swapping it into my car. Any thoughts?
06-25-04, 09:53 AM
#21
Ban Peak
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That light is the alarm light. The car has an alarm, but its probably disconnected. RX-7 alarms are faulty and crappy from what people say. Also, the drivers side door lock, can you explain the symptoms more? I just pulled my lock because it did the same thing like you said, wouldnt turn left or right, but the key wouldnt go in alll the way. Turns out that there was a piece of plastic stuck in the key shaft thing. I got it out, and the lock works great. I suggest taking out the door handle and lock, then taking the lock out of the door handle, and checking it out. It's really easy to take apart and put back together. If you end up doing that, take my advice and BE CAREFUL with the connectors that go on the ends of the rods. Keep them in pretty nice condition. You can PM me about taking it apart if you decide to, I did it two days ago. Oh, and if you dont understand some of what I said, you will once you start fiddling with it.
-Ian
About the turbo, I'm nt really good with crate motors etc, but I believe you have to have them built to what specs you want. Lots of shops rebuild or build engines, but beware, you want to use a credible shop with good feedback. Make a post in the lounge about where to get an engine, and youll get an answer pretty quick.
-Ian
About the turbo, I'm nt really good with crate motors etc, but I believe you have to have them built to what specs you want. Lots of shops rebuild or build engines, but beware, you want to use a credible shop with good feedback. Make a post in the lounge about where to get an engine, and youll get an answer pretty quick.
Last edited by Molotovman; 06-25-04 at 09:56 AM.
06-29-04, 09:00 AM
#22
I can't stop boosting!!
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>>
To update, the locking mechanism was/is still broken, we haven't dealt much with it.
the main problem we're facing now is belts and fuel to air ratios.
For some odd reason, the car is running ultra rich! We believe it "might" have something to do with the vacuum pump belt, as it's come loose for some odd reason. We've also gone through three alternator belts, as we learned the previous owner of the car had put a spacer on the alternator mount, but installed one the wrong size. We have thus fixed that problem.
The dumb struts need to be replaced as well. When going over bumps they start squeaking something awful, so my next question to be posed is, what kind of struts would you recommend to be as good if not better than the stock GTU struts?
Also, we've decided to start looking in junkyards for an old RX-7 Tii engine + turbocharger, rebuild the sucker and drop that plus a new ECU in the car.
Thanks for the information thus far, you guys have been very helpful!
the main problem we're facing now is belts and fuel to air ratios.
For some odd reason, the car is running ultra rich! We believe it "might" have something to do with the vacuum pump belt, as it's come loose for some odd reason. We've also gone through three alternator belts, as we learned the previous owner of the car had put a spacer on the alternator mount, but installed one the wrong size. We have thus fixed that problem.
The dumb struts need to be replaced as well. When going over bumps they start squeaking something awful, so my next question to be posed is, what kind of struts would you recommend to be as good if not better than the stock GTU struts?
Also, we've decided to start looking in junkyards for an old RX-7 Tii engine + turbocharger, rebuild the sucker and drop that plus a new ECU in the car.
Thanks for the information thus far, you guys have been very helpful!
06-29-04, 09:19 AM
#23
