Hesstopher

So the previous owner took off the AC. I've reinstalled everything and plan on converting to 134a but there's a snag...

There's a valve (expansion valve I'm guessing) on the high pressure side up near the condenser coil by the dryer/accumulator. This valve has a set of wires coming from it but my harness has no plug for it.

1) where do these wires go?
2) how can I tie these wires back into harness or where they go?

I live in South Texas and want to use my car as a daily, but no AC prevents that.

Mark S

iTrader: (1)

I don't have my car here, but it's probably the pressure safety switch. Will take a look at my car tomorrow to be sure. Also, as a fellow Texan, I would recommend NOT converting to 134a. Your AC will work much better on R12. AC shops will tell you you can't get R12, or it will cost you a fortune, blah blah. That's BS. You can get it all day on Craiglist or Ebay. Did a quick search of the Corpus CL, and saw this guy whose selling a whole case for 20 bucks a can. That's not much more than 134a. You'll need 3 cans to charge the system. I would get a couple extra in case you need to charge down the road.

freon R12



.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Your horn working ok? Make sure it's using the stock harness. I say this cuz the plugs are identical and near each other for the horns and a/c pressure switch.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

It sounds like you have a good idea of what you're doing but I just want to remind you to pull vacuum and see if it holds before doing any system charging. It will save you some money if you've got leaks. Also, I would avoid using any product with "stop leak" if you do have a leak and I would consider changing the oil in the compressor if it has been sitting open.

jjwalker

This, this, and this!

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...gerant-997918/

Recharge your AC with a duster can. Check the label on the duster can before purchase.

Hesstopher

Thanks everyone!

My horn works sometimes (failure elsewhere)

I've found the wires and verified them by color code. The pressure switch is plugged in.

I read about 152a and have been considering it. I'm trying to get some of that r12 off craigslist first though.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

It seems your current difficulty is getting the physical systems in repaired and ready to work. When you are ready to start cooling check out the following information.

I have R12 in my garage. I use R152a instead. I use R152a in 4 cars right now, had it in another that I recently sold. These are mostly modern R134a systems-R152a is a serious upgrade. I have used 152a in my two rx7's, s4 and s5 as well as an early 90s toyota celica with excellent results.

R152a just works better, no bull. I frequently see center vent temps in the mid to low 30's on my S5 convertible. You need to get the air temps below 40*. R134a won't do it unless you upgrade the condenser on an FC.

I'm currently resurrecting a 10th Anny to (thanks Derrick!) and it will never see a drop of R12.

Be careful of advice in this thread. 3 cans of R12 is a *serious* over charge.

Read the entire 152a thread posted above before you charge.

Good Luck

Tui

iTrader: (2)

Pull the steering wheel and clean the spring loaded contact. It gets gritted similar to power window switches, thus the similar symptom.

Hesstopher

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

I am going to change to 152a. Ordering new dryer and side tap today, only place I can find o-ring kit (since I salvaged mine from a yard and opened all the connections I want to swap in new rings to be safe) is $9 for the kit plus $8 for shipping... grrr... Any leads on where I can get a custom kit? Don't want to buy a ton of O rings I'll likely never use.

Luckily, I work at an AC company so I can use our gauges and pumps to clear and charge the system. We don't do automotive work, but r22 and r12 use the same size fittings. Guess that's one reason they changed the fitting size in 134a lol.

Thanks for the idea Tui, I'll add that to my list. Not sure if that's the issue or not. The only time the horn has worked was immediately after my rebuild, it worked for about 2 days then stopped.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Does the Green/White wire at the horn relay in the CPU receive constant voltage (if not check fuse). When depressed, the horn switch provides a ground signal to the horn relay at the Green/Orange wire. Does it? If both of these aspects occur then the Green/Red wire at the relay would have voltage and this wire powers the horns. All of these wires are found in the largest CPU plug.

Hesstopher

Thanks Satch. I'll check into it. My primary concern right now is AC/Heat, then I'll check the horn. Being from Tulsa you know that in some areas temperature variation is a safety concern this time of year... especially moving into July/August.