af61r is very nice. i cant argue abut the power numbers, cause i have np proof, and sure as hell no way to prove it now. in reality, whether it was 400 or 500 isnt particularly important to me compared to the overall area under the power curve and the acceleration of the car, and it accelerated very very fast. i will definately dyno the new setup once it is broken in, but i dont expect to start buying parts until march or so, so i'd say a fully running, broken in engine wont be until late april. i guarantee that the new setup will make over 500 peak hp, with a relatively flat power curve, as that is my numerical goal. like i said im not real impressed with dyno numbers, but you gotta have some kinda goal to shoot for, and im convinced it can be done on pump gas with the right tuning and engine build. i guess this one just didnt meet those conditions.

 

oh yeah is the port timing the same on the s5 irons?

 

I believe port timing is the same for both S4 ans S5 T2. Although I wouldn't rely on just the S5 rear iron. I cracked mine and the car was only running 10psi.. must of hit some slient but deadly detonation.

Well guess its just gives me an excuse to rebuild the motor with an even bigger street port.

Mine doesn't seem to be as bad as yours though, just leaking slightly. Still holds good oil presure.

 

Was this on pump gas?

 

Where was your WB02 sensor>?

 

What about a dry sump and a monster aluminum plate instead of an oil pan? Who was the NorCal guy doing that? That seems like an awesome mod for the ultimate in engine rigidty, but I don't know much more about it. Anyone know?

 

Can't you post a picture of the damaged engine?

 

Port timing for secondary intake ports are identical.
Port timing for primary ports are DIFFERENT.
This is all detailed in the FSM's.
The S4 primaries open 10-degrees EARLIER, so the S5 primaries are technically "smaller".


-Ted

 

this isnt mine but this is what it looks like:-)

 

rx-heven. I'm sure it would help with rigidity but IIRC it was called an anti shear plate to help the tension bolts from shearing in addition to doweling. I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong.

 

hmm...maybe i should weld together a 3/8 or 1/2" aluminum oil pan...that might not be a bad idea, dowel pins too.... and that pic isnt quite like mine, i broke a whole big chunk out. my o2 is about 12" back from the turbo outlet. i wasnt looking at the wideband, since i was going 165, i was watching the road.