165 MPH, 18 PSI = boom
#1
165 MPH, 18 PSI = boom
Well, im sorry to tell you guys but the TII is no more. I gave it the first speed test with the af61r, and it went from 90-165 in right around a quarter mile, real smooth and still pulling hard. et off for a turn and saw a shitload of smoke, looked and saw 0 oil pressure. pulled over looking for a blown o-ring or something, since i didnt feel anything dramatic. finally noticed that I broke the standard weak place- top right rear dowel pin ripped out of the side of the block. i assume the reason it broke was just too much torque, this being the first time I hit 18psi without spinning the tires or clutch.
the motor still runs even after 45 seconds or so of no oil pressure...credit that to the synthetic oil ive been using. eventually it will get a new rear iron, but i may hold out for some jhb coatings and clr port phased rotors, depends how much i like driving my beater car and how much time i have to work on it.
what is the conventional fix for the weak spot in the iron? will dowel pinning or maybe even just a torque brace help avoid this again. i would venture to guess i was running right at 500 whp, and i was kinda hoping to run at this level for a lot longer than 45 seconds.
just another sob story i guess
pat
the motor still runs even after 45 seconds or so of no oil pressure...credit that to the synthetic oil ive been using. eventually it will get a new rear iron, but i may hold out for some jhb coatings and clr port phased rotors, depends how much i like driving my beater car and how much time i have to work on it.
what is the conventional fix for the weak spot in the iron? will dowel pinning or maybe even just a torque brace help avoid this again. i would venture to guess i was running right at 500 whp, and i was kinda hoping to run at this level for a lot longer than 45 seconds.
just another sob story i guess
pat
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Originally Posted by patman
Well, im sorry to tell you guys but the TII is no more. I gave it the first speed test with the af61r, and it went from 90-165 in right around a quarter mile, real smooth and still pulling hard. et off for a turn and saw a shitload of smoke, looked and saw 0 oil pressure. pulled over looking for a blown o-ring or something, since i didnt feel anything dramatic. finally noticed that I broke the standard weak place- top right rear dowel pin ripped out of the side of the block. i assume the reason it broke was just too much torque, this being the first time I hit 18psi without spinning the tires or clutch.
the motor still runs even after 45 seconds or so of no oil pressure...credit that to the synthetic oil ive been using. eventually it will get a new rear iron, but i may hold out for some jhb coatings and clr port phased rotors, depends how much i like driving my beater car and how much time i have to work on it.
what is the conventional fix for the weak spot in the iron? will dowel pinning or maybe even just a torque brace help avoid this again. i would venture to guess i was running right at 500 whp, and i was kinda hoping to run at this level for a lot longer than 45 seconds.
just another sob story i guess
pat
the motor still runs even after 45 seconds or so of no oil pressure...credit that to the synthetic oil ive been using. eventually it will get a new rear iron, but i may hold out for some jhb coatings and clr port phased rotors, depends how much i like driving my beater car and how much time i have to work on it.
what is the conventional fix for the weak spot in the iron? will dowel pinning or maybe even just a torque brace help avoid this again. i would venture to guess i was running right at 500 whp, and i was kinda hoping to run at this level for a lot longer than 45 seconds.
just another sob story i guess
pat
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#9
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Originally Posted by Tournapart
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Originally Posted by Parastie
So...you're like the other jackass on the thread then right? I did read, i missed it the first time. Just because you're trying to up your post count doesn't mean you have to be an *** about it.
#14
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finally noticed that I broke the standard weak place- top right rear dowel pin ripped out of the side of the block. i assume the reason it broke was just too much torque, this being the first time I hit 18psi without spinning the tires or clutch.
Mine broke there too the very first time I took it to 8,000rpm at 17psi (in 4th where the tires stopped spinning). Did 9,000miles shifting at ~7,000rpm just fine prior to that.
Whether it is detonation or not (big debate) there is a fix.
You have to use the later S5 ('89+) TII rear sidehousing as it has a reinforced rib cast in from the dowel area to the oil filter boss.
Mine broke there too the very first time I took it to 8,000rpm at 17psi (in 4th where the tires stopped spinning). Did 9,000miles shifting at ~7,000rpm just fine prior to that.
Whether it is detonation or not (big debate) there is a fix.
You have to use the later S5 ('89+) TII rear sidehousing as it has a reinforced rib cast in from the dowel area to the oil filter boss.
#17
yeah 18lbs in the cold on pump gas and fd fuel pump? I would guess you ran it lean and cracked it. What did your wideband say? I have heard you should get a summer tune and a winter tune once you have a full t04.
You should have it back in no time.
You should have it back in no time.
#18
Caramelldansen
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Originally Posted by Parastie
So...you're like the other jackass on the thread then right? I did read, i missed it the first time. Just because you're trying to up your post count doesn't mean you have to be an *** about it.
Sorry, couldn't resist. =P
#23
it was running right around 10.4:1 at 18 psi last time i checked in these temps and it was running very smoothly, so i figured no detonation. i realize that the injectors are a little small, but i havent been running lean with big duty cycle. new ones were coming this month, but now i guess theyll wait. dyno was coming this month too. my guess was just based on other numbers with the af61r and others 9.4:1 numbers, coupled with who ive beaten in races. maybe not a scientific approach, but i bet i wasnt far off.
anyway, im buying a miata as a commuter car, and this summer will bring jhb coatings and clr rotors, and now a s5 rear iron.
thanks for the replies
anyway, im buying a miata as a commuter car, and this summer will bring jhb coatings and clr rotors, and now a s5 rear iron.
thanks for the replies
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hahahahahaha IDIOT:-P welcome to the i cracked my rear iron club.. hehehehe im just picking with ya i broke mine last weekend.. talk to brian at bnr hey strengthens the dowel area of the rear plates and makes a new dowel pin.... www.bnrturbos.com