aiight. i was talking to a guy in my work that came in. he owned a 91 RX7 and he was saying there's some kind of government chip or bypass. and he's saying you can bypass that. and up it to like say 9,000. or even 15,000. which is not safe. but i told him i had blown a seal and im rebuilding so he told me to get carbon and steel O rings and i belive race rotors? so what you guys think? any of you guys heard of this or even done it? don't bullshit if you don't know. last thing i need is wrong infomation. thanks guys.

 

they used to downshift when the redline buzzer turned off you know. you can buy carbon apex seals and they are good for more rpmand racing beat has/had lightened balanced rotors so you could build a motor for like 10k rpm. you have to have big ports to make power that high. look at the 80's gtu/gto cars they were revving those up pretty high.

mike

 

have you ever done this? or know someone that has because im considering it.

 

I seem to remember Shane Tofts talking about this stuff awhile back, he's very knowledgeable about some of the more top end motors.

 

you can't use carbon seals on a turbo rotary. they will shatter the first time you boost. they are not very strong, but are for high rpm. I don't even know if you can buy race rotors for a turbo car. the 91 ones are already light. you can get 3rd gen rotors which are lighter but you need the flywheel too for balance.

this guy seems to know some non turbo stuff, but it's way different for you.

 

well, i want to know who actually has done this so i can ask them. shane from sracing? also. im in a little stumble...

i have a choice of rebuilting myself which i can..
-port my engine
-maybe cheaper
-seals
-maybe new rotor housings

or

buy one from atkins for 1750
plus 300 mild porting
plus 550 core charge
plus 200 install kit

but also a 1000 to put in the engine.


my biggest problem is , i dont want to rebuilt it myself and waste about 1000 in gaskets if its gonna fail on me. but i guess i will see. im hoping atkins will send me the rebuilt video pretty soon.

 

First of all you ain't gonna rev to 15grand.

Don't expect to go past ten- five. To do that you're going to need hardened stationary gears, from Racing Beat. It's not really hard to rebuild the motor yourself. The hardest part is porting the housings. Buy the Mazdatrix porting templates and you'll be on the right path. Remember, they aren't gonna show you the best shape and size of the ports, those are trade secrets. Other than that it's pretty straight forward, and it will cost at least half to two-thirds the cost of having someone else do it. If you ef-up, you can still afford to do it again.



Anywayz, let us know what you decide to do.

 

for a turbo motor there is no reason to rev the motor to 15,000 rpm. the reason for using the turbo in the first place is to make more power at lower rpm. if more power is needed use a larger turbo and intercooler. normally aspirated peripheral port motors built correctly can reach 10,000 rpm easily but they tend to make max power around 8500. if a set of super lite rotors and apex seals were developed higher rpms and power outputs could be attained but with currently available parts this is not possible.

 

my friend has a rotary with racing rotors, 1200cc secondary and 850 cc primary injectors, I don't know all the details but his engine is made for racing purposes.

He claims to be capable of 15,000 rpm, and I wouldn't doubt it.

The tests on his engine showed that his main power gain started at 6,000 RPM (maybe 2,500 on Stock Turbo II). They tested his engine up to 10,000 RPM and still gaining power like at 6,000 so I think he can probably hit 15,000 rpm, but the guys I talked to about it said that after 11,500 RPM he risks the engine ripping itself to crap (he has 3mm seals). They also said that there is no way that transmission can handle it as well as the fact that his suspension is completely shot.

 

I've seen some dyno sheets from 2nd gen na, and even with a ported engine you won't see any power from 8000 rpm and up!! I'm not a mechanic or engineer but I've done my research on this subject, besides doing what "swoop" posted you'll need a larger/ported intake manifold and TB (that's what I've been told) in order to make power @ and past 8000 rpm.

On a side note, my mechanics circuit NA car has a red line arouond 13000 rpms!!

KNO

 

TO do an engine good for 10,500 rpms, you need:

-Hardend stationary gears
-Modified rotors with rotor gear modification to keep gear from seperating from the rotor, or Racing Beat lightweight rotors (already have modification)
-clearanced rotors
-racing bearings
-high pressure oil pressure regulator
-carbon seals
-Mazda high RPM tension bolts
-underdrive pullies
-light and balanced flywheel
-scatter shield for the clutch (for safety)

You probably need more than that even, but this is a good start. To build any power at high RPMs you would need a good port job (peripheral port would make the most power), and a good carbeuration set-up.

Most stock engine parts are good to 8000-8500 rpms as long as it is not for extended periods of time. Going beyond 10,500 rpms would be difficult as there are not many parts which are designed to go that high, mainly the flywheel and clutch.

 

wow .. a debate! well, that's true. most parts arent able to withstand anything over 11k rpm. and you would think that running at 15k would just melt your engine. what im looking for is around 9k or 10 max! but 9k is what im aiming for. and you guys know where someone did a write up about this. i would be interested in reading something like this. c mon! SOMEONE HERE ON THIS FORUM HAS DONE THIS BEFORE! or tired! but thanks guys for your post and please repost if you guys find out new information!

- GTR
" beyond the redline and not looking back "