I'm saving up for my swap right now, but from the site i'm going to be ordering my engine, they have a 13B-RE w/o tranny for about 200$ more than a 13B-T with tranny.

What are the major differences with these motors? How much harder would the swap be putting in the 13B-RE instead of the 13B-T besides the obvious motor mounts. Will it bolt straight up to a T2 tranny? What other complications might I run into?

13B-RE
http://www.jsamotors.com/catalog_pro...px?prod_id=791

13B-T
http://www.jsamotors.com/catalog_pro...px?prod_id=168

 

get ur engine from Japan2LA

if u are ordering an engine with "no warranty" at all, u are asking for trouble, actually might as well give me that $1300

it will bolt up, u need some engine mounts
search for "13bre"

 

you can run stock turbo electronics with the 13bt. with the 13bre you will want some type of EMS and will need different motor mounts. i would go with the RE but it will be more work and probably more expensive.

 

Well, either way, the motor is going to be getting send to RR for a rebuild and port work. So warranty isn't really a issue as long as the engine doesn't arrive with cracked housings or smashed manifolds or something of the sort.

and 1300$ for a engine, harness, and ecu sounds like a hell of a deal to me.


What would be the issue with running the stock ECU on the RE?

 

You can run the RE with a s5 turbo setup and a modified s5 harness and stock turbo ecu although I'm sure you will need to adjust fuel because the RE flows a lot better than a s5 turbo engine. Basically unless you are planing to build a 400hp+ motor the s5 will be fine.

 

Well. I had this N/A and lets just say its not what I was looking for.

Is their really any downside to running the RE computer vs the S5 turbo computer? Theirs no emissions here in orlando. Just exhaust decibal limit.

 

If you have an RE you would have to run the stock turbos non sequential (waste of time, they are too small). So you would really want to just get a new turbo and manifold, FMIC, etc. The RE manifold isn't designed to have a TMIC bolt up. It's really the way to go if you are looking for a more expensive project with a more powerful engine. You would also have to swap the exhaust sleeves because they suck.

Banzai Racing has run an RE on an s5 n/a harness (RE conversion on a 'vert) with a Power FC. That's one option if your stock harness and sensors are ok.

But really... don't get the RE unless you are going for 350+ rwhp with a big single turbo.

 

+1. if you are wanting anything below this point, it would be cheaper/easier to do a 13bt build.

 

Before you buy from them atleast give a chance to price match.. I can do the same deal $1395.00 plus shipping and I can guarantee compression off 100psi per housing..

 

Price shipped to LV, NV 89031?

I'm actually going to do this swap too. I'm wanting around 500rwhp. My goal is to have it ready by next Sevenstock Either way, you'll want to run an aftermarket EMS on this engine.. Like stated above, if you're not wanting some major power, stick with the 13bt. I'd even be willing to sell the engine in my car now. It's a USD S5 TII engine with all the stock USD sensors, ECU, and harness.

 

japan2la is the man for that kind of stuff, hands down!

 

Should be 200-300$ for shipping. Called the other company and they told me 1700 shipped to my business address here in Orlando(32751).

But Japan2LA, if you can sell me a motor with guaranteed good compression, I may just swing your way in the next 2 months or so instead of going through this group. The only reason I went with them was they were guaranteed fast. They told me total time from when I place my order to when I have the motor is about a week.

I want to get this motor because for the price and what it can build up to as compared to how much the 13B-T costs and the power its able to put down in the end. I don't want to have to buy a motor now, only to have to replace it again in a year or two.

 

I bought my 13BRE from Japan2LA and it ran great. 100psi+ on both rotors. I dropped it right into my TurboII and tuned it to 14psi. Then wow! I didn't think rotaries could produce torque!

I later sold the engine and car. If anything I would've redone, then I would've gotten the exhaust sleeves replaced or ported because the RE motor peaks around 5500-6000rpms with stock exhaust sleeves/ports.

 

The 13b-re I got from J2LA looked awesome inside. Did not run the engine as it was taken apart to get a rebuild, large street port TII exhaust sleeves and extra dowels. I'm still waiting on my microtech so the engine has not run yet.

 

Depending on the ecu it can be done but it is HIGHLY inadvisable

You won't get an RE comp and if you do, throw it away. You'll probably never be able to find the schematics to re-pin it and make it work. Personally, I think you're $2500 budget is a ******* joke. You'll need ALOT more than that to make a decent 13B-RE conversion. For that kind of money, buy a 13BT and run it stock until you can get some decent coin. Hell, a decent clutch, flywheel and tranny + the motor will blow your budget.

Yeah he is, I bought a tranny from him and a bunch of really misc **** that he was able to deliver fast and in better condition than I thought.

 

lol RETed quote but yeah budget way under estimated

 

How is my $2500 budget for a motor a joke? $1600 for the motor and harness, about $700-1200 for sleeves, porting, or other issues I might run into with the motor. ***IF*** I need to purchase another EMS, I can hold off on it and purchase a S5 Turbo ecu to hook up until then.

I already have a TII tranny.

You don't know my total budget for this project, nor do you know what I already have for this swap. Some of us don't have 2 grand to throw down just for a turbo and manifold.

Parts already owned:
S5 TII Tranny
Custom 2pc driveshaft
Rebuilt S5 N/A LSD
Walbro Fuel Pump (w/ SS lines)
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Koyo Rad
Apexi N1 single

Thanks for your comments and input though.



So is that the only issue with the RE computer? Finding a pinout diagram to hook it up?

 

All Eunos Cosmos were automatic transmissions.
Therefore, the stock ECU's were designed for control of the automatic transmission.
There is very little information about running the stock Cosmo ECU sans automatic transmission.
Most people (including me) say it's going to throw too many error codes to work unless you do a lot of electronics "magic" to fool the ECU.

If you're looking for information about the Cosmo, engine, and electronics, there are manuals, but they are all in Japanese.
Good luck with the translation.


-Ted

 

Ahhhh. I understand now. Thanks RETed.

So for all the hassle of trying to change the electronics, I'd be better off running a aftermarket EMS. Time to change the budget...

I just kept getting answers above saying that I should run the S5 turbo ecu, and that the stock twins suck, but no reason why.

 

Everysingle used engine that I have ever seen has come through with the entire harness snipped at the firewall making them useless (Including the one on my cosmo and the FD one I bought from Japan2LA) Not to mention the cosmo ecu is useless. So, you have $2500, great, you're going to buy an engine shipped to your rebuilder for $1700, then you're going to pay ~$2000 to have it rebuilt and shipped to you. Now you need to install it - $250 for motor mounts. Opps, you need a clutch and flywheel becuase all cosmos were auto's - I paid $800 for my Exedy twin disc used but seeing as how this is a hack swap already you could probably get away with a POS spec clutch for $300 and a Fidanza flywheel for $300 - so $600 total. Now you seem to have everything in the car but no way to control it A good friend of mine just sold his TII harness for $400 but you still don't have an ECU. Buy a stock ecu for ~$100 and then upgrade to an Rtek for $200.... unless my math is off you just BLEW YOUR BUDGET AND YOU STILL DON'T HAVE AN INTERCOOLER OR EXHAUST!!!

Granted my swap is unique and I never go the cheap/hackjob/ricer route but the total on mine is approching the $20,000 mark. Your budget is a joke -/story

 

I am nowhere near the 20 grand mark you speak of.

13B-RE with harness: $1600
PFC: $1500 or Microtech LT-10: $1300
Godspeed or HKS FMIC: $1000-1800
Exedy Clutch & Flywheel: $1500
RE motor mounts for the FC: $250
Custom Titan Motorsports Exhaust manifold (assuming I DO ditch the stock twins): 600$

I admit, my original budget was unreasonable, but I'm still nowhere near the 20 grand you are talking about. My total right now is looking to be around 8-10 for the entire swap.

Keep in mind though, you made a complete track RE. I'm going to be using mine as a DD/weekend warrior. I'm not going as deep into performance parts as you did.

 

There is a second option for a longblock;
I have 2 longblock core motors (needed a rebuild) low or no compression on one housing, good compression on the other. If you are going to open the motor(Freshenup/port/swap out the exhaust sleeves) maybe you want to start with a longblock core?

For sure you will need to replace a rotor and a rotor housing @ the minimum..

I have 2 of them:
Core longblock sold as-is $850.00 plus shipping

 

Quote on a 100psi or better compression on both housings longblock for ypu:

$1395.00 Complete longblock
Shipping to Vegas $ 165.00 (1 day delivery time)

Or

If you plan on tearing the motor down maybe you want to start with a cheaper longblock core motor?

$850.00 longblock
Shipping $165.00

Your Choice

 

You may want to take a look at our conversion, there are lots of little things that add up, such as oil cooler lines, BOP's, brackets, TII throttle cable, fuel system, etc etc. I am not saying it can't be done on a budget but, the small parts add up quickly.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm

 

im with ti tt when i did this swap last year i dropped close to 13 grand on it. its not the cheapest swap to do due to all the little minor **** that cost money.