13BT vs. 13B-RE swap from N/A. Pros? Cons?
I am nowhere near the 20 grand mark you speak of.
13B-RE with harness: $1600
PFC: $1500 or Microtech LT-10: $1300
Godspeed or HKS FMIC: $1000-1800
Exedy Clutch & Flywheel: $1500
RE motor mounts for the FC: $250
Custom Titan Motorsports Exhaust manifold (assuming I DO ditch the stock twins): 600$
I admit, my original budget was unreasonable, but I'm still nowhere near the 20 grand you are talking about. My total right now is looking to be around 8-10 for the entire swap.
Keep in mind though, you made a complete track RE. I'm going to be using mine as a DD/weekend warrior. I'm not going as deep into performance parts as you did.
13B-RE with harness: $1600
PFC: $1500 or Microtech LT-10: $1300
Godspeed or HKS FMIC: $1000-1800
Exedy Clutch & Flywheel: $1500
RE motor mounts for the FC: $250
Custom Titan Motorsports Exhaust manifold (assuming I DO ditch the stock twins): 600$
I admit, my original budget was unreasonable, but I'm still nowhere near the 20 grand you are talking about. My total right now is looking to be around 8-10 for the entire swap.
Keep in mind though, you made a complete track RE. I'm going to be using mine as a DD/weekend warrior. I'm not going as deep into performance parts as you did.
You're still NOT listening to me. Your "harness" will be unusable. Figure ~$500 - $1000 for the harness and you still need sensors, there's another $500. You'r custom Titan
exhaust manifold.... what's sitting on top of it? There's another $2000. You still haven't mentioned anything about exhaust
Or a fuel system for that matter. The stock rails are garbage and there is no way to adjust the fuel pressure, well, not a clean way at least. I spent >$1000 on rails, filters, PD's & regulators and god only knows how much on all the various AN lines and fittings. There's probably a nother grand in line and fittings. There's so many little things that you havne't thought of that are going to add up. Also, I made no were near a track car. I plan to drive mine whenever I can. One of the reasons my swap was so damn expensive is because when people go stand alone they spend ~$3,000 all total. I've crested the $10,000 mark on electronics alone.
You may want to take a look at our conversion, there are lots of little things that add up, such as oil cooler lines, BOP's, brackets, TII throttle cable, fuel system, etc etc. I am not saying it can't be done on a budget but, the small parts add up quickly.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm
http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm

Very true. If your looking at spending $4500, drop in a running TII and be done with it. By be done with it I mean leave it stock until you have some decent coin. That will probably be within your budget.
TTT, I think it be best to let the OP learn from doing the swap. Originally, I thought the costs of swapping a 13BRE in my FC couldn't be more than another $1000 in the overall budget.
BOYYYYYY was I wrong.
After the mounts, turbo, new fuel system, Motec M4, and tuning time, I was over my budget by other $5000 easy. By the end of it all, I was at about $12,000 into my swap and tuning time. And I even did all my own work to save labor costs.
Also, maybe he doesn't want to go the route like some of us do. Instead of AN fittings and SS lines, he may opt to go with rubber fuel lines and cheaper ebay products to save a nickel here and a dime there.
But after $12K, I had this!
BOYYYYYY was I wrong.
After the mounts, turbo, new fuel system, Motec M4, and tuning time, I was over my budget by other $5000 easy. By the end of it all, I was at about $12,000 into my swap and tuning time. And I even did all my own work to save labor costs.
Also, maybe he doesn't want to go the route like some of us do. Instead of AN fittings and SS lines, he may opt to go with rubber fuel lines and cheaper ebay products to save a nickel here and a dime there.
But after $12K, I had this!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
You're still NOT listening to me. Your "harness" will be unusable. Figure ~$500 - $1000 for the harness and you still need sensors, there's another $500. You'r custom Titan
exhaust manifold.... what's sitting on top of it? There's another $2000. You still haven't mentioned anything about exhaust
Or a fuel system for that matter. The stock rails are garbage and there is no way to adjust the fuel pressure, well, not a clean way at least. I spent >$1000 on rails, filters, PD's & regulators and god only knows how much on all the various AN lines and fittings. There's probably a nother grand in line and fittings. There's so many little things that you havne't thought of that are going to add up. Also, I made no were near a track car. I plan to drive mine whenever I can. One of the reasons my swap was so damn expensive is because when people go stand alone they spend ~$3,000 all total. I've crested the $10,000 mark on electronics alone.
These are good guys, they supplied my mounts and rxspeed7's I believe. There are so many people here telling you that you're in WAY under your budget - why are you not listneing

Very true. If your looking at spending $4500, drop in a running TII and be done with it. By be done with it I mean leave it stock until you have some decent coin. That will probably be within your budget.
At first, I thought I could put in the RE with the stock computer, sensors, and harness [all included with the purchase] (please read this, i DID call them and the harness is uncut, all ecu plugs still intact.) but then I realized that the cosmo's were auto. Ok, some sensors might be bad, and on top of that, I need a EMS. That's something that needs more research
The piece about the Titan mani is assuming I actually ditch the stock twins. (probably will...). Ok, note to self, need to source good price/performance ratio turbo. I don't know if you missed it in the earlier post, but I have a APEXi N1 single turbo-back for the exhaust system already.
Fuel system, thought I could use the stock rails and injectors and just upgrade my pump and lines and install a FPR. But from what you say, the stock rails suck. Got it, need to source a place to make a custom fuel rail. While im at it, might as well upgrade injectors, dampener, filter, etc.
If I'm going to be doing that, all that speed is going to need some stopping power, need to upgrade my brake system. SS lines and upgraded 4-pots or something.
On top of that, the stock suspension is just not going to do. Teins or JIC's maybe? Definately chassis stiffening, sway bars, maybe even a cage if its absolutely necessary.
I have been reading and researching everything in every post, I do realize I'm probably in way over my head, but I want something that I can actually be challenged with. I've done other engine swaps, all pistons so far. This will be my first rotary project. This isn't going to be a short project, I don't plan on only having this vehicle out of commission for a month or two.
I'm not trying to build a car that's going to be pushing 500-600 to the wheels. But if that's where this project takes me in the next few months, so be it.
I'm not ignoring what your saying and making workarounds for it TTT. You've actually helped me quite a bit with what you've said in this thread. Sorry if I've made myself sound ignorant, but I was just trying to keep this to somewhat of a budget and not spend upwards of 15 or even 25 g's on a project build. But it looks like with this motor, that's a hard budget to keep. Theirs obviously a lot of variables I forgot to think about in this swap.
Last edited by g14novak; Oct 9, 2008 at 03:56 PM.
Go 13BT.
A good intro into turbo rotaries and swaps in our cars.
Parts are going to be much more easy to get and the support for it will be vast so figuring out problems will be easier.
You'd need
Engine
Tranny
driveshaft
rearend(or hybrid driveshaft)
TII slave cylinder
TII boost sensor
TII AFM
TII harness
TII ECU
As I understand it, S5's are plug and play with the car harness unlike S4's which require rewiring.
Get your car back running first. Then start upgrades.
Go stock turbo and go for 10psi
Then go EMS and big turbo.
Everybody wants to skip the middle and jump straight to the end to big boy turbos and motors and they usually fail miserably and blame "rotaries".
A good intro into turbo rotaries and swaps in our cars.
Parts are going to be much more easy to get and the support for it will be vast so figuring out problems will be easier.
You'd need
Engine
Tranny
driveshaft
rearend(or hybrid driveshaft)
TII slave cylinder
TII boost sensor
TII AFM
TII harness
TII ECU
As I understand it, S5's are plug and play with the car harness unlike S4's which require rewiring.
Get your car back running first. Then start upgrades.
Go stock turbo and go for 10psi
Then go EMS and big turbo.
Everybody wants to skip the middle and jump straight to the end to big boy turbos and motors and they usually fail miserably and blame "rotaries".
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Go 13BT.
A good intro into turbo rotaries and swaps in our cars.
Parts are going to be much more easy to get and the support for it will be vast so figuring out problems will be easier.
You'd need
Engine
Tranny
driveshaft
rearend(or hybrid driveshaft)
TII slave cylinder
TII boost sensor
TII AFM
TII harness
TII ECU
As I understand it, S5's are plug and play with the car harness unlike S4's which require rewiring.
Get your car back running first. Then start upgrades.
Go stock turbo and go for 10psi
Then go EMS and big turbo.
Everybody wants to skip the middle and jump straight to the end to big boy turbos and motors and they usually fail miserably and blame "rotaries".
A good intro into turbo rotaries and swaps in our cars.
Parts are going to be much more easy to get and the support for it will be vast so figuring out problems will be easier.
You'd need
Engine
Tranny
driveshaft
rearend(or hybrid driveshaft)
TII slave cylinder
TII boost sensor
TII AFM
TII harness
TII ECU
As I understand it, S5's are plug and play with the car harness unlike S4's which require rewiring.
Get your car back running first. Then start upgrades.
Go stock turbo and go for 10psi
Then go EMS and big turbo.
Everybody wants to skip the middle and jump straight to the end to big boy turbos and motors and they usually fail miserably and blame "rotaries".
Would it also be good to swap coils?
And I kind of don't have a wiring harness right now. The guy I bought the car from chopped the old harness to pieces pulling out the EFI system and putting on the carb.
Because maybe I can drop in the 13B-T while I save for the 13B-RE and try to learn more about how the engine works, how it should run, and how to troubleshoot the problems.
And on top of that, I just found out I have to drive from FL to Iowa in about a month and I sure as hell don't want to do it on a blown motor. And If I try and rush putting in the RE, I'll probably end up having issues on the way (assuming I can actually finish the swap to make it drivable).
I'm not really trying to jump straight to the end, I just want to be able to put down more power than the standard 13B-T can. I'm not aiming for triple or quad rotor numbers or anything though. And a big turbo definately isn't going to be for me if I'm moving back to Iowa. Snow + big boost = baaaaad.
Would it also be good to swap coils?
And I kind of don't have a wiring harness right now. The guy I bought the car from chopped the old harness to pieces pulling out the EFI system and putting on the carb.
Because maybe I can drop in the 13B-T while I save for the 13B-RE and try to learn more about how the engine works, how it should run, and how to troubleshoot the problems.
And on top of that, I just found out I have to drive from FL to Iowa in about a month and I sure as hell don't want to do it on a blown motor. And If I try and rush putting in the RE, I'll probably end up having issues on the way (assuming I can actually finish the swap to make it drivable).
Would it also be good to swap coils?
And I kind of don't have a wiring harness right now. The guy I bought the car from chopped the old harness to pieces pulling out the EFI system and putting on the carb.
Because maybe I can drop in the 13B-T while I save for the 13B-RE and try to learn more about how the engine works, how it should run, and how to troubleshoot the problems.
And on top of that, I just found out I have to drive from FL to Iowa in about a month and I sure as hell don't want to do it on a blown motor. And If I try and rush putting in the RE, I'll probably end up having issues on the way (assuming I can actually finish the swap to make it drivable).
Stick with a plug and play TII conversion or better yet, go buy a running TII. They can be had for what yor budget is
Otherwise, add in stops to the parts store for fuel lines, electrical wires, crimps, oil, gas, 2-stroke oil, etc...
Then it can easily be a weekend job.
well after 13 grand heres my swap


i went woth a stockport re(im a slacker)
microtech lt10s ecu with msd ls1 coils
hks gd pro twin plate clutch
os giken throw out bearing and sleeve.
to4r turbo
hks cast manifold
hks 44mm w/g
custom ss304 3" dp with w/g dump plumbed in
custom fmic kit
custom oil cooler lines
s4 w/p housing
kg parts fuel rails
720cc pri and 850cc sec injectors
sard fpr
-6 ss line from tank
suckbro fuel pump
all custom ss turbo feed and return lines
banzai mounts
mmr solid mounts on everything
theres more but cant remember. i know the engine bays a mess but i live by a dirt road. should be up and running again soon took everything out to stitch weld the car and re do fuel and turbo setup. bigger injectors,bosch 044 pump and surge tank. and a new turbine housing to hopefully make more power. and get a new tuner. if you have any questions let me know


i went woth a stockport re(im a slacker)
microtech lt10s ecu with msd ls1 coils
hks gd pro twin plate clutch
os giken throw out bearing and sleeve.
to4r turbo
hks cast manifold
hks 44mm w/g
custom ss304 3" dp with w/g dump plumbed in
custom fmic kit
custom oil cooler lines
s4 w/p housing
kg parts fuel rails
720cc pri and 850cc sec injectors
sard fpr
-6 ss line from tank
suckbro fuel pump
all custom ss turbo feed and return lines
banzai mounts
mmr solid mounts on everything
theres more but cant remember. i know the engine bays a mess but i live by a dirt road. should be up and running again soon took everything out to stitch weld the car and re do fuel and turbo setup. bigger injectors,bosch 044 pump and surge tank. and a new turbine housing to hopefully make more power. and get a new tuner. if you have any questions let me know
Last edited by rxspeed7; Oct 9, 2008 at 10:48 PM.
like i said im a slacker, i haven't got around to putting it in but i did however get the paint in today to paint the engine bay



and yes i know the brake lines are prime but their getting repainted to. hers the surge tank i got. looks like this but i bought an weld on fittings and welded them straight to where the bungs are. not trusting that little o-ring to keep gas out o my car



and yes i know the brake lines are prime but their getting repainted to. hers the surge tank i got. looks like this but i bought an weld on fittings and welded them straight to where the bungs are. not trusting that little o-ring to keep gas out o my car
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
A lot of the ones I see on here with a mild streetport and hybrid turbo are only pushing like 320-360hp.
I'm not looking to port the **** outa my motor and have it pop another seal in 20k miles. I want to be able to swap in a motor that can put down decent power stock and only bolt-ons to push it to where my limits are currently.
But you've convinced me TTT, I think I'm going to start with a TII swap to understand how everything goes in and what needs to be changed. Maybe in a year or so, I'll swap up to the RE.
Last edited by g14novak; Oct 10, 2008 at 10:30 AM.
This is the nicest I've ever been to a newbie.... somethings wrong here.....
I was talking to J-Rat @ 7Stock, 564 on stock ports I believe
like i said im a slacker, i haven't got around to putting it in but i did however get the paint in today to paint the engine bay
and yes i know the brake lines are prime but their getting repainted to. hers the surge tank i got. looks like this but i bought an weld on fittings and welded them straight to where the bungs are. not trusting that little o-ring to keep gas out o my car

and yes i know the brake lines are prime but their getting repainted to. hers the surge tank i got. looks like this but i bought an weld on fittings and welded them straight to where the bungs are. not trusting that little o-ring to keep gas out o my car

While I agree and hate o-rings as well, there should be very little pressure inside a surge tank. Honestly though, I may have done the same thing but I built my own and mounted it to the rear strut bar. Where is yours going Z?
Hey G14, I've read your thread and theres a lot of solid 411 to go on. So Im just gonna put my 2 cents on top of it all..... You can do all the price researching ,thread seeking, phone call making to swap experts. But when it comes time for YOU to get this work done Who are you gonna call when you get stuck? What Im saying is that At least w/ the T2 swap its pretty much bolt up and you can ask for help from people in the area( I have tools and will help) But when you're talking custom work and you have that type of work needed and that money already spent; you want someone that s done it already . Not saying that you cant figure it out but the mathematics and all the variables you'll run into. Like the person said above you'll probably end up ditching the project and selling a non running half built(or should I say not)project for maybe 2 Grand. BTW Orlando has enough hooligans, In my T2 w/bolt ons I was more than content. People on computers that watch too much streetfire.net think 300 or 400 HP. is like the LEAST one should have. Remember our cars are like pocket rockets w/ the power to weight. Think realistically and it will DEFINATELY happen. You"ll learn a lot and feel much more accomplished as your first project. From there you'll see the RE's and 20B's... Good luck, and if you ever need tools, or some advice, or help. Shoot a PM. Until then keep us posted on the out come.-Erik
Whats going on here? 400 isnt as mysterious as you all make it out to be. I did it on a stock S4 motor with proper bolt ons. (400.5 to be exact).
My new motor is a mild street port, idles like a kitten purring and it put down 554 at the rear wheels. No monster ports needed for high HP numbers man..
My new motor is a mild street port, idles like a kitten purring and it put down 554 at the rear wheels. No monster ports needed for high HP numbers man..
Whats going on here? 400 isnt as mysterious as you all make it out to be. I did it on a stock S4 motor with proper bolt ons. (400.5 to be exact).
My new motor is a mild street port, idles like a kitten purring and it put down 554 at the rear wheels. No monster ports needed for high HP numbers man..
My new motor is a mild street port, idles like a kitten purring and it put down 554 at the rear wheels. No monster ports needed for high HP numbers man..
should have some pics up tonight of they start of painted the engine bay. i decided to do something crazy so im going with a rasberry metallic engine back and a special color i mixed up a special black with purple,blue and red pearl color called black night for the outside of the car. i prob start a build up thread in the non tech section
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rgordon1979
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
40
Mar 15, 2022 12:04 PM
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
Sep 16, 2018 07:16 PM






