are there any fabrications needed to make this fit?
are the engine mounts the same, etc???

thanks, ut

 

there is like 3 stickys topics at the top of this page, and countless others..try reading th forum before you ask a question like that.

-thanks.

 

It's drop-in, but you'll still need a turbo engine harness, turbo ECU, basically a whole new exhaust (downpipe doesn't fit NA exhaust systems), turbo boost sensor, (and an AFM?) to do this "correctly".


-Ted

 

hey ted, i gotta ? for you. I keep hearing that you need a boost sensor to put a TII engine in, but i never hear about people sellin em or whatnot. The 91 Na's come with a 'pressure sensor' on the pass. side in front of the strut in the engine bay. Is this actually the boost sensor, or is there an additional one in the series 5 cars which is located in the pass. side rear strut tower? Im just confused.

 

The NA's have a pressure sensor. The T2's call it a boost sensor. It's the same thing, just different internals.

 

You need a boost sensor from a turbo FC.&nbsp The "pressure sensor" on an NA car only goes up to "0" manifold pressure; the turbo boost sensor goes up to 14psi.&nbsp You cannot mix the sensors up.&nbsp These sensors are sliding 0-5V sensors.&nbsp The NA one reads +5VDC at "0" manifold.&nbsp The turbo one reads +5VDC at 14psi.&nbsp Can you see why you can't swap them?


-Ted

 

yup, gotcha, how hard is it to install the boost sensor from the TII...meaning..a lot of splicing to do?

 

Looking at the wiring harnesses the T2 and N/A are for the most part identical... there are only 4 wires different, they relate to the knock sensor circuit and the P/S circuits, which should be easy enough to rewire.

 

im thinking of doing the same thing, except i want to go from 4th series to 5th series, how diff are the wireing harnesses now?

 

People don't read.......

 

I just looked at my 1988 manual - you're missing the fuel pump resistor relay and the twin-scroll system.



-Ted

 

Is that people dont read to me? i have read like 50 threads about swapping engines, but i havnt seen specifics on the diff of the wireharneses between series

 

You're right, I am.

 

Actually I wired mine without the fuel pump resister relay, so that it is always running at 12V+... but yes Ted is right if you wanted to do it correctly.

There are a couple of wires you have to lengthen as well, if retaining the stock NA harness (which really is easier to replace then add wires too, as you got to pull the harness and splice it partially to the Jspec harness anyway).

And for mr. ut as I have said in numerous posts, unless you have a 'vert, you are better off selling the car and buying a T2.

You practically need a T2 for parts just for the conversion anyway.

 

im up for the challange

 

actually, i was just wondering about tha physical part of the conversion, like tha motor itself in tha engine bay. but thanks alot for all tha replies.

ut