13bre swap wont start just turns over
12-05-05, 10:11 AM
#3
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does it start up and then stall right away?? if it does then crank and push on the throttle a bit. if it does run with the throttle a little bit down then it might be a vacuum line unplugged. If it doesn't run then it could be your fuel regulator relay.
12-08-05, 08:43 PM
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you have to unflood the motor IMO.
Take out the ECU fuse under the engine bay. It is the first on in line on the left side if you are looking at it from the front of the car. Take it out. Than press down on the gas. hold it dont pump it or let it go. Turn the car over for 20 seconds than release the gas. put the fuse back in than try to crank it over. Sometimes takes 3-4 tries to unflood it this way. If it still doesnt work. Take out the spark plugs. ALL FOUR OF THEM. turn the key over as if you are trying to start the car. put a rag where the holes are for the plugs and crank it over that way to unflood it that way. clean your spark plugs with a wire brush. Crank it over in 3 seperate 10 second periods and hold down the gas pedal as well. After that put the plugs back in and crank it over normal.
Take out the ECU fuse under the engine bay. It is the first on in line on the left side if you are looking at it from the front of the car. Take it out. Than press down on the gas. hold it dont pump it or let it go. Turn the car over for 20 seconds than release the gas. put the fuse back in than try to crank it over. Sometimes takes 3-4 tries to unflood it this way. If it still doesnt work. Take out the spark plugs. ALL FOUR OF THEM. turn the key over as if you are trying to start the car. put a rag where the holes are for the plugs and crank it over that way to unflood it that way. clean your spark plugs with a wire brush. Crank it over in 3 seperate 10 second periods and hold down the gas pedal as well. After that put the plugs back in and crank it over normal.
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12-08-05, 09:26 PM
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if this is the first time you are starting the motor i would double check with your installation. you need to give us more info. stock computer? standalone? rebuilt motor? junkyard motor? spark? fuel pressure? compression?....
12-12-05, 05:09 PM
#10
the fuel pump is in the back, lift the carpet and you will see a silver plate with wires coming out, thats the fuel pump. ck for voltage at the harness plug. also double check the CAS wiring, and wire it according the colors coming directly off the CAS not the CAS plug.
12-12-05, 05:09 PM
#11
how do you check for fuel?
can you hear the pump running?
can you smell fuel under the hood?
if you pull of a fuel pressure line and turn on either the key, or key and fuel pump switch (dunno if you've put one in) does it spray fuel?
sorry for a stupid question but you swapped a twinturbo re motor into a second gen and you can't think of a way to check and see if fuel is making its way from the tank to the motor? maybe you should go over an installation check list before you crank on that thing much more
can you hear the pump running?
can you smell fuel under the hood?
if you pull of a fuel pressure line and turn on either the key, or key and fuel pump switch (dunno if you've put one in) does it spray fuel?
sorry for a stupid question but you swapped a twinturbo re motor into a second gen and you can't think of a way to check and see if fuel is making its way from the tank to the motor? maybe you should go over an installation check list before you crank on that thing much more
12-12-05, 05:21 PM
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im still pretty new with non piston motors so maybe my bit of info is wrong but it worked for me on several occassions. whenever my car isnt run or started for a while i just push start it(basically forcing it to turn over lol. probably not the best way but ive done it a couple times and it hasnt broken anything...yet
12-12-05, 05:37 PM
#13
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well I kind of figured that you could just pull off a line but that seemed kind of old school. so if i have fuel and spark than it has to be the CAS right?
12-12-05, 06:47 PM
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check to see if the tach jumps..
Best way to unflood is to unplug the fuel pump... then it will start and die if it's flooded.
Fuel pump sits right on top of the tank.
Best way to unflood is to unplug the fuel pump... then it will start and die if it's flooded.
Fuel pump sits right on top of the tank.
12-19-05, 08:08 PM
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ok i dont have fuel
the fuel pump is not turning on when i crank the car. is there a fuse i should check or something to make sure its getting power?
the fuel pump is not turning on when i crank the car. is there a fuse i should check or something to make sure its getting power?
12-19-05, 09:11 PM
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When you put the key to START, and HOLD it there, the fuel pump should run, because there is 12v put on the coil to the Fuel Circuit Opening Relay when you do that. Let the key go back to ON with the engine still not started, then the pump turns off because 12v is taken off the Circuit Opening Relays coil.
Is your ENGINE fuse good in the interior fuse box? It has to be for the Circuit Opening Relay to work and the Main Relay to pull in.
Another way to make the pump work is to jumper the Fuel Pump Check connector near the right strut tower. Yellow in color. Two sockets. Put a piece of wire b/t the two sockets and turn the key to ON. The pump should run continuosly. You should be able to HEAR the fuel passing thru the fuel rails on its way back to the tank.
If you have your old CAS, connect it to the CAS plug on the engine harness. Turn the key to ON. Lay the sparkplug wires near the left strut tower. Spin the CAS. Large sparks should appear as you spin the CAS. If you have spark then the Main Relay is pulled in and the Engine fuse is good. You'd then look at the fuel supply again.
Is your ENGINE fuse good in the interior fuse box? It has to be for the Circuit Opening Relay to work and the Main Relay to pull in.
Another way to make the pump work is to jumper the Fuel Pump Check connector near the right strut tower. Yellow in color. Two sockets. Put a piece of wire b/t the two sockets and turn the key to ON. The pump should run continuosly. You should be able to HEAR the fuel passing thru the fuel rails on its way back to the tank.
If you have your old CAS, connect it to the CAS plug on the engine harness. Turn the key to ON. Lay the sparkplug wires near the left strut tower. Spin the CAS. Large sparks should appear as you spin the CAS. If you have spark then the Main Relay is pulled in and the Engine fuse is good. You'd then look at the fuel supply again.
12-19-05, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarynemesis
it doesnt start at all it just cranks over. where is the fuel regulator relay?
12-20-05, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Is your ENGINE fuse good in the interior fuse box? It has to be for the Circuit Opening Relay to work and the Main Relay to pull in.
Another way to make the pump work is to jumper the Fuel Pump Check connector near the right strut tower. Yellow in color. Two sockets.
12-20-05, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Another way to make the pump work is to jumper the Fuel Pump Check connector near the right strut tower. Yellow in color. Two sockets. Put a piece of wire b/t the two sockets and turn the key to ON. The pump should run continuosly. You should be able to HEAR the fuel passing thru the fuel rails on its way back to the tank.
I cant find the Fuel Pump Check connector any one got a picture
I am using a tuned t2 ecu
12-20-05, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarynemesis
12-20-05, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarynemesis
ok thanks thats the one i thought it was. i connected them together and nothing happened what now