I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

i have some questions about building a turbo motor....my main concerns are can i take N/A housing and put turbo rotors in it and just change intake manifolds and run a stand alone ecu and not run into any major headaches......basically im taking an N/A motor and putting turbo rotors intake and a huge turbo on it is this possible or just a bad idea want to hear from people who have built rotarys before i will do all other basic mods like porting and and cooling mods

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

the short answer is yes.

its been done before, so its not a bad idea. search some of the threads as they explain everything in detail.

initial D is REAL!

I would only consider that if you were going to go and rebuild everything anyways.

Personaly I would save the headache and just go straight 13bt

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

yea but i can get a 13b dirt cheap so im gonna look at both ways of doing things still got a few months before i start if you find any threads please post links or give me ideas for a cool build like i said it will be my first

durtled

i would use the n/a rotors still unless ur gonna run alot more boost

MadScience_7

We definitely need a N/A->T subforum. There's a new thread like this every other week.

You're trying to build something that wasn't initially intended to be built. This means that there is a significant amount of custom work that will need to be done. Intake and exhaust ports are different for turbo vs NA. The intake manifold is not a direct fit, the bolts line up, but the ports do not. The N/A block doesn't have an oil supply line on it already. Since you're planning on running a stand-alone already that will save you some trouble, but there is a lot that goes into it.

Search around some more. Aaroncake has done one of the most complete NA->T swaps and his threads will show you how much there really is to account for.

Don't forget time=money. Sure you can save $1K on the block, but is it worth it if it will take an extra 200 hours of labor to make it work?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Buy a j-spec TII engine, rebuild it, and do your modding.

There are may reasons I recommend this even though I have an (awesome ) turbo-NA running a 6 port block and NA rotors.

I'm just saying that you should start with a TII engine because the question you asked indicates you are just at the level of a beginner, and I'd consider mixing and matching of engine purposes and parts, along with the fabrication required, to be advanced.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

cmon aaron, its not that great.

initial D is REAL!

LOL, mine is better!

initial D is REAL!

jk

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

im new to rotarys yes but i have mechanical skills and anything can be learned i appreciate the help but there no need to bash the thread.....and for the N/A rotors what is considered alot of boost i was thinking like max 20-25psi

Pele

iTrader: (28)

^ What kind of fuel system do you plan on running with this?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Well, "20-25 PSI" is meaningless without knowing which turbo it is coming from.

I personally don't see the point of those high boost pressures. Just size the turbo to make the power that you want at under 20 PSI if you want to be reliable on pump gas with ANY rotary and not have to rely on things like aux injection.

There is a bit of a reason to "bash" the thread, because this question has been asked 20,957 times before. There is a FAQ and search function for a reason.

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

ok well ill probably run like 10-12psi its fairly large turbo...but 20psi would be like all out and only running like that on race gas and it would be on a dyno just to see what kinda power it can make

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

Here's a good one.

Turbo build ideas

arghx

iTrader: (3)

On modern turbo 4 cylinders (Evo & STi, especially Evo X) you can run that kind of boost on pump gas safely on turbos that would normally be considered too small for a rotary. It really helps the torque output. But an Rx-7 is not an Evo and we do things differently, expecially because we don't have a modern reflashable stock ECU with good knock control.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There is a huge difference between 12 PSI and 20 PSI. 12 PSI could be around 350-400HP if it is a "fairly large turbo", and then 20 PSI could add 200-300 HP to that.

Let's go about this from a different direction: what are your power goals? How much money do you have to spend? How are you going to use the car?

I fc3SLIDE

iTrader: (2)

power goals 350+ money wise i would like to try to stay within 1000-2000 and it will be a drift car and a weekend warrior thats it..i will do all porting and fabrication myself saving some money

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

as stated, start with a stock turbo engine. this has already been stressed to you by many of us who have plenty of experience with piston engines(in my case 15+ years) and the more you think you know it all the more these engines will leave you feeling stupid.


and you won't even come close to 350 with that budget, you may get a stock running car that still has issues to sort out...........................that assuming you get a turbo engine for free and have a turbo chassis car already. non turbo parts will start breaking past the 250 mark if pushed hard enough(drifting can be quite hard on the drivetrain). my suggestion is find a piggy bank and put about $4000+ into it and find someone who knows how to build and tune rotaries and become friends with this person.

the more you keep saying the less i think you know what it will take to get to your goals. these suggestions have been coming from people who have been building rotary cars for quite some time, arrogance will only leave you broken and broke.

your example of 20+ psi on a rotary is race gas/auxiliary injection/alternative fuel territory, meaning you will be spending even more to push those levels while the stock turbo is only really efficient to ~14psi and 17psi is your max on a street car on pump gas. these are not piston engines nor do they use the same basic principles, a rotary will blow up at 20psi without some serious modifications unlike most piston engines(there is no ifs ands or buts about this). rotaries utilize boost more efficiently than piston engines do, which is why they run less boost than pistons and gain more per psi.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

-The plan is to use a $400 eBay turbo kit. That and maybe a nice radiator will hit the budget.
-The car is going to be both for drifting and as a DD to get to and from work and school...
-Power goals are over 700 HP.

That's usually the explanation given by people throwing around numbers like this with as little other info given.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that's pretty true. wait until he finds out how much time and cost it will take to rebuild the motor alone..

ebay turbo kit + 700WHP! lol. how about he just send me that $500 and i'll kick him in the nuts and we'll call it even, even though i will be saving him alot of headache of dealing with **** parts that will only be in the car for maybe a day.

i'll let you in on a little secret, but shhh don't tell anyone! the engine management alone is barely within your budget. the turbo parts for 350WHP will be another $1500 and the fuel system upgrades will be another $1000. now i'm still also assuming you have a full 3" exhaust system and a turbo chassis car to work with and an already good turbo motor, then you need an intercooler and piping and LOTS of time to put it all together then find a dyno facility and tuner to drop another $500 on or possibly blow it all up trying to tune it yourself.

i'm sick as **** of these threads..

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

makes me wanna cry...