ectonine

anyone got some useful information on timing a 1987 turbo 2? the block itself is a 1991 block but the rest of the car, wiring, computer, front distibutor cover is 1987. please help.

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

try looking in the factory servince manual. link located in the 2nd gen FAQ section on the top. It will give you a step thru on how to set the timing on your engine. try using the search function as well. it may com in handy -alex

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

750RPM. Hook timing light to L1 and check alignment with first mark. If off, move cas to align.Then check T1 and confirm on second mark.

ectonine

i just don't think i put the distributor in right--jeremie

NorCal90

Why do you have a distributor? I thought all American 7s didn't have one. Is your imported from somewhere?

RX7goZoomZoomBoom

He is talking about his crank angle sensor and all american 7's pre second gen had distributors.


YAAAAY YAAAAY YAAAAAY

Don't retard too much you will burn up your turbine during idle.

ectonine

i don't know what i am doing with the ******. i just know it starts and runs shitty, it won't rev past 4,000. then it just loads up n fuel and backfires--jeremie

casio

my car was retarded 10 degrees and ran like that for a long time. how off could your timing be?
if timing on a T2 is as easy as it is on an n/a, than its no problem. like they said, your L1 should line up with the yellow mark and the T1 on the rec mark. that's how it is on my 91 n/a. check your pulley for those marks. do you know how to do timing? i never had before, but its extremely easy.

ectonine

i swapped front covers from my 87 turbo engine to my 90 turbo block so that i could use the wiring harness and everything else from my 87 turbo car with my 90 engine. since i have done this it has not been right--jeremie

casio

off the top of my head, i dont know the timing numbers. i believe theyre the same, but i'm not sure (even if, they couldnt be that far apart). have you checked your timing at all? what useful info are you looking for? timing is easy to do. look at an online FSM and check the timing if you'd like. the Haynes manual simply says to make sure the L1 is on the yellow mark and T1 is on the red mark. also, your car should be idling around 750 (someone on another thread said under 1000; at a certain point, the timing changes via ecu, thus your idle cant be too high).
are your spark plug wires plugged in correctly?

ectonine

yeah the wires are on correctly. those i can't mess up. maybe just need to spend some more time on it.

casio

wires can get annoying. there's only 4, but things can go wrong.
check the timing. if thats fine, then you can move on. i dont know what all has changed since it ran before. i know swapping a front cover isn't easy if the engine is in the car. i dont know your before story and i dont know many of your after symptoms. i dont know if you did this during rebuild or what.
i do know checking timing takes about 5 minutes and is fun to play with the flashy light thingy.

ectonine

i have not used a gun and don't know how for this car. i just tried to line up the teeth of the distributor like i was told. if there is something else to installing the crank angle sensor then i didn't do it--jeremie

casio

its easy. you need a gun that uses the car, NOT self powered (so says the Haynes). alligator clips go on battery, clip (dont know the tech name) goes on L1 wire (and T1 if you check trailing). there's a little metal piece that pokes off the front cover by the pulley and should line up with the marks like said earlier. very simple.
on the CAS (not distributor; us-spec 2nd gens have DIS; distributorless ingnition systems) you'll see a little nut. its 10mm. loosen it to adjust your timing and line up the thingy on the front cover with the marks on the pulley. sorry i dont have a pic!

ectonine

i'll try that. thanks for hanging with me and helping me out--jeremie

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

Make sure you have the gear at the end of the CAS set properly. There is a ping mark on the side of the gear that needs to line up with a mark on the CAS housing before it is installed into the engine. If you have not set this first, you will not be able to time the engine properly. When installing the CAS also make sure the yellow mark on the pulley closest to the block is set on the timing pin at the front of the block. Otherwise, CASIO has it basically right for the timing if you know what "metal piece" and "thingy" refers to. He's referring to the timing pin at the front of the block I just mentioned.

ectonine

thank you very much for your help as well--jeremie

BklynRX7

Im glad someone else asked this. My car is missing and i read the haynes and have no idea what im doin. this helped me more but some pics would help, specificlaly of the CAS components that I must line up/adjust.

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

You do not need a picture. With the CAS out of the engine look closely at the side of the gear attached to the end of the CAS. There is a distinct strike mark that I call a "ping" mark on the collar of the gear (do not confuse this with the pin that holds the gear on the shaft, look closer). Just above the collar, on the CAS housing, is a distinct raised mark where you are to position the ping mark. Once those are aligned, rotate the pulley at the front of the engine until the yellow mark on the back rim of the pulley is lined up with the pin at the front of the block. Now you can insert the CAS into the block.

For timing, get the car to warm idle (750 rpms). Connect the timing light to the battery, and put the hook-clip aroung the L1 wire. With the light strobing on the yellow pulley mark, you should be able to see its position relative to the pin. With the locking screw on the CAS loosened, rotate the CAS in the direction that brings the yellow mark in line with the pin, tighten the locking screw and you are done. BE CAREFUL YOU DO NOT GET YOUR HANDS OR THE TIMING LIGHT WIRES ENTANGLED IN THE MOVING BELTS!!

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

^^ As a secondary check, you can also hook the T1 wire and see if the red mark on the pulley aligns with the pin.

ectonine

thanks jd! keep kickin it--jeremie

BklynRX7

OK i asked for pictures cause i was nto sure what the haynes manual was describing, i figure dit out now once i actually attempted it hands on. My issue now is getting ym idle down to 750 (its 1500) without it dying on me.

jhammons01

I hate to bring up old threads but I have a question. I need to know this. I am putting the pulley on the E-shaft. I can put the pulleys in any of four positions. If it were a clock and the two marks were a hand of the clock, I could put the hand at 12 and at 3 and at 6 and at 9. Which one is correct??? I am sure there is a correct way put the pulleys on, I just can't find it in the FSM, Haynes or at rx7clubs

Sorry, and thanks in advance for your help

BlaCkPlaGUE

haha, nice, you searched!

the pully WILL match up. I must have ******* stood, bent over in the engine bay, playing with that goddamn pully for about 30 minutes, trying to line it up! lol, every time I turned it 1/4 to match up the holes, there was always a bolt hole or 2 off!
The trick is to put one of the screws in, and then try and line it up. eventually you'll get it.
Also, line up all the pullys before you put it on, lol, thats another reason why it took me so long.

jhammons01

I always......always search first ask second. Are you saying that the bolt holes are offset??. I didn't look becuase I hit it right the first time.