13B-T Swap? need help!
02-25-10, 09:02 AM
#1
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13B-T Swap? need help!
I have a 1989 Mazda RX7 GTU N/A and I want to do a JDM spec 13B-T swap. I know that there are alot of things that has to be done before swapping the 13B-T.
This is where I get kind of confused at.
what should I upgrade on the FC before doing the swap?
keep negative comments to yourselves.
thank you.
This is where I get kind of confused at.
what should I upgrade on the FC before doing the swap?
keep negative comments to yourselves.
thank you.
02-25-10, 09:12 AM
#2
im in the same boat.... for you it will be hella hard cause as to my understanding the ecu for the s5 is difficult to find and expensive. you need like a n370 or something or run a stand alone..
you need to upgrade the fuel pump to a fd speculations say that it will support up to 300 hp in in a fc or get yourself a walbaro..DO NOT BUY IT OFF EBAY! there knock offs...
you can use a na trans but it wont hold up... so try and find a t2 trans then you need a na to turbo drive shaft... and if you find a lsd rear diff.. but again you dont have to.
you need to upgrade the fuel pump to a fd speculations say that it will support up to 300 hp in in a fc or get yourself a walbaro..DO NOT BUY IT OFF EBAY! there knock offs...
you can use a na trans but it wont hold up... so try and find a t2 trans then you need a na to turbo drive shaft... and if you find a lsd rear diff.. but again you dont have to.
02-25-10, 10:48 AM
#5
for you it will be hella hard cause as to my understanding the ecu for the s5 is difficult to find and expensive. you need like a n370 or something or run a stand alone..
http://www.digitaltuning.com/index.p...age=2&ecu=S5T2
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02-25-10, 04:10 PM
#8
jdm or local its all the same ****.
im a noob so dont hold me to it you feel me. but as i remember the jspec and domestic 7s is the same ****.. theres no speed limiter or nothing. also i been told to get my 13b from rotary shack or something. but to me they have expensive ****.. a s5 engine alone cost 1300. and a s4 cost 1000. you can buy them in other places with ecu wiring and trans for that much.. but i dont kno if those other places are reliable as they dont offer warrenty.
maybe these old heads will chime in and tell us where to buy our engines from
im a noob so dont hold me to it you feel me. but as i remember the jspec and domestic 7s is the same ****.. theres no speed limiter or nothing. also i been told to get my 13b from rotary shack or something. but to me they have expensive ****.. a s5 engine alone cost 1300. and a s4 cost 1000. you can buy them in other places with ecu wiring and trans for that much.. but i dont kno if those other places are reliable as they dont offer warrenty.
maybe these old heads will chime in and tell us where to buy our engines from
02-25-10, 09:08 PM
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before you do the swap, you should upgrade your brakes. upgrade the suspension if the car needs it. oohh and the clutch
things you will need:
engine
tranny
ecu
maf sensor
boost pressure sensor
either keep ur NA rear end and by a t2 to NA driveshaft or find a t2 rearend and driveshaft
fmic... or use the tmic
boost gauge
blow off valve or use the stock recirculating valve
t2 fuel pump, walbro, supra tt, or FD
t2 throttle cable
downpipe
did i forget anything?
rotary rocket 88's FAQ explains everthing. just read it
things you will need:
engine
tranny
ecu
maf sensor
boost pressure sensor
either keep ur NA rear end and by a t2 to NA driveshaft or find a t2 rearend and driveshaft
fmic... or use the tmic
boost gauge
blow off valve or use the stock recirculating valve
t2 fuel pump, walbro, supra tt, or FD
t2 throttle cable
downpipe
did i forget anything?
rotary rocket 88's FAQ explains everthing. just read it
02-25-10, 11:39 PM
#12
jdm or local its all the same ****.
im a noob so dont hold me to it you feel me. but as i remember the jspec and domestic 7s is the same ****.. theres no speed limiter or nothing. also i been told to get my 13b from rotary shack or something. but to me they have expensive ****.. a s5 engine alone cost 1300. and a s4 cost 1000. you can buy them in other places with ecu wiring and trans for that much.. but i dont kno if those other places are reliable as they dont offer warrenty.
maybe these old heads will chime in and tell us where to buy our engines from
im a noob so dont hold me to it you feel me. but as i remember the jspec and domestic 7s is the same ****.. theres no speed limiter or nothing. also i been told to get my 13b from rotary shack or something. but to me they have expensive ****.. a s5 engine alone cost 1300. and a s4 cost 1000. you can buy them in other places with ecu wiring and trans for that much.. but i dont kno if those other places are reliable as they dont offer warrenty.
maybe these old heads will chime in and tell us where to buy our engines from
the question is, how many of the picked through japanese motors left are good still? your chances are slim and get slimmer every year. follow that up with the fact that those motors have been sitting dry on the shelves for over 10 years and you have a great recipe for an engine that may last 1k miles before it spits a coolant seal.
my recipe is find a T2 and build it from there, either with a blown motor that you need to rebuild or learn to do it all yourself and do a swap or build it right off the right model and not have to worry about fitting a modified driveshaft, converting 5 lug hubs, swapping differentials, harnesses, etc. i say learn to do it yourself liberally because it's easy to see the people doing this sort of thing can't afford decent running T2's and think this is a cheaper and easier alternative, which in the end isn't even close. you do it for a hobby or just buy a running T2 and hope you didn't get hosed by doing your own tests before buying, those that think they're saving a buck aren't and even if you do get by it will bite you in the *** soon.
02-26-10, 06:58 PM
#16
well rested,buffet o food
sure, don't buy j-specs. period.
the question is, how many of the picked through japanese motors left are good still? your chances are slim and get slimmer every year. follow that up with the fact that those motors have been sitting dry on the shelves for over 10 years and you have a great recipe for an engine that may last 1k miles before it spits a coolant seal.
my recipe is find a T2 and build it from there, either with a blown motor that you need to rebuild or learn to do it all yourself and do a swap or build it right off the right model and not have to worry about fitting a modified driveshaft, converting 5 lug hubs, swapping differentials, harnesses, etc. i say learn to do it yourself liberally because it's easy to see the people doing this sort of thing can't afford decent running T2's and think this is a cheaper and easier alternative, which in the end isn't even close. you do it for a hobby or just buy a running T2 and hope you didn't get hosed by doing your own tests before buying, those that think they're saving a buck aren't and even if you do get by it will bite you in the *** soon.
the question is, how many of the picked through japanese motors left are good still? your chances are slim and get slimmer every year. follow that up with the fact that those motors have been sitting dry on the shelves for over 10 years and you have a great recipe for an engine that may last 1k miles before it spits a coolant seal.
my recipe is find a T2 and build it from there, either with a blown motor that you need to rebuild or learn to do it all yourself and do a swap or build it right off the right model and not have to worry about fitting a modified driveshaft, converting 5 lug hubs, swapping differentials, harnesses, etc. i say learn to do it yourself liberally because it's easy to see the people doing this sort of thing can't afford decent running T2's and think this is a cheaper and easier alternative, which in the end isn't even close. you do it for a hobby or just buy a running T2 and hope you didn't get hosed by doing your own tests before buying, those that think they're saving a buck aren't and even if you do get by it will bite you in the *** soon.
Jspecs are not always junk if you get it through a reliable seller. atkinsrotary.com or japan2la (forum member). No other seller though, unless you inspect it your self.
I was really new to the rx7 world three years ago when i was given a 20 yr old rx7 from my cousin.
I drove it for a week and realized i wanted more power. I did a shitload of research and bought my engine (jspec).
Being super-new, i took longer than i should have putting the engine in...but learned a tremendous amount..fast forward 2.5 years of abuse.. coolant seals unhappy.
For me, It may have been overwhelming to do a complete rebuild on an unfamiliar engine+1100 dollars), on top of a 1500 dollar engine, then have to still put it in.
Overwhelming in a sense of Money, Time, and Ability.
Money= jspec price + rebuild price + trans + axles + rear + driveshaft all add up very quickly compared to jspec engine+Act clutch for the na free trans. (This is why Karacks option is good too, for the money savings)
When you rebuild you are going to be on a quest for more power... I worked all the bugs out on my jspec, now that coolant seal is gone, i can focus on rebuilding the engine of a car i am familiar with.
Time.. for me the longer something sits, and the more there is to do on it the "unfunner" it is to work on.
Ability....get your skills up on the engine swap and understanding wiring and mechanics of peripherals before you dive into the keg.
I do not regret doing that.
My advice is to buy a jspec from a reliable seller and put the engine in. This method will let you seriously stretch your budget for suspention, stereo bs, body kit, paint job, wheels...or whatever.
BUT.......if you can find a blown t2 engine with usable housings and rotors and rebuild that......it could be about the same price as a jspec. It will also save you from pulling your engine in 3 years (only takes a day..so really not that bad).
I would not have done anything different with the way i did my engine.
Your car though, and i wish you the best.
john ny
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