This is another members project. He needed a thread started for him because for some reason it wont let him start new threads, only reply, so yah he'll be posting in a sec.

 

ok thanks again dDub.

OK heres the deal and yes I have read over everything. AND YES i know the costs involved in doing this swap. But hey what can I say. I am very temped to do it. I just have a car with no motor sitting around neways and if it dont sell in the next little bit then Im gonna do it.

The car that will be under the knife is a 1988 GTU. And The motor is gonna be a 13b-rew (duh).

The motor will be dressed as follows. Extendend and bridge ported. A front mount intercooler of course. Big single turbo. An engine managment system of some of stand alone. You know the usual. Well ill post pics up as soon as I get them basically the tear down of the fc and prep for the motor.

 

thumbs up! good luck!

don't worry about people who may discourage you. if you want to do it, then don't let anyone stop you.

 

Welp, good luck. The REW is a far superior engine, but way to much work for it to work in the second gen, IMO let alone most peoples on this board.

Post some pics and lets see whats happening here!

 

why are you using a rew over an re?

 

Good question, and I really hope this doesn't turn into an argument among other members

Any REW install, in wich someone here is crazy enough to do, I want to see pictures regardless of whether its worth it, or makes sense etc..

 

i agree, i wish you the bast man! Motor doesntmatter to me, as long as it hauls ***.

 

well the reason is i can get the engine cheaper. Like $900. the tranny I already have It a t2 tranny from what i have read i can use it and it should be able to hold the power I hope. But this also means that i would have to change the driveshaft and rarend. My main concern now is gettin the motor here i will mock it up to build the mounts and run all the piping. Also making the clutch work is another big concern. I really dont care about the costs at this point. Right now i am looking at engine managment system and what type i could use. Also a fuel pump i could go with an areomotive high psi pump would feed this motor.

 

why does everyone think this is such a hard project by simply usind a s4/5 centre plate it drops in doesnt get much easier the turbo fitment issue has been addressed as he is going single good luck dont let all the negative people discourage you

 

Pictures of the poor car that is about to go through hell.

 

I am very courious about the mounts on this motor does ne one have the pics of the mounts on a rew.

 

There was a recent post about this flip back a few pages where Aaron Cake posted a link to get REW mounts for FC. As well another member gonzz is finishing up this swap for a customer, that allready has the motor and drive line all that done runing a E6k.

 

thanks for that

 

Is English your second langauge?
It would help to use proper punctuation and grammer, so it makes it easier to read.

The center plates doesn't just drop in.
There's a lot of other things that need to be modded to make it all work.
So, I'm assuming you're using the 13BT oil pan?
What about the holes in the rear plate from the stock FD engine mounts?
What about the front oil cover which is 1/2" shorter???
Are you just going to slap RTV all over the place just to seal everything up?

And my last question, have you ever done this swap yourself???


_Ted

 

I was just gonna make a oan to fit this application. A freind od mine makes custom ones all the time. As for the motor mounts Ill wait to dig into that mess as son as a get my motor. If I can at all now. But this will get done even if i have to drive to cali for the motor for myself. But in the mean time I dont want this to be all negative like all the other threads about this topic.

 

ohh one ther ? before i go to work this morning a 20b is it ne easier to install. I havnt really looked in to it much but i can get either faily keep that just need rebuilt.

 

Geez, your spelling is barely better than the other guy!

The 20B is easier to install.
There's at least pre-made engine mounts that make this a drop-in affair.

Now, this has NOTHING to do with getting it running.
Getting a 20B running is harder.
It requires a stand-alone EMS.
It almost requires using 6 coils.
It requires moving the radiator.

If you didn't know this by now, I have write-up's for both the 13B-REW and 20B on my website.
It's in my .sig...


-Ted

 

Oh ok thank you sorry about the spelling ive been up all night. Plus Im from West Virginia so it can be expected. I will check out your site hopefully it helps I think I am gonna enjoy this project.

 

i fouend your site exremly usful and has cleared up most of the problems i was thinking about but a question still remains. What to do about the gap between the front cover and the oil pan I was going to get one fabricated but is there an easier way. im gonna get a pan made any way I am just looking for other options. Like could you take a small piece of sheet metal and place it between the housing and pan. Hold on ill draw it. And then pot what I mean.

 

ok heres what i mean its kinda dumb looking but icould work i think. But you guys can decide that.



sorry its kinda dumb looking five minute drawing

 

I wouldn't do it that way.

Personally, I would weld in a custom cross member in the rear to support the stock FD3S engine mounts.
This is probably be best.
It's cheaper and just requires a good welder.


-Ted

 

yeah thats what i was gonna do about mounting the engine i was talking about that just to see if it could help out nebody esle. Like if you use the t2 pan your left with that gap and i thought that would help. Im going in and out rigght now looking at the placement of were the cross member should be. But also the issue of the clutch comes to mind. In one of your earlier post about this you said that the clutch was a pull type not hydrulic. And i was reading your page and you said that a lightened flywheel could be used along with a automatic counterwieght. would this allow me to run the clutch the it is on the fc or would i have to find another way.

 

Nah, I wouldn't do that.
That's why I cannot help you with that problem.
The RX-7's have trouble sealing the oil pans, so why make it harder???


It goes toward the back end of the engine cradle...
Sorry, I don't have a pic, but if you look at the stock 13B-REW engine mounts, it'll be obvious.
The K2RD race car just ran one piece of flat iron (4" wide) all the way across and just add two "slant" on the ends that the 13B-REW engine mounts bolt right into.
It's a pretty simple design.
Remember to keep the cross member directly under the engine mounts.


Okay, you can keep the FC clutch you got now (Turbo II, right?), but you'll need to get a lightened flywheel and counterweight (auto, for FD or S5 FC).
This will give you a little bit of performance gain too!


-Ted

 

yes i heard about the issues with the tranny and stuff the car is a GTU but the tranny will be swapped along with all the other components to make it a t2 drive line. I am waiting on the guy to get to me about the motor. If he dont sell it to me this is gonna be a no go project. And all of this talking would be useless. I reall need some pics of a 13b-rew to see what the mounts look like.

 

Ok I am trying my hardest to getthe motor right now its is $2000 and is street ported is this a good deal. Trying to get the cash right now by selling alot of my other stuff. So if nebody needs ne 13b na parts let me know.

But back to the point. I can use a haltec to control the fuel delivery but what else can it do this will be my first dealings with a standalone and Im up to my ears in info that i dont really understand is the haltec the way to go if so would i still have the run the fd ecu. This is were it gets hard for me. All the electronics on this stuff but as soon as i work with it i can understand it.

Any suggestions so far or complaaints please feel free to reply.