13B 'Revability'
#1
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13B 'Revability'
Well, i got the transmission off, and as soon as i can get to the junk yard and pull the one i have my eye on, the 7 will be back on the road... BTW, the transmission didn't present any weird challenges, except i overlooked a totally obvious bolt and was wondering why the hell it wouldn't come off. That won't happen again...
Anyway, i was reading a post about revving these motors up past the factory prescribed redline. Apparently, the rev-limiter is questionable. Does one even exist? I know i have revved mine up to 7500 w/ nothing weird happening, but can you actually go past that on a stock 13B? My engine was recently rebuilt, BTW, with only a few thousand miles. Is this sort of behavior safe?
Thanks!
-Aston
Anyway, i was reading a post about revving these motors up past the factory prescribed redline. Apparently, the rev-limiter is questionable. Does one even exist? I know i have revved mine up to 7500 w/ nothing weird happening, but can you actually go past that on a stock 13B? My engine was recently rebuilt, BTW, with only a few thousand miles. Is this sort of behavior safe?
Thanks!
-Aston
#2
SOLD THE RX-7!
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the 86-88 rev limit at 7800 and the 89-91 rev limit at 8800 all turbos at 7800. all should have one. if it doesn't work. that just means the car was wiring problems (common) and it doesn't work..
#4
Go easy on your rebuilt motor! Yes, the rotary will happily rev past redline but you are unnecessarily putting stress on your internals. i wouldn't do it after just a few thousand miles.
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That's what i would think. The rotary seems to be pretty willing to have the **** revved out of it. Hitting the limiter is no good, in any car! Thanks guys!
-Aston
-Aston
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rev limit feels just like fuel cut. i hit it one time when i was merging onto the freeway in 2nd gear and forgot to shift because my music was too loud and i was paying more attention to the other cars than my tach. i know it wasnt fuel cut because my cats were clogged at the time and i was making maybe 3 or 4 psi.
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I thought the rev limiter was 8300rpm for the S4 TII. ...Anyway, check my sig and notice the "new" mod. That happened @ the Mosport DDT track. Only 2nd and 3rd gears were used. I was having trouble doing the corners right and downshifting at the same time. So for the first 1/2 of the day or so I ran it around in only 2nd. I'd rev it between 7-8k on the straights (redline 7k) and hold it there waiting for the corner. Later in the day when I started using 3rd, I'd still rev it to 8k on this one straight because it was faster than shifting to 3rd.
On the way home from the track it died. Blame it on that, the fact that the engine was a J-Spec (possible past abuse) and maybe the oil pellet. None the less I'm confident that no other car present that day could have beaten the engine that hard, but the point is yes rotaries can rev high and take it, but the redline is the redline.
On the way home from the track it died. Blame it on that, the fact that the engine was a J-Spec (possible past abuse) and maybe the oil pellet. None the less I'm confident that no other car present that day could have beaten the engine that hard, but the point is yes rotaries can rev high and take it, but the redline is the redline.
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Originally posted by NA_VersionFC3S
what about an 87 gxl w/ 90,000 miles. would going to 7500rpm occasionally hurt it?
what about an 87 gxl w/ 90,000 miles. would going to 7500rpm occasionally hurt it?
mike
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Well in order to rev it to 10k there are a few things that you need to do. First STOP REVING YOUR ENGINES THAT HIGH DAMMIT! There is no reason to be reving your car that high, your power band drops off way before 8k. There is a reason you have a redline. I belive that the stock motor stops making its peak power around 7k. Therefore there is no reason to go that high. UNLESS your motor has been ported.
Now to be able to rev to 10k and use it not just because its cool to say you can do that, you have to rebuild it with hardened staionary gears, 3 window bearings and usually mill the rotors down to handle it so it doesn't contact the sides. The whole rotating assembly has to be balanced. And it is a MUST to have a scatter sheild around your tranny. You might want to do some oil mods too.
Now to be able to rev to 10k and use it not just because its cool to say you can do that, you have to rebuild it with hardened staionary gears, 3 window bearings and usually mill the rotors down to handle it so it doesn't contact the sides. The whole rotating assembly has to be balanced. And it is a MUST to have a scatter sheild around your tranny. You might want to do some oil mods too.
#12
Rotary Freak
Revin Rx7 ? My power on my N/A doesent drop off till past 8k rpms. I have bolt ons and do it yourself mods with no street port. On a stock car I would shift at 7.8k rpms but I shift at 8500 rpms effectively on my 89GXL without losing power...I have dyno proof as well.
#13
fire from MY tailpipe!
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Originally posted by RevinRx7
Well in order to rev it to 10k there are a few things that you need to do. First STOP REVING YOUR ENGINES THAT HIGH DAMMIT! There is no reason to be reving your car that high, your power band drops off way before 8k. There is a reason you have a redline. I belive that the stock motor stops making its peak power around 7k. Therefore there is no reason to go that high. UNLESS your motor has been ported.
Now to be able to rev to 10k and use it not just because its cool to say you can do that, you have to rebuild it with hardened staionary gears, 3 window bearings and usually mill the rotors down to handle it so it doesn't contact the sides. The whole rotating assembly has to be balanced. And it is a MUST to have a scatter sheild around your tranny. You might want to do some oil mods too.
Well in order to rev it to 10k there are a few things that you need to do. First STOP REVING YOUR ENGINES THAT HIGH DAMMIT! There is no reason to be reving your car that high, your power band drops off way before 8k. There is a reason you have a redline. I belive that the stock motor stops making its peak power around 7k. Therefore there is no reason to go that high. UNLESS your motor has been ported.
Now to be able to rev to 10k and use it not just because its cool to say you can do that, you have to rebuild it with hardened staionary gears, 3 window bearings and usually mill the rotors down to handle it so it doesn't contact the sides. The whole rotating assembly has to be balanced. And it is a MUST to have a scatter sheild around your tranny. You might want to do some oil mods too.
Are there scatter shields that cover the entire tranny? I only knew of the ones that you put around the area with the flywheel so when/if it decenagrated(sp) it wouldnt shread everything about the car including you.
#14
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The total power band can be higher by reving further up. On the next shift you will be higher up the revs. The power beyond peak is still higher than you have at the start of your gear. eg. On a TII peak is 6700rpm or something, 7000rpm has more power than 4000rpm. Not to mention you didn't have to shift.
I learned my leson I'd rather go slower and not blow the engine. Hopefully someone will read this thread and not blow up theirs too. The redline is there for a reason.
I learned my leson I'd rather go slower and not blow the engine. Hopefully someone will read this thread and not blow up theirs too. The redline is there for a reason.
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