13b Rebuilding Help
05-04-10, 07:32 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
13b Rebuilding Help
Howist going
I Pulled my 13b out on my 626 due to low compression in the rear housing. The compression was 110psi and 50psi on the front. So ive just finished pulling the engine down, ready to rebuild. Ive taken photos of every plate/housing/rotor seal etc to try and get the most help and advice when it comes to rebuilding a 13b as it is my first.
Engine Specs:
*Series 5 RX7 Housings " Can anyone tell me if the plates are S5 ?? "
*High Compression rotors
*13B Bridgeport
*Carbon Apex Seals
*Race Oil Pump
*Full Rebuild 5200kms ago
*48 IDA Webber
*K&N Air Filter
*9mm Eagle Leads
*Electronic Dizzy Locked
*Gilmour Pulleys
The Car was tuned at 198hp @tw
*The housings look good as gold, no chrome is coming off them very very minimal scoring
*The Rear plate and centre plate have got some marking on them. Looks like some of the side seals has marked the plates.
*The front plate is in better shape.
*All 3 plates have have a small "line" of wear along the intake side of the plates
*Both the rotor bearings look absolutly buggered!! ( But only rear failled ... )
*There is wear on the "rear" rotor on all 3 corners, front and back .( Skuffing )
*Side seals and Corner seals were worn right down on 2 of the corners , front and back.
*The "front" rotor and seals are all in good looking shape
*Apex seals and spring look all good.
*Oil Control Rings and Springs look good aswell
* The E-Shaft has a small amount of a bronze marking on the rear lobe
* The rest looks like it wont be a problem
I plan on measuring the wear on the plates and rotors and all the seals, when my DTI and Vernier decide to turn up in the mail haha
So now ive pulled it down and taken photos , i want to see what you guys reckon about the parts i have , and what you would recommend me to do.
[img]https://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r36/jdawg22_album/DSCF5470.jpg
I Pulled my 13b out on my 626 due to low compression in the rear housing. The compression was 110psi and 50psi on the front. So ive just finished pulling the engine down, ready to rebuild. Ive taken photos of every plate/housing/rotor seal etc to try and get the most help and advice when it comes to rebuilding a 13b as it is my first.
Engine Specs:
*Series 5 RX7 Housings " Can anyone tell me if the plates are S5 ?? "
*High Compression rotors
*13B Bridgeport
*Carbon Apex Seals
*Race Oil Pump
*Full Rebuild 5200kms ago
*48 IDA Webber
*K&N Air Filter
*9mm Eagle Leads
*Electronic Dizzy Locked
*Gilmour Pulleys
The Car was tuned at 198hp @tw
*The housings look good as gold, no chrome is coming off them very very minimal scoring
*The Rear plate and centre plate have got some marking on them. Looks like some of the side seals has marked the plates.
*The front plate is in better shape.
*All 3 plates have have a small "line" of wear along the intake side of the plates
*Both the rotor bearings look absolutly buggered!! ( But only rear failled ... )
*There is wear on the "rear" rotor on all 3 corners, front and back .( Skuffing )
*Side seals and Corner seals were worn right down on 2 of the corners , front and back.
*The "front" rotor and seals are all in good looking shape
*Apex seals and spring look all good.
*Oil Control Rings and Springs look good aswell
* The E-Shaft has a small amount of a bronze marking on the rear lobe
* The rest looks like it wont be a problem
I plan on measuring the wear on the plates and rotors and all the seals, when my DTI and Vernier decide to turn up in the mail haha
So now ive pulled it down and taken photos , i want to see what you guys reckon about the parts i have , and what you would recommend me to do.
[img]https://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r36/jdawg22_album/DSCF5470.jpg
05-04-10, 11:37 AM
#3
Zoom Zoom Boom
First off very very nice car, its killer!!
I dont know if I'm gonna be the help your looking for but, It doesnt look like a complete disaster but you might want to change out some parts. IMO the eccentric shaft's gotta go or the pictures just look worse than what it is. But thats just me. You might be able to have it resufaced, I dont know.
Do you know if it was running lean or hot? I colapsed a few of my seals springs that way. Mine looked just like you side seals. Cant really tell if that one picture has a broken piece of a seal in it or not.
Your plates look like you might be able to have them cut within spec's. Its difficult to judge the depth of the scrapes. I would try some really really fine sand paper to smooth out the surfaces of the rotors.
Check your oil pressure regulator to see if it has any blockages from the bearings breaking down. And they oil galleys on the e-shaft too.
I might be missing somthing but from the the pictures, I think its salvageable.
I dont know if I'm gonna be the help your looking for but, It doesnt look like a complete disaster but you might want to change out some parts. IMO the eccentric shaft's gotta go or the pictures just look worse than what it is. But thats just me. You might be able to have it resufaced, I dont know.
Do you know if it was running lean or hot? I colapsed a few of my seals springs that way. Mine looked just like you side seals. Cant really tell if that one picture has a broken piece of a seal in it or not.
Your plates look like you might be able to have them cut within spec's. Its difficult to judge the depth of the scrapes. I would try some really really fine sand paper to smooth out the surfaces of the rotors.
Check your oil pressure regulator to see if it has any blockages from the bearings breaking down. And they oil galleys on the e-shaft too.
I might be missing somthing but from the the pictures, I think its salvageable.
05-04-10, 11:56 AM
#5
looks like there was a lack of oil problem and the rotor's sides made contact with the Side iron's. get a used shaft, they're cheap at 50-100 bucks new set of bearings all the way down will be about 105.( dealership) you maybe able to sand the irons down to useable, make sure you check the rotor width. VS the rotor housings at A vs B,C,and D, per FSM. ALSO, are the side seals stuck in the rotor or and you get them all out without brakage? it looks like the tips are flat near the corner seals.
05-04-10, 12:15 PM
#6
In the shade
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am an amateur at building engines still, but have you actually measured the step wear on that iron? I would just clean everything really good again and take ALL of the measurements and compare them to the specs in the book. It's the only way to really know in my opinion. Plus you'll learn a lot no matter if they are in spec or not. Did you buy one of the dvds? That really helped me a lot, I bought the rotary aviation version, but there are others too.
Trending Topics
05-04-10, 07:04 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First off very very nice car, its killer!!
I dont know if I'm gonna be the help your looking for but, It doesnt look like a complete disaster but you might want to change out some parts. IMO the eccentric shaft's gotta go or the pictures just look worse than what it is. But thats just me. You might be able to have it resufaced, I dont know.
Do you know if it was running lean or hot? I colapsed a few of my seals springs that way. Mine looked just like you side seals. Cant really tell if that one picture has a broken piece of a seal in it or not.
Your plates look like you might be able to have them cut within spec's. Its difficult to judge the depth of the scrapes. I would try some really really fine sand paper to smooth out the surfaces of the rotors.
Check your oil pressure regulator to see if it has any blockages from the bearings breaking down. And they oil galleys on the e-shaft too.
I might be missing somthing but from the the pictures, I think its salvageable.
I dont know if I'm gonna be the help your looking for but, It doesnt look like a complete disaster but you might want to change out some parts. IMO the eccentric shaft's gotta go or the pictures just look worse than what it is. But thats just me. You might be able to have it resufaced, I dont know.
Do you know if it was running lean or hot? I colapsed a few of my seals springs that way. Mine looked just like you side seals. Cant really tell if that one picture has a broken piece of a seal in it or not.
Your plates look like you might be able to have them cut within spec's. Its difficult to judge the depth of the scrapes. I would try some really really fine sand paper to smooth out the surfaces of the rotors.
Check your oil pressure regulator to see if it has any blockages from the bearings breaking down. And they oil galleys on the e-shaft too.
I might be missing somthing but from the the pictures, I think its salvageable.
Haha cheers , i havent heard any bad comments about the car so far , even thou it is 116dB at idle =D
Yeah i think the e-shaft looks worst than it is. Im sure with a polish it will come up fine. but will measure it
The car ran pretty rich all the way through the rev range. ( A/F Gauge )
Whats usually cause the bearing to poop the bed like they did? Detonation/Pre Ignition ? The side seals and corners seals were pretty much worn right down to the rotor on one side
05-04-10, 07:09 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-04-10, 07:14 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks like there was a lack of oil problem and the rotor's sides made contact with the Side iron's. get a used shaft, they're cheap at 50-100 bucks new set of bearings all the way down will be about 105.( dealership) you maybe able to sand the irons down to useable, make sure you check the rotor width. VS the rotor housings at A vs B,C,and D, per FSM. ALSO, are the side seals stuck in the rotor or and you get them all out without brakage? it looks like the tips are flat near the corner seals.
? ... And yeah the side seals on 2 of the sides were worn right down , but i got them out along with the corner seals
05-04-10, 07:24 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In NZ we have 91 , 95 , and 98 Octane. When i picked the car up i put 200ml to 10L of fuel. The car had a ruff idle but when sweet as. I dropped back the premix to 110ml per 10L of fuel. After driving the car around abit in my home town , i put 95octane in a 110ml. And not so long after the failure happened. I dunno if its connected but people out there would have more idea on why the engine has gone bad. Is the Thermal Pellet also referred to the "bypass valve and spring " that comes out of the front of the e-shaft?
05-04-10, 07:54 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gisborne
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Under PSI
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
19
09-23-15 11:47 PM
mulcryant
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
10
09-09-15 05:24 PM
