nyt

iTrader: (1)

Almost done swapping a 13B-RE into my FC. This was such a headache I should have just stuck with an s5 engine. I particularly like the bit where the heater core hose comes right out into the throttle body where the cables attach.

No real point to this, just venting.

DaBrkddy

Ultimate swap IMHO

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

it was only pointless of swapping if you keep it under 450hp, shoot for 600 son!

nyt

iTrader: (1)

Almost ready to fire it up. Still not sure the best way to approach the intake piping here, and also need to figure out the throttle cable / cruise control situation.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

PT67bb not on there for show

Relisys190

iTrader: (4)

Lookin' good!

Mlammert

Nice looking swap, let us know when you get her running. What exhaust manifold are you running?

nyt

iTrader: (1)

iirc, the HKS cast manifold

Mlammert

That looks like the GReddy one to me, I think I can almost see the logo cast into it. I really like how far up it pushes the turbo, thanks.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

Its def the hks, not greddy

Mlammert

Didn't know HKS made one like that. Thanks for the correction.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

I'd like it more if it raised the turbo a bit more. I had to cut the lower coolant pipe, and the rubber hose is touching the compressor housing.

Time to go outside in the below freezing weather and try to get this starter working. Got the car ready to start yesterday and apparently the starter didn't want to engage after sitting for 10 years.

Jaiyurai

iTrader: (30)

The 13BRE isn't that different from the 13BT and REW motors. I had one in my car and if you know what to do, then you can use many of the stock and aftermarket parts from the BT/REW engines.

For the throttle cable, you can use a S5 non-turbo cable. It'll have a pretty sharp bend coming out of the firewall, but I've seen it work. I used the S5 TII throttle cable but looped backwards, compared to the OEM direction. Worked fine.

For the intake piping, either upgrade to the FD throttle body and get a Greddy throttle body elbow. Or stick with the 13BRE throttle body and use the OEM elbow. Have a welder make a pipe for what you're missing.

The rest is straight forward.

Here was my setup on my old S5 TII:

nyt

iTrader: (1)

I can fabricate the piping, I'm just not sure how I want to do it yet. Probably going to try to keep it like I had before the 13b-re. the PS makes it a pain

got the starter fixed, but this wolf ems does not want to work with ref/sync mode even though i verified signal is good at the ecu.. ugh.



old setup

nyt

iTrader: (1)

brought pickups in closer to the teeth and am in business. car is running. Unfortunately, have a small oil drip from the tstat in the cooler and my leading ignition isn't firing....

tracked it down to the 6a.. pulled it apart and instantly smelled the magic smoke that was left inside... replacement gets here in a couple days.

Mlammert

I have one in the same spot. I replaced the crush washer several times only to discover a hairline crack in the bung welded to the oil cooler body the big bolt/thermostat holder goes in. Hows the 13B-RE lower intake manifold compare to the S4/5 one? It looks very similar but I'm guessing the runners are larger?

nyt

iTrader: (1)

larger runners. the port size difference is huge. This is 13BT vs 13B-RE. The 13BT is even ported out a bit, but they're still dwarfed.

Mlammert

holy **** that really is something!

nyt

iTrader: (1)

msd 6a arrived. I also got one of the ebay worley oil coolers...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192722274757

doesn't seem awful, though I'm concerned about using an o-ring without a proper gap to seal this. Came with a t-stat.

Will post more once I have it on the car, hopefully tomorrow.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

so after I got some crush washers, it turns out the threads on this are 16x1.5 instead of 18x1.5

have to order a tap as all I have are thread chasers in that size.

Dak

Well that settles it. I had already thought I wanted my next engine to be a REW but after seeing the difference in port size I think my mind's made up. I know that is the RE and not the REW but REW's seem easier to find now even though the RE would be easier to mount( from what I read anyway)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the RE is easier to mount for sure, and the FC cas, water pump, and wiring harness go right on and work, so its a nice swap. FD is much harder, because everything fits less well.

the port is misleading, the RE ports are angled angled up to give more room for the turbos, like the FD. so instead of looking at a vertical slice through the port, its at an angle, it makes them look enormous, but its not a huge difference

Dak

I hope to be on a standalone by the time I need another engine anyway but does this mean if I'm running my 6-port on say a Haltech elite the harness I'm using would swap right over to the RE? I had figured I might just get the PnP FD harness from Haltech when the time came to swap. I think the stock twins will work fine for my power goals so It'll be one of these two engines regardless, though unless I just find a smokin' deal on an RE I'd say I'll stick with the REW.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

This swap was definitely a PITA for me as well... My old convertible with the swap. This was about 10 year ago, but I'm pretty sure I used an NA throttle cable. No cruise control though. Same exhaust manifold with a 60-1 turbo.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

I had to swap some connectors on the harness... mainly the cas since my s4 cas was ground down for the wolf and I wanted to use the 13b-re cas with all the teeth in ref/sync mode. You can move your water temp sensor over, but mine got damaged so i used the 13b-re sensor which has a different plug. There really isn't much need to change anything on the harness now that I think about it as long as you have your old parts to move over...

oh, the TPS.... you'll need to change the connector on that for sure. Not a big deal.