hello, i have an 1986 N/A. so i want to put in an rteck7 ECU upgrade and put in 550cc injectors in, however what i need to know, is there any tuning i am going to have to do after putting those in? and if so what?

 

I'm all for going standalone, but why do you think you need to change the injectors?

 

because bigger is better.

 

^^^
Not only is bigger better. Bigger means more HP

 

N/A's gag on the 460's ..so if you think that putting in 550's is gonna make it run better then you will honestly be the first to accomplish that.On a stock engine.
The only real way that the car will run better with 550's is if you add a Turbo engine to that.
Not ONE Rtek upgrade that is an N/A version requires the 550's.

LINK:http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7

 

So can I buy the stage 2 with my car being stock in preparation of moding the car... it labels it as moderately modded to heavily.

 

If you are going to an aftermarket Ecu then you should get something really flexable.(like a Haltech..etc so that you can reprogram the whole thing to be Compatable with the new setup).

The Rtek will come in an NA form..also a TII form.
now if you just mod the car as an Na that ECU is fine..but when you go to swap out to a TII then you gotta buy another ECU...WHY pay for 2 ECU's?

 

What ecu would you recommend?. I've found a T2 swap for 500 bucks but it has a blown apex seal.

 

you're going about things the wrong way, spending the bare minimum leaves you with a bare minimum result or very expensive problems to keep repairing due to minimalist preparation.

there's too many ECU options to list, the best answer is to find out who you plan to help you with the installation or do the actual engine tuning. their experience will give you a direction to go in. the microtech ECUs are one of the easiest to install and tune but also the most clunky with flexibility. haltechs like the sprintRE take a little more work to install and set up and also tune but give much more flexibility.

there is also the megasuirt ECUs which you can buy plug n play kits but they are also probably the most complex to set up and have options that can confuse you due to the many many arrangements that can be modified with the setup.

the Rtek trails the pack, it has the least user friendly tuning methods in dealing with the palm pilot and also has the least adjustability factor. the only real benefit it has is it is a direct drop in ECU that comes with a "factory" tune on it so you can install it and drive off without noticing much issue without initial tuning.

if you had a series 5 car there would be a few more options like the adaptronic and apexi powerFC.

if you want minimalist you can get by with an SAFC for a fraction of the cost of even the Rtek, it just doesn't have a few of the options like fuel cut deflood, injector staging, injector resolution and timing corrections. if you know what you are doing though, an SAFC can net nearly the same power as the Rtek as i've tuned cars with an SAFC that have netted the same power as true standalones, but the SAFC is much more limited in potential without having to do physical adjustments on the car.