13B FI NA motor ignition problem???
08-09-05, 08:01 PM
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13B FI NA motor ignition problem???
Hi, I was hoping someone here might be able to help me...
I swapped an 87 13b FI motor into another car. I got it running (amazing because the wiring is a nightmare and i thought it was just gonna self destruct). it ran several times, but now it won't even pop. the tach wont even wiggle and it no longer has any spark. i swapped out both coil assemblies, the resistor block, the computer and the distributor part. I'm ready to scrap this project HAHAH
Anyway, do you have any idea what may have gone bad or where my problem might be? I'm at a complete loss any any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I swapped an 87 13b FI motor into another car. I got it running (amazing because the wiring is a nightmare and i thought it was just gonna self destruct). it ran several times, but now it won't even pop. the tach wont even wiggle and it no longer has any spark. i swapped out both coil assemblies, the resistor block, the computer and the distributor part. I'm ready to scrap this project HAHAH
Anyway, do you have any idea what may have gone bad or where my problem might be? I'm at a complete loss any any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
08-09-05, 08:29 PM
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I'll post the same response I put in the email to you, in case you read this first, and in case anyone runs across the same problem someday..
First I need to know how its wired.
Are you using the stock ECU? It's definately related to the coils,
and there's only two things needed for those to work (well, 3 if you
count energy). you've got your connection of four wires to the Crank
Angle Sensor, they connect directly to the ECU (There's one connector
in there, but the wires are straight runs), and then there's the
connection to your coils.
Your trailing coil has 6 wires going into it. two Black/Yellows, get
12V directly from the main relay (which gets its power directly from
the battery), and three wires going to the ECU (Blue/yellow,
Brown/Yellow, and Blue/Red). The remaining wire (Yellow/blue) is the
wire that runs your tachometer, and it connects directly to your gauge
cluster.
Your leading coil will only have two wires going into it, one
black/Yellow (Power, just like with the trailing coil), and your
Green/Yellow that goes directly to the Ecu. If all of these wires
are good (pay careful attention to your wires goign to the ECU, check
contiuity between the coil and the ECU), check the grounds. Coils
ground through the metal bracket that they're mounted to, the one that
gets screwed down to chassis. If that is loose, or just screwed down
onto paint, you may have to sand that a bit, or tighten it up.
Hope this gets you on the right path
All of the information i
taken from the Factory Service Manual (which I'm sure you have,
right?), The 50_wiring_diagram section, page 50-28. I also had a
bit of a wiring nightmare with mine, when I made my own wiring harness
to run it from the Megasquirt. It's a lot easier if you can deal with
it, one system at a time
Send me over some pics of the MG, I love those cars, and I've always
wanted to drop a rotary into one.
Oh, hit me up on AIM if it would be easier.. My AIM name is GreatLeper
Good luck!
~Wonko
Are you using the stock ECU? It's definately related to the coils,
and there's only two things needed for those to work (well, 3 if you
count energy). you've got your connection of four wires to the Crank
Angle Sensor, they connect directly to the ECU (There's one connector
in there, but the wires are straight runs), and then there's the
connection to your coils.
Your trailing coil has 6 wires going into it. two Black/Yellows, get
12V directly from the main relay (which gets its power directly from
the battery), and three wires going to the ECU (Blue/yellow,
Brown/Yellow, and Blue/Red). The remaining wire (Yellow/blue) is the
wire that runs your tachometer, and it connects directly to your gauge
cluster.
Your leading coil will only have two wires going into it, one
black/Yellow (Power, just like with the trailing coil), and your
Green/Yellow that goes directly to the Ecu. If all of these wires
are good (pay careful attention to your wires goign to the ECU, check
contiuity between the coil and the ECU), check the grounds. Coils
ground through the metal bracket that they're mounted to, the one that
gets screwed down to chassis. If that is loose, or just screwed down
onto paint, you may have to sand that a bit, or tighten it up.
Hope this gets you on the right path
All of the information itaken from the Factory Service Manual (which I'm sure you have,
right?), The 50_wiring_diagram section, page 50-28. I also had a
bit of a wiring nightmare with mine, when I made my own wiring harness
to run it from the Megasquirt. It's a lot easier if you can deal with
it, one system at a time
Send me over some pics of the MG, I love those cars, and I've always
wanted to drop a rotary into one.
Oh, hit me up on AIM if it would be easier.. My AIM name is GreatLeper
Good luck!
~Wonko
08-22-05, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the responses - Fuses are all good, I also tested the CAS and the 2 sets of coils I have - they're all fine. the grounds are good - the only thing really left is the computer. I did swap it out with an 'untested' one and the problem persists. Is there any way to test the computer?? If I have something wired wrong that's blowing the computer I'd really like to find that before I waste any other computers... The car did start several times and ran ok before this problem started. ARRRGGHHHHHHHH!! I'm trying to find someone locally w/ an 86 87 non turbo car that i can plug my computer into to test. I was offered a good computer, but don't want to risk blowing it if i have something wired wrong. The strange thing is it ran several times before this whacky problem so if I had it wired wrong, the computer should've popped right away.
08-22-05, 05:16 PM
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One thing I forgot to mention in my post is the +5V reference voltage that has to to come out of the ECU.. the easist place to check that would probably be the brown (brown/white? brown/possibly somethign) wire that goes over to your boost sensor (square black box with a vacuum line and a 3 or 4 wire connector). See if your ECU is outputting the required reference voltage...
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08-22-05, 11:58 PM
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Please excuse this if it's a stupid question, but does a non-turbo motor have a boost sensor? where would it be located? i tried to keep everything as stock as possible and I will try to check this.
08-23-05, 12:13 AM
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boost pressure sensor same thing really, well not really, the na have a pressure sensor doesn't read boost and turbos have the boost sensor, same location in front of pass strut tower, 4 pin conector with a vacum line going into it, should have a label with pressure sensor on it also, dimensions are about 2.5 in by 1n and about 1in thick
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