Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Long story short, I'm doing the Taurus alternator swap, and I am completely unable thus far to figure out how to swap the serpentine pulley on it to a slightly larger V-belt pulley. There's lots of information on ways to do mounts, but information seems lacking on the pulley? There seems to be something I'm missing.

Unfortunately when asking auto shops and mechanics around here I get blank stares and am told that V-belt pulleys are really rare and generally that I'm crazy.

Is there anything or anywhere specific someone can point me to? A part number perhaps that I can rattle off at Napa or somesuch to get them to order it for me?

Thanks for the help!

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

So you have read some threads, parttially.

What do those threads say about it?

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh... Wait. Haha, it's not that it's not said, I just didn't know what an 'SBC' was. I apologize.

Now from some research, I know. You wouldn't happen to know more specifically what small block chevy engine/vehicle the alternator was from so that I could call up a junkyard to search?

Does it really just fit? I know that alternators aren't radically different but it's slightly amusing that a pulley from a Chevy alternator would fit right on a Ford Alternator shaft.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

When I did my Taurus alternator swap, I brought my S4 alternator pulley to Napa... The guy brought one out the same size that still fit around the Taurus shaft. He gave it to me for free. I don't have a part number or know where he got it from. Try something similar, I suppose.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

I'll definitely try that as well, I was under the impression though that I wanted to get a pulley that was a little larger?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I use the same size pulley, with the stock belt and unmodified alternator tension bracket. It's been working just fine.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Why would you want a pulley that was larger?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I believe if you go with a slightly larger pulley, you should use a slightly larger belt.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

When I did my Taurus swap, they had a bucket full of old pulleys, washers and spacers. He just let me take whatever I needed. Ask around at parts stores.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

I thought I remember reading that you wanted a slightly larger pulley to avoid higher RPMs in the alternator when the engine is at higher RPMs. But then again that might underdrive it as well...

We've already seen though that I'm not so great at reading lately so disregard that haha.

Anyway, I got directed to a small alternator shop that wasn't too far away and the mechanic there swapped it to a V-belt pulley for me no problem.

Unfortunately run into other problems now. I'll post my problem here but feel free to suggest whether I should take it to a different or new thread.

Anyway, got it all wired up, added 4 gauge negative and charging wires to the alternator as per some of the guides, got the pulley aligned, fired up the car and... I'm getting 18-19 volts, according to my multimeter.

Now this is exceptionally frustrating seeing as this is a large part of why I changed alternators in the first place, in addition to the stock one being wimpy. The alternator tested just fine, though I'm planning on getting it tested again just one more time as I did have some wiring issues at first and it's not impossible I messed something up inside it.

It shouldn't be the battery as it's a pretty new battery but I guess this could be a possibility? And lastly maybe there's something else in the car that can control voltage that is messed up? I thought voltage was controlled by the alternator but I'm no wizard at this.

Suggestions and help are most welcome and appreciated.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

T'aint the battery...no way, no how.
Miswired or faulty voltage regulator, methinks.

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Is there something that could be wrong with the car that could be popping voltage regulators? This is the third alternator in a row. Not only that, but the last alternator (stock S4 RX7, albeit from a T2) was overvolting in the car, yet testing fine at the O'Reilly's testbed.

3 in a row just seems too much to be coincidence.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Definitely check the wiring to and from the engine fuse box, and the wiring to the alternator.

philiptompkins

iTrader: (4)

I meant to try to update that thread, I just bought this: http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ord-1g-2g.aspx

Also, Oriely sells the pigtail that goes into the back on the tauras ALT for easy wiring!

Anakhoresis

iTrader: (1)

Haha, well my suspicions were confirmed, turns out my multimeter was reading wrong. Got a new one, appears to read correctly. However, I'm still getting 15.3 volts, but according to the shop this is still within spec for this alternator so it isn't actually broken. It still 'passes' all tests. I'm assuming 15.3 volts is still something I want to havoid? Unfortunatley I think I lost my junkyard receipt but might be able to find it to grab a different one.