Here is the original thread, guys

Not to bring this thread back from the dead, but I've been working on this swap on my S4 TII. For the time being I'm using the chain link method mentioned earlier. Not really ideal but works until my friend with the welder gets some more gas. Earlier it was said that the 130A alt will not fit with the stock TMIC. Here you can see that it does indeed fit, it is just close. There is about 1mm of space between the alt housing and the lip of the TMIC. If you get a shorter belt you could have more clearance but the belt I have on here is the stock size +1/2" and it puts the alternator about halfway up the adjustment mount.

http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/1520/1122091546a.jpg

I'm still doing the wiring portion since its going on an S4 but this is just to show it will fit under the TMIC. It doesn't look like it will clear my Tanabe strut tower bar though.

I know it's a thread resurrection, but has any of the 130 amp guys had issues with their Taurus alts yet? I just went with a 3.8L Taurus E-fan and Alt and it is kicking so much ass now. ATM, the Taurus fan is wired always on low speed with the ignition (with proper relay of course:lol:) and hi-speed isn't connected yet

But what worries me is that on a cold start, the in-dash meter was behaving like a tachometer at redline by bouncing off the halfway point between the 14v mark and 16v mark (I'm assuming it'd be 15v there). According to my toasted multimeter, it was reading 16.8-17.2 at the battery but I highly suspect the meter since it nearly caught fire the night before. With all this in mind, I was trying to siphon power off by holding both window switches down, heater maxed out, stereo and headlights on. That got it down to 14v according to the fried meter, but I stupidly didn't check the in-dash gauge.

This is from the Taurus Car Club of America for a 4th Generation Taurus, but should help everyone understand how a Taurus alt is wired. Here's a link to the original thread on there: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/lofi...hp/t54559.html
After the car was fully warmed up it was behaving as the OP mentioned with anything over 1000rpm giving me a solid 14 volts no matter what I threw at it, according to the in-dash gauge. Man, these things are powerful!!!

Update on my issue: Got it fixed now, here's the wiring schematic for a S4 car getting a Taurus Alt:

A terminal (Yellow Wire): to Battery.
S Terminal: Loops back to single pin connector on alt
I Terminal (Green wire): to a 12v switched ignition source (horizontal pin on s4 alt connector is a good spot)

If you mix up the A and I terminals like I did before, it'll put the Taurus alt in panic mode because it'll only sense 12 volts instead of the actual output. So make sure you get these right. Otherwise, you'll blow the main fuse at best, or fry a lot of your wiring and electronics, if not catch the whole car on fire. As mentioned in my previous post, a taurus alt in panic mode will kick out 16+ volts easily.

Not ever one to rag on anybody.........but the (I )wire should go to the White/Black wire on the series four plug.......which is vertical??? not horizonal imho. White/Black is the excitation for the alt and also determines how the warning light cluster works when key is put to just ON.

I've been thinking about making one of those brackets made from angle iron. Just seems something that might be interesting to make. Hard for me to justify it though. I've 3 spare alts I've put new regulator in and are good to go if one of my cars alt goes out.

Even went to HomeDepot and spent waaaay too much money for a couple of feet of angle iron that I could have bought from Online Metal Store (actually located in my city) for much less dough. Lazy. Longer drive to that outfit. A good five miles further. Amazing how over priced the angle iron at HomeDepot is. A convience thing I guess. Like 7-11.

And the 'S' wire goes to the battery/ fuse block. It is the voltage sensing wire. I guess you can loop it to the 'A' terminal and have the RX7'equivalent of a one-wire alternater set up.

Home Depot=Kwiky Mart,:icon_tup:

Jackhild, which SBC alternator from Jegs are you using? I want the input shaft to match perfectly to my FC, but I'm not sure which diameter to get. I want the alternator to produce good amperage at idle, but not burn out during spirited driving.

Here is a link to Jegs with some SBC alternator pulleys:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-...46077/10002/-1

Thanks for your help!

The pulley I used was exactly the same diameter as the RX7 alternator. I say exactly, I did not mic the OD of the pulley, but the visually and physically matched. The pulley came off a core return, sort of. :)

There is no wear showing on either side of the pulley.

I am now coming up on 3 years on this same alternator. I have put about 14,000 miles on that good old taurus alt. I hit 8000 rpm at least once nearly every time I drive the car. Not a glitch, not a squeak, just 14.1 volts.

Anyone worries that this Ford Taurus Alternator can't survive on a 'high rpm' engine should find something else to worry about.

Sorry to bring this zombie thread back to life but did anyone ever find out what pulley works with this?

Zombie thread? With 16,000 views?

I'm wounded.:(


The pulley that fits is from a Small Block Chevy alternator. The shaft size is perfect. Also I believe that a dual pulley for an FD alternator will fit.

When wounded..........first thing is to stop the bleeding. Learned that in the Army.

So that's what SBC stands for. See the attachment below.

Sorry guess I mixed up the years on the last post.

Thanks for the info I couldn't figure out SBC. Now I feel dumb. Lol

SBC is kinda a dirty word around here...

I'm giving this option a shot since I picked up a reman 95 taurus 3.8 alternator for dirt cheap. Its is going to my N/A RX-3 so I hope it can handle 10K RPM.

1. What size pulley is recommended as FB-FC pulleys are approx 1.75" (inside diameter) versus taurus 2.5"? V-belt part # also.

2. Jump stator plug with "S" wire. "A" wire (yellow/black) needs constant 12V just like the S5. "I" wire (green/red) volt meter or whatever.


Attachment 720699


3. Just want to confirm the following and advise if any grinding is needed (I'm sure I will find out when I start working on it but upfront info is greatly appreciated).
Attachment 720700

Belt adjusted side
Attachment 720701

Here is wiring.

Pulley is same size as the Mazda factory alternator. You need to specify a Small Block Chevy alternator pulley. Shaft size is same as the ford, rotation will be same as Mazda.

Good Luck

Friends, jackchild has lead you to the crest of a slippery slope.
Every reasonable response and hi-rez picture lures you to lean a little further, till before you know it, you're sliding.

It's slow and easy at first, you hardly realize you've imperiled the very soul of your RX.
It's only an alternator and anyway, didn't Ford own part of Mazda or summit?

So now there it is, clinging to the proud rotary like Selene atop Notre Dame...a Taurus alternator.
In Heaven, an angel has lost an apex seal.

You know what's next?
Scientists have a term for the Ford alternator, they call it "the gateway part".
Seemingly harmless, fun to use, no apparent side effects.

Then, six months later, the alternator isn't enough, you want more.
A bigger kick- preferably mainlined- of that sweet American technology.
That's right amigo, you want a V-8.

Did Jack fail to mention any of this while spieling his 130A snakeoil?

If you've already installed a Taurus alt, run out to your car immediately and pop the hood.
It's possible you sleepswapped the engine and aren't even aware of it.

Yes, that's a real thing.

Thasright kids. First more amps, then more torque.



It's all Juice.

I don't know why everyone is so hung up on the wiring. The Taurus alternator is a three wire plug-

BUT IT IS NOT A THREE WIRE CONNECTION TO OUR WIRING HARNESS!

The confusion is created if you do not have the original plug from the Taurus wiring harness as pictured below. The plug has the 'loop back' terminal already installed. Use it!

Now the only two wires you have to worry about are the S terminal and the L terminal. If you have an S5 this is all you need to know:




If you have an S5 or an S4, this wiring diagram is perfect. Once you understand the Taurus plug, you can wire the Taurus just like the FD alternator swap.


https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=146552

Just one comment to add to this.

This alternator is simply larger, and that size prevents it from going down as far as a stock s4/s5 alternator. So it would be more than difficult to go with a belt much smaller (if any) than stock simply because of the larger alternator body size preventing you from pushing the Taurus alternator down far enough to get that smaller belt on.

This TMIC issue similar to when going with an S6/FD alternator with a strut bar that sit above it, thus limiting how far you can push it up to sufficiently tighten the belt. The fix is a slightly smaller belt akin to suggested fix for the TMIC issue. But that slightly smaller belt is a son of a bee to get on.

First hand knowledge of this. I had an FD alt on my S5 13B turbo. OEM length on my alt belts had the FD alt at the very top of my adjuster and had it rattling on my TMIC. I went to a shorter belt but it was a PITA to get the belt around the pulley. I had to put the belt on with the alt loose on top of the water pump housing. I had to work the long bolt into position so that it would go through the pump housing and thread into the alt.

I have recently upgraded to a modded 140 amp S5 alternator I bought on eBay. It's been on for about two weeks and no complaints so far. It handles my Taurus efan without even a hiccup.

Padding is still on the TMIC from trying to dampen the noise from alt on TMIC.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...14504194_n.jpg

Looks good.

Don't forget that A/C belt!

-j

Thanks Jack!

Not only the a/c belt. I have to get a dual pulley for my FC alt. I sold the FD and the bling bling rotor shaped pulley (wasn't ever really my thing anyway). I haven't recharged the refrigerant yet since my rebuild was completed......and might be switching to the "other" type of a/c compressor. I have an a/c only bracket for whichever compressor I don't have (can't remember if i have Sanden or Nippon Denso). I may buy that one with hoses and go manual steering rack.

Speaking of which, I need to reread your thread on alternative refrigerants...that and I should probably do a build thread for my rebuild. Maybe someone can learn from some of my noob mistakes on my rebuild.

You FC guys are pretty damn funny sometimes :lol:

No, just clokker. The rest of us are either tragically flawed :mspank: or*way* too serious considering the platform.

Alright ive spent the last 2 hours mobbing through these 8 pages, and other Taurus e-fan writeups...

This may be a dumb question but no one has asked..

Rather than swapping Tempo's, Taurus alts ect onto our fc's, shimming, grinding ect to make them fit.

Is it possible to just mod the Factory s4 ALT for higher amps?

I mean JustJEff bought one off ebay for crying out loud. Save me the headache!