Here is a brand new Taurus fan, lifetime warranty ISO9000 rated manufacturer for $89.99 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91...spagenameZWDVW
Lifetime warranty.

Mind telling me what fan that is, and where did you get it? Also, are you running a VMount, or "normal" setup?

For the people interested in testing their full load, Why not just buy an Amp-Clamp, 30-200$ depending on manufacturer, gets you a reliable mean for testing amperage. As a mechanic I find I use it frequently, Easiest way to find a parasitic draw. put amp clamp on, See amps, rip out aftermarket stereo. see amps, Oh my the problem went away! how could that be!

What a concept! Actually measure the amperage??? You tell 'em Brother!

BTW, my digital meter with a clamp only measures A-C. Most people think that theirs will measure D-C until they read up on it or try to measure D-C. When I was researching the Taurus fan, I couldn't find anyone that had actually measured the amperage. Usually they would say 'I measured it with my Fluke-XXX and it drew 45 amps. ' I would look up the model and find that it was A-C only. Most of the numbers out there were made up. I'm sure someone somewhere measured it but when I measured it the fan drew 25 amps. I didn't buy a new clamp meter, but found a cheap easy way using an inline ammeter. Close enough for the girl I go with.

but thats not what people do, they get one from the junkyard. I also do not see any specifications for that ebay fan?
The ISO thing does not impress me at all, I deal with warranty claims from companies with ISO ratings all the time for products that cost ALOT more then a fan, products that cost more then our houses, and these are real bonehead errors.

I got a Zirgo, im betting the motors are all made by the same guys in Taiwan anyhow!
Greddy FMIC, with AC as well.

Yes, I work for a canadian company that is ISO certified and I handle Techservices and claims as a part of my job, so I can agree with your statement. However, a product from an ISO rated company is far better than a product from a company that is incapable of becoming certified.

Zirgo is making up their numbers. That fan will *not* move 3600 cfm at 10 amps. They are lying about their numbers.

I'm not saying it is a bad fan. I am not saying the fan won't cool your car. It may cool your car just fine. I'm just saying Zirgo has no magic wand to bend the laws of physics allowing them to do the impossible things that their spec sheet claims.

BTW, notice the bogus icon on the fan page the has a large Certified! across the words limited lifetime warranty. Who certified that, Zirgo marketing? The warranty is clearly 'limited' but the limitations terms are not anywhere on the web page.

If the spec sheet is bullsheet, then I do not trust the fans either.

Ill check my warranty when I dig it out, I already had to replace thier 3000CFM fan that burnt out, they said it was a manufacturing issue and they were no longer selling that fan so they upgraded me for a few dollars, they did offer me a full refund if I did not want to upgrade of if I wanted to buy another brand of fan.

I also dont really care if it is pushing 3630cfm, im thinking it has to be pushing close to 3000cfm in real world- where is the specs on that ebay fan that say what CFM and what amps it is?

This sound like the support the produce well. Sounds like it needs supported too.:( I have had similar experiences with Hayden(imperial) fans. They work fine, but they wear out.
I agree. I just has to do the job.

I wouldn't bet on that...but then, we have no way to know. The spec are there for one reason: to allow us to choose the correct fan for our application. So there is a need for them to be accurate.




The spec they claim is "All of our products meet ISO9001 and QS9000 quality control specifications to assure factory style performance and reliability"

That could be bull and certainly leaves a lot that could be disputed. I might call that number just for giggles and grins and speak to someone.

Edit: Quick email response

Dear jackhild,

Thanks for the email, they are made exactly to factory specs by Dorman. Thanks again.


- autopartsdirect2you

but who is to say what the 3.8 ford fan ever pulled to begin with? Where did the 2900CFM number ever originate from?

maybe it too is just internet propaganda, no different then when another company claims XXXX CFM?

Good point, I didn't think about that. They are probably also being safe and assuming that you are going to be using 100% of available amps at all times and want to be sure that you don't burn the wire out causing a fire.

I read that the Idle output of a 180A alt is something like 85 amps at idle. If I can get 85 amps at idle, I'll be thrilled. Lets not forget that I have the S6 waterpump housing as well as the crank pulley so I'll be running the serp belt with the correct factory ratio pulleys. I'll do some measureing but I think everything will work out. even if the voltage drops off significantly at idle, how much time is spent idleing around?

Now you and I are singing the same song. I have also read 4000 cfm and I have read 4500 cfm. All this sh*t about the taurus fan is made up. Ford has not released the specs. What I do know is that none of the amp figures are real, therefore none of the CFM details are real as well.


And all the details from Zirgo are made up as well.

Please, hook her up to your multi-meter and let her eat, Same on I have a good ole strap-on electrical tester.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blue-...spagenameZWDVW

The old Optima yellow top was getting to be really weak. It came with the car back in 2005 and the PO didn't know its age then either. The dash voltage gauge was showing the intimate workings of the voltage regulator. The efan would kick on, the voltage would drop like a rock to 10-11 volts, then rapidly rise to 14v. The fan would shut off and the volts would jump up, then drop down, then rise to 14v.

I bought a new battery on Tuesday. I drove the car to south Arlington today, about a 30 mile trip one way. Mix of high speed traffic and start and stop traffic.

The voltage was stable as a rock at 14.1 volts. There was no discernible change, no spike or dip when the A/C and the Efan cycled on or off. It didn't matter if the car was going down the highway or idling in traffic.

The voltage just stayed steady as a rock.

This thing is great!

Just a tought...
If that alt ever supplying 130amp (or close to it), wouldnt this burnt the main fuse (black)???
I know some fc comes with 100a main fuse and mine only has 80a main fuse.

Yes, it would blow the main fuseable link rated at 100 amps. I doubt that the alternator will ever be required to put out that much, but I have a spare in the console.

The big alternator is really more about being able to carry the sustained load of the increased accessories without overheating, in my case the 50-60 amp sustained load. That will not likely add up to more than 100 amps.

I've been doing some thinking and replying in other threads and realized that the pulley ratios are different from the FD to the FC. We know the FC's thanks to Jack, I'm going to go measure my FD crank and alt pulley and get that ratio. I think one of the reasons the FD alts don't do as well as they should in the FC's is because they are underdriven.

So I finally got the chance to call them today, here is what I found out. The 3:1 ratio is what they claim NORMAL alts turn at.
At 2400 alt RPM's the alt will produce roughyl 50% of it's rated capacity. In the case of the FD HO alt, that's 95 amps at idle speed assuming a 3:1 ratio of pulleys. Not too shabby. I need to measure my crank and alt pulley to determine what my ratio will be. However, even if the alt output drops off linearly from 2400 RPMS to zero, your 1.8:1 ratio would theoretically yeild 57 amps of output. Still pretty fricken good. I mentioned the 8k redline and he said, you're not there all day, it'll be fine.

They also said they would be willing to build me one using my powdercoated case :icon_tup:

Also, I'm not an electrical genius but to me a rewound alt is just that - a modified stock piece. These guys, Motor City Reman, buy all new pieces, new stators, bigger diodes etc etc etc to make the alts produce the amps that they do. They don't add more windings, they use an entirely different stator. Jack, serious question not being old and grumpy - does that sound legit to you as being a better option over a "rewound" alt? I remember dicking around with electic track cars as a little kid with my uncle and winding more material around the motors in the quest for more speed. I always though alts worked backwards from electric motors and adding more winding would just increase the output.

All depends on how it's wired up. in my instance the battery (in the storage bin) cable connects to a solenoid switch. From the solenoid switch to the starter, from the starter to the main fuse block and then everything is factory. Therefore I am not drawing one extra amp of current over what the car was pulling stock. I have aux fuse blocks that are hooked up the battery. My alt wire is connected to the battery side of the solenoid. I can use the solenoid as an emergency shutdown if I need to and I don't have to worry about accidentally cooking the alt if it;s tripped accedentally.

This is the current theory, but I would like to actually find out if this is true.
Let us know the ratio. That may be the key to living better with an FD alt.


I dunno, here is what they say in the technical information on the site:I am not trying to pick n quote to make my point. What I think is that the high output alternator is an art form and these guys sound like they are pretty good at it. The fine points may defy easy explanations or rules of thumb. Just be prepared to work with them after the initial install, because you may have to do some tweaking.

BTW, I did a little checking and you can buy lots of different alternator pulley sizes at Jegs. From 2.1" to 5". That 2.1 will give you the 2.1:1 ratio which might be necessary when tweaking.


If they are doing custom parts (or spec-ing HD parts that are available) then I would much rather go down this path than with a common 'rewind'.

Sounds complicated but maybe a good idea for relocation. Here is a thought. Check the idle volts at the B terminal on the alternator, at the battery positive terminal, at the solenoid terminal and last at the main fuse terminal.

If there is a voltage drop between the charging wire (at the solenoid) and the main fuse terminal (where the alternator 'senses' the volts) then it might be possible for your setup to over volt the battery at times, reducing battery life.

Will do. I've got some parts to pick up in the morning than I'm all about the 7 all day. To be honest though, I'm going to spend most of my day playing with the new parts though ;)

Very well said. I agree, it's a bit of a black art that I am not all that familiar with. IE - I didn't know that common rewinds could result in lower idle output as you have said in the past. I always figured more wind = more power at any given speed. Who knew. I am more than willing to work with them, it's a 7 for crying out loud. I've been tweaking this car for more than 11 years :rlaugh:

[quote=jackhild59;8549677]BTW, I did a little checking and you can buy lots of different alternator pulley sizes at Jegs. From 2.1" to 5". That 2.1 will give you the 2.1:1 ratio which might be necessary when tweaking.[/quotes]

That's good to know. Someone (Cliff - I hope you're reading) with access to a CNC machine could probably make a ton of bread making correct serpentine or v-belt pulleys if we do determine that the bigger size FD crank is to blame.

They are. I was told that with thier high output alts just about every single part is different from the stock amp units. They specifically mentioned stators and diodes and a few other things.

That scheme isn't too complicated. What got complicated was wiring in a Hella aux block and 8 relays to control various other things throughout the car. Some had to be constant hot even when the bat was shut off (PDL, PDW, alarm, Fog lights, horn, radio mem) while most can be keyed on with the ignition. That was a mindfuck wiring everything up. It all works though.

I'm running a Motec EMS and when I built/had the engine harness we added the alt exite wire into the engine harness so testing at the main fuse block will do no good. When she runs I will test at the B terminal, bat terminal, solenoid terminal - which is only about 2' of 2ga - and the S or L terminal, whatever the exite is, I can't remember. I'm not using the warning light indicator. The idiot lights are leaving - FOREVER

"If" it is the fact that fd crank pulley is bigger, then is this mean that "fc" car is underdriven the fd alt???
How can we fix this prob?? can we just put in a bigger size alt pulley??

Smaller size pulley.

i know this post is old, but OEM quality is really high, esp for even Ford to put it factory in a car.. its really a nice fan i had put one in my 240sx. I had a flexalite fan and went to the taurus fan because i was overheating with the a/c on. The built in shroud and power make the taurus fan kick ass.

Good thread, gonna bookmark this!

I measured the pulley circumfrence today

ALT = 7.5"
Crank = 14"

Ratio = 1.87:1 :scratch:

I'm not ditching my alt pulley to tweak anything. It's a beautiful custom piece. IFF I have problems I'll go to a machinist and have he pump out a crank pulley. But that IFF I have problems. If the stocker replacement is 100A & the HO is 180, I should be putting out ~80% more amps @ idle assuming they both drop pff the same amount which is probably a false assumption. Whatever, we'll see.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I should've measure to see if a 7" crank pulley would even fit. If it does I bet I might be able to go back to a stck waterpump pulley too instead of the underdriven one to give more belt contact... hmmmmmmmm

I just wanted to do a quick follow-up on this thread, cause I'm interested in it...

A local shop uses Nissan Maxima alternators for most imports as a high output set-up.
I did a quick search on eBay, and theres models listed from 130A, 140A, and 160A.
Prices are from $70 - $130.
The plug *looks* like it's the same as the S5 / FD one.
The problem is the pulley - it looks like they use multi-ribbed serpentine belts.


-Ted

Ted-

Are you going to try this one? The pulley swap should be straitforward. Just use the one off your old alt, if the shaft fits. If not, there are plenty of aftermarket pulleys at Jegs.

Also, on the plug, just check out the Nissan wiring diagram, they very likely use the same setup that the S5+ gens use-one wire to the charging light another wire to the main fuse box under the hood. To keep it strait, the larger guage wire of the two wires from the alt goes the the fuse box to remotely sense the voltage. You may have to change out the plug to use the nissan or change the polarity to fit the FC wiring.

My next phase for this car is to replace my Taurus fan with the supposedly more muscular Mark VIII fan. You can never be too good looking, have too much money or have too much airflow across a condenser coil.

Yeah, I'm looking for more amps, since I might have the big stereo itch again.
The FD can barely keep up 13.0VDC at night with the headlights on...especially when the electric fan kicks in.
I've got a crappy single 16" fan in there now, but it's going to go duals pretty soon.
More current draw. :(
$130 for a 160A alternator looks mighty temping right now...

Sorry about the Cressida reference, but the saddle mount is totally different.
The Cressida alternator is like your Taurus alternator though... :)


-Ted