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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8720103)
I get it from the wolf dash controller, but my stock 20 year old gauge reads the same, just not with a digital display.
Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8720103)
The alternator came tested over 100amps, I forget what it was now- getting old sucks,
Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8720103)
I do know it was over 110 amps, seem to be thinking like 120?
Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8720103)
I also have the battery in the trunk with 0 gauge to the dist. box under the hood.
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the wolf also has its own power wire, thats 4 gauge.
My wolf tuner told me the wolf likes good, clean power. btw im 37 |
Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8720934)
the wolf also has its own power wire, thats 4 gauge.
My wolf tuner told me the wolf likes good, clean power. btw im 37 |
we should start the old fart's club
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8721011)
we should start the old fart's club
Rotary Performance and Assorted STuff **ID required- must be 2x age of car** |
:rofl:
I'm not quite that old, 2x age of car but I have crested the 30 mark though |
so what's the over all deal? does it work with no problem's i would read the whole thread but im too lazy..a rundown/recap would be nice.
:AA: |
Originally Posted by AcidAngel7477
(Post 8721814)
so what's the over all deal? does it work with no problem's i would read the whole thread but im too lazy..a rundown/recap would be nice.
:AA: . -Jack |
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
(Post 8721765)
:rofl:
I'm not quite that old, 2x age of car but I have crested the 30 mark though Or maybe get a younger car to qualify! |
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 8722226)
30? Hmmm...You will need a permission slip from your parent or guardian to join!
Or maybe get a younger car to qualify! Maybe we should have a, "We do shit right club," :suspect: |
I have old jeeps!
1976 CJ and a 1982 Cherokee wide wheel laredo, 304 and 360 AMC powered! |
Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?
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Originally Posted by JustJeff
(Post 8791584)
Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?
Just off the cuff, I think you would be better off moving the TMIC to the front of the A/C condenser than attempting to machine a mount on the P/S bracket. Moving TMIC to the front would increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak. Then, you could mount anything you want to the alt mount. |
Where do you get these "13b-re multi groove pulley"s?
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Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 8722642)
I have old jeeps!
1976 CJ and a 1982 Cherokee wide wheel laredo, 304 and 360 AMC powered!
Originally Posted by yeti
(Post 8968850)
Where do you get these "13b-re multi groove pulley"s?
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but I got to admit my 07' cherokee is much nicer to drive, the old jeeps are good for a blast around but get tiring.
I got the pulleys as notttt said- from someone with a 13B-RE engine, they were using different pulleys. I never tried FD pulleys, they may work. |
A close friend of mine almost bought an '06 WK Overland which was a REALLY nice rig. You could really see the Benz influence. Personally my lifted 5spd XJ is plently comfy or me
FD pulleys would only work with the FD waterpump and housing as the e-shaft pulley is spaced farther out than the FC/RE pulleys |
So if I go with the tempo, there is no avoiding the dual pulley?
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I have a choice of getting a 1 wire or a 3 wire version of the tempo 170A alternator. The seller has been awesome, helping me out tons. I I have an FD alternator in my car now, but I'm sure the regulator is shot from incorrect past install.
Does anybody know for SURE 100% how I should wire in the alternator for the tempo without a stock harness. (I have a haltech standalone.) or should I just get the single wire? I like the idea of the single wire, but I don't like the idea of sub 14v idle and such. I will obviously be needing to install larger gauge wires and such, and getting a smaller diameter pulley so that idle RPMs is 2000+ instead of 1,440. What do you guys think? 1 wire or 3 wire? |
Just read up here, I am for sure going 3 wire, I just need to figure out how to wire it in. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
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***edit***
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures... but I ran mine : The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ALT_wiring.gif http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ternator07.jpg |
Originally Posted by BASTARD
(Post 9073071)
***edit***
here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures... but I ran mine : The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ALT_wiring.gif http://fordfuelinjection.com/public/...ternator07.jpg I would run it to the positive post of the battery given that TweakGames standalone has a standalone. Put a 10 amp fuse for safety and call it a day. |
Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. :( Crap.
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
(Post 9073232)
Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. :( Crap.
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 8534638)
On that page you linked they strongly warn about low output at idle. They even tell you that they will put a smaller pulley on to solve the problem. They recommend a 3:1 ratio of crank pulley diameter to alt pulley diameter. My crank is 4.5 and my alt pulley is 2.5, 4.5:2.5=1.8:1 ratio! Therefore, at 8000 rpm, my alt is turning at 14400 rpm. At idle, 800 rpm my alt is turning 1440 rpm. These guys say their amperage drops off 'substantially' below 2400 rpm. The ratio they recommend will turn the alternator 2400rpm at idle, but at 8000 redline it will turn it at 24000 rpm.
You have been warned several times!!! Seriously my friend, good luck and let me know how the HO alternator works out. |
Originally Posted by jackhild59
(Post 9073237)
Pretty much why I decided not to go with a rewind.
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