Originally Posted by JustJeff (Post 11074177)

Jack, what you said was dead on..not that I doubted your advice. Just figured I'd report back. I was at my parents yesterday and let my father's 91 vert idle at around 500rpm. His OEM volt meter read 14v the whole time.

I've got my engine apart to have the injectors serviced so I can't test my alt with a multitester. But I'm stumped in that all of my alts have shown the same just over 12v at idle. For that reason I haven't noticed any different behavior from my OEM S5, FD and modded 140 amp S5. For the time being and foreseeable future my alt is going to remain the same. I know someone posted with a Taurus alt under their TMIC but I simply don't know how they did it. My FD wouldn't fit properly. I'd like to eventually go VMIC and at that time I'd gladly do a Taurus alt...but who knows if or when that will happen.

If I'm understanding the research I've done on aftermarket pulleys. The RB pulley and others are for slowing down the alt for high rpm/racing purposes. The exact opposite of what is needed for a H.O. alternator. Guess I'll have to hold rpms up a touch in traffic until I find a pulley.

Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 11074184)

It occurs to me there is one thing all those alternators had in common-the voltmeter on the dash.

What if it reads wrong?

Confirm the volts with a volt meter. The you know if you can trust that gauge.

While you are waiting for those injectors to come back, you could also test your battery to see if it reads 12.6 volts. If not, then put a charger on it and charge it. Check the volts. Now it should read 12.6v.

Originally Posted by JustJeff (Post 11074204)

Right, It must be that, but it's happened in two different turbo verts. The battery is sitting dead right now, I was working on installing a new gauge as well as rewiring some existing ones..had the doors open all day and killed my battery. Once the injectors are back and the car is drivable I'll charge the battery.

Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 11787554)

Go to a local store and have them get one out so you can measure it.

Originally Posted by JustJeff (Post 11787582)

Already tried that at Advanced Auto Parts, it's a dealership only part. I've been at the local yards and they all pull the alts before they go into the yards. I'll make some calls to see if they have that alt, but I haven't seen an SHO in any of the yards for a while.

I even tried to get an online rebuild retailer to measure one they have for sale, they didn't go for that idea.

Originally Posted by jackhild59 (Post 11787635)

I just pulled up Oriellys Auto on my phone. Those alts are in stock all over Dallas. Didn't check Autozone but probably the same.

Someone has one you can get your hands on.

Originally Posted by djSL (Post 11849632)

I would be interested in picking one of those up as well. My s4 alternator can't keep up anymore. The only downside is I am running a double pulley setup currently.

Originally Posted by jjwalker (Post 11850503)

Kind of sort of relevant to the topic....

Too bad there is no way (that I know of) to convert the FC to a serpentine belt system.

Originally Posted by rxtuner79 (Post 11851534)

Not sure if it's been mentioned but is having the alternator rewired for higher amps an option?

Originally Posted by JustJeff (Post 11791260)

I brought the alternator home from the shop. Only way I could get my hands on the alternator is to buy it and have it shipped to the store.

For the record it's the alt off a 94-95 Taurus SHO with 3.0 liter engine. NOT the 3.2 liter engine. Store manager told me only 1% of SHO's had this engine.
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...824_102752.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...824_131342.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...824_131421.jpg

It looks like some washers as spacers would allow it to be mounted and moved fore and aft for belt alignment. Though for me I'd have to get another strut bar or loose the strut bar.

Irony has it that I doubt I'm going this route at this time, at least in the short term future. I'm tired of trying to make an efan and alt combo work when the clutch fan has never given me any problems. I'm not giving up on going efan and alt swap but A am popping the clutch fan and shroud back on till I get my hands on a pulley and strut bar that will work with the Taurus alt.

Originally Posted by coxxoc (Post 11850744)

Use 13BRE pulleys for a no underdrive setup. They aren't easy to come by. I think Atkins sells a set that is slightly underdriven. My setup is an old MazdaRacing.com six rib pulley set on the eshaft and water pump. The alternator was underdriven too much unless I drove over 2500 RPM everywhere. I ran across a 20B alternator deal that had the right size pulley although it is 7 rib. It works, and I got a bolt on 120 amp alternator upgrade in the process.