130 Amp Alternator Sweetness
#26
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Nice work!
I gotta agree that the fabrication is on the simple side.
Kudos to you.
One thing that still bothers me...
With the higher redline of the 13B, cause these domestic alternators take that kinda revs?
I guess if you can update this thread regularly?
I bet the Taurus motors can't rev past 6kRPM?
-Ted
I gotta agree that the fabrication is on the simple side.
Kudos to you.
One thing that still bothers me...
With the higher redline of the 13B, cause these domestic alternators take that kinda revs?
I guess if you can update this thread regularly?
I bet the Taurus motors can't rev past 6kRPM?
-Ted
#28
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I dunno, I don't think it'll clear. It certainly won't clear mine and mine is high enough to interfere with the hood slightly.
I applaude your efforts but wold be weary of others trying this. I think you got incredibly lucky when you built your bracket as 3/16 I don't consider to be fine enough adjustment to line up a pulley. I suppose some thinner SS washers could work. I'm also not giving up the adjustment method I created
I'd go to a parts store and see if they can x-reference a taurus alt with some other fords. You may find that it's on some higher winding engines. Even if it lasts a few months, it's still a nice cheap alternative. Honestly though, it's not like a delicate transmission or something where moving parts could be a problem. It's a few bearing that you need to be worried about. Possibly heat as well.
I applaude your efforts but wold be weary of others trying this. I think you got incredibly lucky when you built your bracket as 3/16 I don't consider to be fine enough adjustment to line up a pulley. I suppose some thinner SS washers could work. I'm also not giving up the adjustment method I created
I'd go to a parts store and see if they can x-reference a taurus alt with some other fords. You may find that it's on some higher winding engines. Even if it lasts a few months, it's still a nice cheap alternative. Honestly though, it's not like a delicate transmission or something where moving parts could be a problem. It's a few bearing that you need to be worried about. Possibly heat as well.
#29
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Even if it lasts a few months, it's still a nice cheap alternative. Honestly though, it's not like a delicate transmission or something where moving parts could be a problem. It's a few bearing that you need to be worried about.
#30
Nice work!
I gotta agree that the fabrication is on the simple side.
Kudos to you.
One thing that still bothers me...
With the higher redline of the 13B, cause these domestic alternators take that kinda revs?
I guess if you can update this thread regularly?
I bet the Taurus motors can't rev past 6kRPM?
-Ted
I gotta agree that the fabrication is on the simple side.
Kudos to you.
One thing that still bothers me...
With the higher redline of the 13B, cause these domestic alternators take that kinda revs?
I guess if you can update this thread regularly?
I bet the Taurus motors can't rev past 6kRPM?
-Ted
Yes, that is a concern. In all my research, one of the key factors that came up is that larger diameter alternators generate larger centripetal forces. The generation Taurus that my fan comes from has a HUGE alternator. That's the one that I originally wanted to use. The size worried me about clearances. That combined with the rpm concerns lead me to this particular alternator. It is larger than the S5, but still pretty compact.
Taurus revs? I don't know. I have never driven one. I won't even rent one.
#31
The pulley you have on the Taurus alternator appears to be smaller than the one on the stock unit. Have you considered the fact that you're potentially going to be spinning the Taurus alternator faster than it was designed to go? Combine that with the fact that the redline on a Taurus is likely something pitiful like 5k RPM and you could end up with little bits of copper flying through your hood when the armature explodes.
Personally, I think people worry about too many things. No one worried about the larger diameter on the FD because we know FDs are high rpm motors. I bet the rotational. I don't think in this case the difference is that large. The materials, bearings etc. are likely similar if not the same. This alternator is mildly larger in diameter, but is quite a bit deeper as well. Other similar amperage alts from Ford seemed to be optimized the other way, larger diameter and shallower bodies.
I am not completely blowing off the issue either. I have taken the car up to 6000 rpms gently, but I have not driven it hard. I will give it some time before I do.
#32
And did you know that on Halloween the witches will come and eat your brains if you don't... oh, never mind.
My volts are just dandy, even under maximum load.
#33
I dunno, I don't think it'll clear. It certainly won't clear mine and mine is high enough to interfere with the hood slightly.
I applaude your efforts but wold be weary of others trying this. I think you got incredibly lucky when you built your bracket as 3/16 I don't consider to be fine enough adjustment to line up a pulley.
I applaude your efforts but wold be weary of others trying this. I think you got incredibly lucky when you built your bracket as 3/16 I don't consider to be fine enough adjustment to line up a pulley.
BTW, the maximum that I could be out of alignment with 3/16' adjustment would be half that amount, or 3/32". That is too much, but I assure you that I am already much closer than that.
I'd go to a parts store and see if they can x-reference a taurus alt with some other fords. You may find that it's on some higher winding engines. Even if it lasts a few months, it's still a nice cheap alternative. Honestly though, it's not like a delicate transmission or something where moving parts could be a problem. It's a few bearing that you need to be worried about. Possibly heat as well.
Heat being a concern with all alternators, the main source of heat is NOT the heat from the surrounding engine bay, but from the function of the alternator. The closer an alternator operates to it's rated capacity, the less efficient it gets, hence the more heat it makes. I suspect that this alternator by operating far below it's maximum capacity is making less heat than the S5 alt makes.
I measured a 60+ amp output on my S5 alternator with everything running as detailed above. That's 75% of the rated capacity. That same 60 amp load is only 46% of the 130 amp capacity of the Taurus alternator. You have just learned one of the best reasons to upgrade an alternator on the FC. The large capacity alt is not working very hard to do it's job.
I am not concerned in the least about heat on this Taurus alternator.
Last edited by jackhild59; 09-07-08 at 01:44 PM.
#34
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wow .. +1.
Thank you for sharing.
I have a question about the pulley. Did you modify the stock one, or put an rx7 v pulley on there? Or did you just go around the junkyard looking for a v that fit the shaft?
Also are you willing to make + sell the adapters you made?
Thank you for sharing.
I have a question about the pulley. Did you modify the stock one, or put an rx7 v pulley on there? Or did you just go around the junkyard looking for a v that fit the shaft?
Also are you willing to make + sell the adapters you made?
Last edited by TweakGames; 09-07-08 at 02:09 PM.
#35
Make sell the adaptors? I dunno about that. I barely have time to do my own fun, let alone with someone elses. I hadn't though of this, but let me think about it.
#37
Stock boost FTW!
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If it was the 3.0L or 3.2L SHO engine, they redline @ 7000RPM
The thing to check if the alternator's durability is in question, is the diameter of crank pulley and alternator pulley's on the Taurus. This information, along with the redline can give you the maximum alternator RPMs.
Compare this to the pulleys and RPMs on the RX-7 and you will be able to see what you are working with
Vince
The thing to check if the alternator's durability is in question, is the diameter of crank pulley and alternator pulley's on the Taurus. This information, along with the redline can give you the maximum alternator RPMs.
Compare this to the pulleys and RPMs on the RX-7 and you will be able to see what you are working with
Vince
#38
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
You know that I did actually measure the location and built the bracket so that it shouldn't need the adjustments. It fit just like I designed it. I don't consider that lucky. I also planned for adjustments, in case my execution of said plan was imperfect. I consider that prudent.
Heat being a concern with all alternators, the main source of heat is NOT the heat from the surrounding engine bay, but from the function of the alternator. The closer an alternator operates to it's rated capacity, the less efficient it gets, hence the more heat it makes. I suspect that this alternator by operating far below it's maximum capacity is making less heat than the S5 alt makes.
I measured a 60+ amp output on my S5 alternator with everything running as detailed above. That's 75% of the rated capacity. That same 60 amp load is only 46% of the 130 amp capacity of the Taurus alternator. You have just learned one of the best reasons to upgrade an alternator on the FC. The large capacity alt is not working very hard to do it's job.
I am not concerned in the least about heat on this Taurus alternator.
I measured a 60+ amp output on my S5 alternator with everything running as detailed above. That's 75% of the rated capacity. That same 60 amp load is only 46% of the 130 amp capacity of the Taurus alternator. You have just learned one of the best reasons to upgrade an alternator on the FC. The large capacity alt is not working very hard to do it's job.
I am not concerned in the least about heat on this Taurus alternator.
#41
Thanks, already fully aware of source of killer heat on an alt. In my instance, I am overrunning a tested 110Amp FD alt with the fan, lights, heat, wipers and stereo going. So you see my concern when I say heat. I'm going to try to find a place that can rebuild my FD alt to 130-150+ amps. I admire you taking the time to do this, I wouldn't though. Just my $.02
So, you have an inadequate alternator? Is it really or are you guessing? Do you know how many amps your alternator is producing when all that jazz is running? What I am asking is have you actually measured the output while the accessories are running? If you haven't you don't really know. If you don't know, then you may not need an upgrade. You should measure the amp draw then decide. You might be just fine.
If you are having voltage problems at idle but not down the road, rewinding will only hurt not help your situation. If you get your alt rewound, the output at low rpms will suffer.
I try to approach things systematically. I don't 'buy a cure' until I know there is a measurable problem. I also don't half do things. Thanks for the complements, and I really do appreciate your constructive criticism and analysis. That makes us all a little better and likely answers questions that other readers may have. It keeps us all sharp.
Thanks for your comments.
Last edited by jackhild59; 09-07-08 at 08:38 PM.
#43
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
So, you have an inadequate alternator? Is it really or are you guessing? Do you know how many amps your alternator is producing when all that jazz is running? What I am asking is have you actually measured the output while the accessories are running? If you haven't you don't really know. If you don't know, then you may not need an upgrade. You should measure the amp draw then decide. You might be just fine.
If you are having voltage problems at idle but not down the road, rewinding will only hurt not help your situation. If you get your alt rewound, the output at low rpms will suffer.
I try to approach things systematically. I don't 'buy a cure' until I know there is a measurable problem. I also don't half do things. Thanks for the complements, and I really do appreciate your constructive criticism and analysis. That makes us all a little better and likely answers questions that other readers may have. It keeps us all sharp.
Thanks for your comments.
If you are having voltage problems at idle but not down the road, rewinding will only hurt not help your situation. If you get your alt rewound, the output at low rpms will suffer.
I try to approach things systematically. I don't 'buy a cure' until I know there is a measurable problem. I also don't half do things. Thanks for the complements, and I really do appreciate your constructive criticism and analysis. That makes us all a little better and likely answers questions that other readers may have. It keeps us all sharp.
Thanks for your comments.
#45
You should test to determine how much your alternator needs to put out to run your car and accessories. I tested by inserting an ammeter between the alternator and the main fuse. This way, every amp of power produced was accurately measured. I tested 60 amps on my car.
I was having voltage problems while running down the road. My alt was not suffiecient. I have also change a bunch of things so I am undecided if I'm going to get it rebuilt or not. i need to take the entire thing apart to coat the housing so while it's apart, why the hell not.