I need to know(from those who have done it) with the parts in my sig. what I need to do to get into the 12's.

I have been challenged by my co-workers to a 1/4 mile drag, cause they don't believe a rotary can make that level of power. These guys are old school big block v8 type and they say no rx7 can beat them.

Come june 03 will will race to find out. The race will be at www.estadrags.com and any rx7 is welcome to try they say.

 

The stock TMIC will probably need to be upgraded... or buy a FMIC---Down pipe Full exhaust- Intake (Cylinder)
Maybe a stronger fuel pump with a boost controller- Ported wastegate...


That should get you on your way. But make sure you have enough fuel!!!!


EDIT: Slicks


EDIT 2: Better CLutch

 

I haven't raced my 7 yet but I am building it for drag racing. I'm not really into rally racing or drifting. From reading your sig, I would say you will want a taller rear diff ratio. The Mazda B2200 has a 4.44 ring and pinion.

Is your new engine street ported? The more air/fuel you can get into your combustion chamber, the more power it will make. Also, ditch all the stuff that takes that power, like the power steering pump, the viscous fan, (go with electric fan) and I'm assuming you don't have the air pump since you have an aftermarket exhaust. You get the point though. The less stuff your engine has to turn, the more efficient it will become.

I see you went with a lightened flywheel. What about clutch? For launching your car, you will need an agressive clutch that will grab and stick will miniscule to no slippage. The more it slips, the more time ticks off the clock. Same with tire spin. Smokey burn outs are cool, but the whole time you are not going anywhere, the more time ticks off the clock. Racing slicks, or high pro racing tires for grip.

One you get moving, you have to know the most optimal shift points. If you have dyno slips for your car, you will see at what RPM your peak torque occurs for each gear. You'll have to experiment with shifting to see how shifting at different RPMs affects acceleration in the next gear. Redlining ever gear may not always be effective. If 1st gear's max torque is 5,000 and your redline is 8000, and you go to 8 and shift into 2nd, you may not be able to accelerate as quickly because you are already near or at the max torque for 2nd gear because the rear wheels are turning faster at 8k than they would be if you had shifted at 5k. If you shift and couple the engine to the tranny in 2nd at 30mph your RPMs will be lower than if you shift into 2nd at 45Mph. This will let 2nd gear be able to apply more torque to let you accelerate. Hope this makes sense. Like I said, its a trial and error thing. Dyno testing does help.

The last thing I can think of is a lighter car. Get rid of the spare tire, jack, tire iron, and any thing else that doesn't directly support going from point A to point B as fast as possible. HP to weight ratio. The lighter the car, the more hp can be applied to moving the weight that is there.

And last but not least

 

Project 84... unless you have an FB and not an FC, you can't put 4.44's in your car without modifying the short ring and pinion (B2200) to a long ring and pinion (FC)

just thought I'd let you know

 

you will need the FM intercooler
you will need 3" full exhaust (no cats helps)
good tires
upgraded fuel pump
grad some 720cc secondaries
3 or 4" T.I.D mod
electric fan will help
ditch p/s a/c
you will not need nitrious
and all the free mods like:
porting the intake
weight reduction will help too

 

I would have to guess that you would also need a turbo upgrade as well. I don't think the stock one does too well after 14 psi.

EDIT: oh yea, don't do JUST the secondaries as 720's. I would do primaries and secondaries. Then you can stay with the SAFC and not have to go with a haltech (much more expensive)

Oh yea.. I really honestly don't think you will hit 12's with the stock turbo.

 

what about
S5 ported engine
Fmic
Nitrous express intercooler kit
Intake
downpipe
2.5 inch exhaust no cats
no a/c
no p/s
no airpump
electric fan
fuel pump
primaries and secondaries upgraded
s-afc
boost controller.
Would that hit 12's?????

 

If *YOU* want your car to do 12's you will need upgraded turbo and a front mount to say the least.
I hope you are not on a budget as it will cost a lot to go from a stock turbo to an upgraded turbo and all the custom piping , aftermarket fuel, wastegate, injectors, pressure regulator, clutch etc, etc.
****, I spent at least $3000 to upgrade to a TO4 and I'm not done yet. Speed costs money and you're never satisfied. On a stock IC and turbo, I could not go any faster than 13.9 1/4. A 60-1 compressor upgrade gave me more power but the stock IC could not cool the intake charge enough and the stock exhaust wheel is just too damn small. 12's was out of the question with a stock IC and turbo.
If they say any RX7, then FDs are welcome as well?
They'll do 12's with just simple bolt ons.

 

you said 12's are out of the question with stock IC and turbo but what about a FMIC and the mods i listed????

 

It's possible, but you'll need a really strong motor. Mine stock went 14.5 @98 MPH. Once I put a haltech on it and fuel (already got the clutch/fly, exhaust, intake..etc) I'm shooting for 12's. Once I can't go any faster, it's T04 time.

 

I'm hoping for 12s with my current setup once I get my turbo upgraded to a BNR stage 3 within the next month.

 

errr....check the time in the sig. That was with those mod's boost at most around 8-9 in fourth. 2.25 60' time. I dare say with boost set to 12 pounds and some drag radials and a decent launch 12's could be pretty damn close on stock turbo/IC/ports.

My goal is to make it into the 12's on the stock turbo/IC. No one thinks it can be done, but I really think it's doable. No I'm not going to strip the car out either. Even if I can't make it to the 12's I'll be low 13's for sure. Get a 600 dollar hybrid and bam that's instant 12's. I really think everyone is making it sound MUCH harder than it really is....unless everyone knows something I don't :shrug:

 

I am running a full racing beat system with a hybrd turbo. I have a compressor map somewhere around here.

 

Get a custom TID and cone intake if you don't already have it and a fmic and you should be in the 12s depending on your boost level and your turbo.

 

Hrm. How efficient is removing the back plate on the stock ic and front mounting it? I know a few have done it, but how good did it work?