i know the flywheel nut has 6 points but was wondering if a 12 point socket would work also? just want to make sure before i spend the money.

 

Worked for me, it was the only one Sears had.

 

i believe it's a 2 and 1/8" socket. i know i got mine in 12 point at sears for a woppin 30 bucks

 

a 12 point will work - but a 6 point will grip it better and less chance of rounding it off as you remove it

most of my sockets are 6 point ones - i find that 12 point round things off rather than remove them ( esp on the rex as the nuts are pretty old )

take your chances at the end of the day

 

i wouldnt worry about rounding it off unless u have it on there crooked. i had no issues with the 12 point at all. some of the smaller bolts on the car it is better to use 6 point..... like mentioned above. not a big deal tho

 

Yeah you can get it at sears, but I had to ask for 53mm since they didnt have it in the standard section. And my 12 point worked just fine.

 

i went to napa they wanted 60 for the socket and i said f that and got a craftsman from sears with a life time warranty it was like 30 bucks =) but in short 6 point 12 point either one should work... i had to tap the breaker bar with a hammer then crank down on it..... funny part was after it i got the bolt off its seat it wouldnt move but it came off by hand

 

It's 54MM.

 

as said above 2 1/8 also works just fine, in the US it has often been easier to find large SAE tools than metric.

 

yep, I've used the 2 1/8th 12 point several times now with no real problems once I discovered the trick about leaving the motor mount point bolted to the engine and putting the leg of the hoist over it to hold the engine down while I jumped on the breaker bar.

 

Use the right tool for the right job:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-22000

I have the breaker bar also:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=49-22001

B

 

Craftsman 12point + adapter to fit my 2ft breaker = flywheel bolt off in about 2mins.

 

i as well had to use a 2 1/8th socket...the hardest part was keeping the flywheel from moving. a good wedge is a must. also dont apply presure smooth u wanna jerk a little to break the seat. thats y a impact gun is recommended.

 

I used an old wood hammer handle stuck between the top inspection port and the counterweight that's molded into the flywheel - then lower the engine to the floor with the motor mount bracket reattached but the oilpan off, lift the leg of the hoist and put it over the motor mount bracket, jack it up just enough to take the slack out of the chain, put the breaker bar on the socket at a right angle to the ground, and about two good hops on the end of the breaker bar break the nut loose easy.

I found that after about 1 1/2 hours of trying everything else from PB Blaster, to heating with a torch, etc. An impact gun would be awesome, but most sockets that big use a 3/4" drive (like that one), and most impact guns that home enthusiasts have are 1/2" drive like mine. :P

 

I have that tool and it works fine. But, if you're going to use the RIGHT tool for the job, wouldn't that be a socket, so that you can use a proper torque wrench when you put it back on?

(Sorry...I know that's overly-technical (but true))

 

i was lucky and had a friend with a 900ft lb impact gun. used that to zap it right off. then made a ghetto long bar with two holes in it to hold it, and torqued it down

 

tractor supply company... topeka kansas...3/4"dr, 12 pt, 2-1/8" socket- less than $15. lifetime warranty
impact, only needs 80 gallon tank, 3/8" hose, and 90 psi... 3/4" drive, 1000ft-lbs of torque max with variable power- $180, not sure about warranty, i am still hopeing to find a rental impact, but thinking about buying it, because it could come in handy while im at work.

 

eh, at 54mm, youre not going to round it off with a 12 point.
hell, i use a 6point 55mm, cause thats all they had, never had a problem

Lloyd

 

The usual 1/2" drive electric impacts work fine if you use propane too [my Dewalt was $60 off CL and did it immediately after I used the torch ]

 

12 point 54 mm, or 2 1/8" and impact will get it off right away.

 

Like Lloyd, I found at a random auto parts store a 55mm wheel socket for toyotas and was able to remove the flywheel nut no problem. Sure it's not the 54mm fit, but a heavy jolt will loosen the nut and you won't round it off. This was a 6-point BTW

 

ya, i use some "not meant for impact" shitty 3$ socket, with my snap-on mg725 after some oxy-acetylne torching to break the thread lock.
takes me about 2 minutes of work to get it off, almost 0 actual effort

Lloyd

 

harbor frieght has a cheap 3/4 inch electric impact that i got for like 60 plus 20 for a 54 socket.onlyuse i ever get out of the thing is specificly for rotary flywheels

 

Torch + Impact is the only way on a never removed from the factory nut.

 

ive used an Advanced auto flywheel holder backed onto a bell housing bolt, a 2 1/8th 12pt socket and a 3/4 breaker bar with about 4 feet of roll cage tubing on it... it makes a noise like hitting an aluminum bat against a metal mailbox post, and then you can undo it with your fingers.