Bought it about a month ago from a guy who had it stored for about a year.

I just changed:

• Oil
• spark plugs
• added gas (was completely empty)
• added coolant
• New battery
• installed Maf and aftermarket filter

so i went to fire it up, the car will start up, runs for about 3 seconds strong then passes out.

I looked underneath the car and like an idiot realized that the SAP was not hooked up. I searched the forums for hours and i had seen that as long as the port to the engine was capped off (which it is now) then there shouldnt be a vacuum leak? would a vacuum leak even prevent a car from running completely???

really pissed off and im not too savvy with TIIs yet.
thanks for the input.

will post pics if needed.

 

well, vacuum leak would make the run not run right, but depending on how bad the leak is then it could cause the engine to die. I would check all the vac lines, then check the tp, bac, and idle adjust screw.

 

thanks man will do.
ill update in the morning. needed this **** running to get to school but hey lol

 

k guys the BAC is leaking coolant.

I did the bubbling coolant test to see if the seals were blown and there were no bubbles, and im pretty sure from the sound that its not blown.

I guess i should check for clogs? remove and replace?
thanks guys

 

Sounds like an AFM issue. Make sure it's plugged in well. If all seems good, jumper the fuel pump check connector and see if it runs.

 

deffinatly. I'm really thinkin its a fuel issue. I hear something clicking near the BAC.
I found out the leak was just in the hose, so i put it on proper and of course she still wont start.

maybe if i remove the new sparkplugs and drop a few table spoons of oil in there then hand crank (as stated on aaroncake.net) then it should have a better chance of retaining pressure and possibly run like a good car should???

its not retaining oil pressure.

 

Leaky coolant hose won't cause it to not start. So focus on airflow,fuel and spark. The 'running for a few seconds' is a common symptom of the afm being unplugged/broken. It is the correct AFM for the series, right? Jumper the fuel pump test connector and try starting it again. Let us know how it goes.

 

I checked the connection between the plug and the afm and its good, but ill check the series to make sure.

Im also planning on removing all emmisions, would this kit be okay? Link

i really appreciate all the help guys.

 

Ive had that happen before and it was a MAF

 

alrighty well all signs point to maf then
I have a spare ill replace it with tomarrow morning.
could a leak in the SAP that i have plugged prevent it from idling?

 

okay well i checked the AFM and the one currently in the car is right (N318 13 210)
BUT the big letter code of the AFM installed is AD5 and the one in my hand only says A

something tells me i need to switch them?
so whats AD5?

 

The most common reason for this to happen is the AFM isnt staying open after the start sequence and shutting the pump down OR the AFM interlock itself is bad and isnt keeping the pump on.

Jumper the fuel check connector, then report back.

 

well i just searched and found the afm on the car is AD5 and this code is found on euro spec 7s.
and the one that I have in my hand is definitly A spec (just says A on it).

can anyone verrify the AD5 AFM code origin? ill keep searching
thanks everyone! and ill do the jumper check thing too

 

SO even though my neighbors probably hate me for this (its almost 12 am here)
i decided to go outside, swap out afms and BAM!
she started right up!

thanks everyone so much for everything, I haven't driven any of my rx7s on about a year.
finally an FC of my own

thanks again guys!
ill keep you all posted

 

glad to hear that problem is fix now.

 

thanks man but back to more bad news

So i took it for a drive and there is little to no power. I checked to see if i had a vacuum leak spraying some starter fluid and there was none to be found.

I do however have a massive exhaust leak. Now i know this can make any car run like ****, but mine barely drives under a load. Can anyone verify if this could be the main cause of the issue?

Ill fix the leak in the mean time. and just hope it works...

 

my second guess is a clogged fuel filter or faulty injectors

 

have you checked the compression? If it has low compression, it won't have any power.
not sure about the fuel though, usually if its not getting enough fuel the car will bog, but i could be wrong. if you want to go ahead and check, first check the injectors to see if the ohms are to spec, and then you could have them sent for cleaning.

 

do a compression check,then how long was the gas sitting in the tank?

 

the car was on E when i picked it up and was sitting for over a year. the engine revs, spools in idle properly so im pretty sure its not lacking in compression but i will go a head and check it anyway.

its only when the car is in gear that it struggles to stay on. My main reasoning behind thinking its a fuel issue is the fact that when i did get home from getting gas and brake maintenance, the car died out and would not restart till 15 min or so after (like a flooded engine).

im getting the exhaust leak fixed today and ill check compression asap...

 

checked the fuel filter near the engine and it apears to have never been changed within the 170k lifespan of the car. i just orderd a replacement and ill replace it tomarrow.

I dont have the money to rent a compression tester so ill pray that its just the fuel filter lol.
I did do the hearing check that i found on aaron cakes website and according to that my engine is still in good shape.

ill keep you all posted...

 

what was the problem?

 

EVERYTHING lol. turns out that I was missing an oil control ring in the engine (causing it to smoke like a crack *****) compression was down to 60-70psi on all faces, battery was dying along with misculanious other problems lol

but heres my success story if your interested lol https://www.rx7club.com/good-businesses-233/re-motorsports%3B-best-thing-ever-happen-my-7-a-929022/