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That's the air pump outlet that goes to the silencer. Under certain conditions, the air control valve dumps the air pump output through that. It goes to a tube along the firewall that ends up at a silencer under the headlight.
Practically, you could leave it disconnected and I doubt anything would happen. It isn't intake related.
That's the air pump outlet that goes to the silencer. Under certain conditions, the air control valve dumps the air pump output through that. It goes to a tube along the firewall that ends up at a silencer under the headlight.
Practically, you could leave it disconnected and I doubt anything would happen. It isn't intake related.
Great, thanks. Now, currently, this is is rigged up at the moment. Do you happen to have the whole stock connection for behind the tubing? Can you show me what it's supposed to look like behind the duct? I have no idea what part this is and how to connect it lol is this the bpv?
There's no way this is right... Right? Also what do i do with this second hole? The aftermarket pipe came like this
My car is currently NA, so that part of my intake is a bit different and there is no BPV of course.
As far as it just fitting into the pipe like that, I think that might be normal. There's a similar fitting for the BAC valve on the NA intake. As to anything more specific than that, unfortunately my intake is different enough that I don't know.
@mazdaverx713b might know though. He has a really clean 10AE with original intake.
My car is currently NA, so that part of my intake is a bit different and there is no BPV of course.
As far as it just fitting into the pipe like that, I think that might be normal. There's a similar fitting for the BAC valve on the NA intake. As to anything more specific than that, unfortunately my intake is different enough that I don't know.
@mazdaverx713b might know though. He has a really clean 10AE with original intake.
Thank you for your help
I've basically mocked it up to see what's off, and I'm a little lost on the bpv positioning. Everything else looks like it'll fit, but I'm not sure what to do over there... I tried reusing the connection just fot ***** n giggles but it also wouldn't work. I don't see me just bending a long enough hose either....
Edit:
I finally found a picture of a stock-ish engine bay that was more than 240p, and yeah it looks like I just need a hose with an elbow. Nice
All right, I managed to make it fit and I have everything set up except this:
What in the world goes in here? The aftermarket one had two nipples but the oem hole is too small
Edit:
All right, looks like it's a "check valve"? I'll have to look into finding a replacement one
edit 2:
I'm getting conflicting info. Atkins and Mazdatrix are telling me I need Part #HE41-13-995, but Mazda dealer websites say Part #FB01-42-910A. Do you guys have any input on which to get?
All right, I managed to make it fit and I have everything set up except this:
What in the world goes in here? The aftermarket one had two nipples but the oem hole is too small
Edit:
All right, looks like it's a "check valve"? I'll have to look into finding a replacement one
edit 2:
I'm getting conflicting info. Atkins and Mazdatrix are telling me I need Part #HE41-13-995, but Mazda dealer websites say Part #FB01-42-910A. Do you guys have any input on which to get?
Looking at the info I see when I search those numbers, the check valve starting with HE is listed for 89-06. So maybe the part was replaced with the S5 part in 89 and the original part number is now updated to the new one. That's a guess, best to wait for confirmation before purchasing. It just looks like a generic check valve.
What is that port on the oil fill neck connected to now? Best to check and see if there's anything else up with the evap system.
My 10AE is all original and I can see if I can post pictures of what you need this afternoon.
That'd be awesome. Can you see if the check valve is white/green? I'm finding more and more that that's the one I want but it wouldn't hurt to double check.
it looks like a PCV valve, like this guy, Mazda number is N236-13-265, any 83-91 turbo uses it, but Mazda doesn't have any in stock.
I went ahead and bought it, just kidding, they're all canceling the order because apparently even though its "in stock" they don't actually have it in stock and order from Mazda directly, only to find out it's out of stock. hopefully it works. It looks like the one I took out of the aftermarket, just without threads.
Thank you!
they're all canceling the order because apparently even though its "in stock" they don't actually have it in stock and order from Mazda directly, only to find out it's out of stock.
Thank you!
That's happened to me more than once. A lot of them only check if it's available after you order. Even the dealership did this to me once or twice.
It looks like it's just a generic PCV check valve, so it doesn't necessarily need to be OEM to work. Measure the hose diameter, then
should work fine (order from .com, not .ca). I'm running one on my brake booster and it's been very reliable. A PCV check valve operates on the same principles. I'm guessing 5/16", but measure to check. I'm also assuming flow direction is with the arrow towards the intake tube, this way it inhales the crankcase vapour under vacuum but doesn't boost into the crankcase when you let off the throttle. The FSM would probably be able to verify this.
Thank you guys. I'm gonna play a little safe at first and get an OEM plastic one but if it doesn't quite work out I'll get the one you suggested. Some things I don't like to **** with cause I don't understand it, and this is one of them. Should hopefully be here in a few days!
HE41-13-995 is (possibly) NOT the right part. Is it a one-way check valve? Sure. Is it the right one for this area? (it may be, but it fits like crap and you'll need a clamp/ziptie) No. Will it still work? Yes... Well, we'll see.
The male portion of this valve is not the right size for the opening on the TID. I had to make a ziptie super tight to make it not slip out, and I'm not even sure it'll work: I'll try running the car on boost later.
Having said that, one last thing that I apparently forgot to ask:
Do I need to plug this, it should this be connected to something? Is this what's supposed to connect to that sump thing I had a picture of earlier?
Do I need to plug this, it should this be connected to something? Is this what's supposed to connect to that sump thing I had a picture of earlier?
its for the air pump, if you're not running it, just plug/cap it
All right, so everything is back on and tightened... And now the car won't start.
The car started fine about 2-3 weeks ago. Battery checked, at 80%. Alternator was replaced 2 months ago, along with the battery terminals. I just cleaned the battery ground that's connected to the strut tower (while trying to diagnose this issue)
Opening door: no lights turn on
Turn key to ON position: hear a clicking/chirping noise, no injector noise
No crank, lights may or may not flicker for a second (usually not).
I've read somewhere it may be related to stock anti-theft device? I'll try to remove it later
Nevermind, folks. After a whopping 5 minutes of big-brain troubleshooting, I discovered it is in fact the battery's fault. Swapped it with the Supra's and it cranked on the 1st try. It still reads 80% charged for some reason, but I'm just gonna get a new one.
I still need to find the proper hose for the bpv, because it fits like garbage and it makes it so all my other intake parts fit like ****:
Looking good! If the BPV hose isn't available from Mazda anymore, you could probably find something from a local parts store.
The one near me used to carry these "universal heater hoses" that had a few different bends in it. The idea was that you could cut out the bends you need, add couplers and straight sections, and have a heater hose for applications where the hose is no longer made.
You could probably use one of those and just cut out the 90 degree bend.
05-14-22, 11:30 AM
