TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Weird thing happeneing. I Thought I had idle bounce, but it turns out its just that my car is turning off and on one of my rotors. It will start kinda do a half lawn mower half normal 2 rotor, then idle using both rotors for ever fine, until I tap the gas or give it gas, it will accelerate great until I let the rpms fall, and it will be running on only 1 rotor. Sometimes it stays on only 1 rotor, sometimes it bounces up and down and will finally settle using both rotors.

Any ideas? I just changed from the NA coils to the T2 coils with no change. (also changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires.)

Anything obvious I am missing?

Only thing I can see wrong right now is I have a green 3 pin connector that is the same shape as the TPS sensor, that is grouped with the emmissions plugs that I removed. I couldnt see any place for it to go, but I dont think it goes to anything.

Thanks.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

nevermind on the green connectors I Guess all green connectors are for testing. Still no clue why its doing this.

black_88

it chould be a fule cut. but I might be wrong.

sevenfc

im having this problem also but i have someone checkin it out tom so ill let u know wassup...does ur motor shake alot...

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

oops double post sorry.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

what would cause the fuel cut? Its not going over 8 psi @ 1000 rpm.


Would an 87 t2 ECU box work on my 88? My injectors are high impedence I think...

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

YES YES HELLA like a horney gorilla trying to break out of a cage! LET ME KNOW ASAP. As soon as I get this fixed IM GOOD TA GO! OMG!!!

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

sounds like your motors getting weak. it will only get worse i suppose

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

A friend of mine thinks that, there is a part of the throttle that when you only press it down that much, that it only runs 1 rotor. He thinks that since I messed with the screws behind the throttle body, that I have my idle set to high where its right in the range of that 1 rotor only thing. Anybody else have any other ideas?

Also anybody know a way to make sure I have the 3 screws in the back of the motor connected to the throttle things, are in spec?

Thanks.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

"usually is a combination affected by the idle level (idle set screw and air bleed screw), TPS setting, and cold start system(hot wax rod and fast idle cam). Once had the same problem and it was the hot wax rod gone bad. When it was adjusted for cold starting, it did not release enough when warmed up. This caused the ISC system to try to reduce the idle beyond it's control. This caused the oscillations in the system. Sometimes just having the idle bleed screw open too much can cause the problem because once again the ISC system is out of range. These symptoms can be also caused by small vacuum leaks causes the imbalance. "

hows that sound?

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Have you checked compression?

Why would coils from a TII make any difference?

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Additionally, what makes you think it's running on one rotor? Is one rotor not getting spark?? Or are you just comparing the symptoms to running on one rotor?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

You can hear it, it will be doing a nice steady hummmmmm, and then start going thump thump thump thump and the motor will shake back and forth, then u will hear the rotor that was off start to come alive again then start up and the idle will smooth out again. Also the shaking stops.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

You're missing my point. A motor can shake from a miss or a poor idle. Have you actually verified that one rotor is not running by checking the spark, injectors, etc?

You really need to start by checking vacuum and compression. Take a video of the sweeps on a guage and slow it down. Watch for a low sweep. Make sure you have good overall compression as well.

Now you know whether or not your motor is good and you can move on to resetting your throttle body screws, checking your ignition components (from the CAS to plugs), wiring and your FI setup.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

compression is fine 85 80

What do you mean sweeps?
I messed the hell out of the throttle body screws, so I think I better set that first. Could be an easy fix.

Then I will try cas and plugs.

The reason I say its running off 1 rotor is its REALLY easy to hear that its running off one rotor. One second its going thump thump thump, the next its going thump . . . . . thump . . . thump ... then back to thump thump thump. (My exaust consits of a down pipe right now so its reallllly easy to hear)

I have an ohm meter, can that be used to test between the cas to the plugs?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

I think im going to try and put in my NA harness, but I dont know how I am going to plug in the two white plugs that arnt on the NA harness. The one that plugs into the back of the throttle body, and the one on top of the UIM, above the bac.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok now I know for sure its on one rotor when it runs bad (and the rpm bounces up and down)
I pulled off both my trailing spark plugs and started the car. It idled normal for a little bit, bounced, and then idled bad. I pulled the l1 spark plug wire off the coil and the idle didnt change. I put the spark plug back, and pulled the l2 spark plug. The car turned off instantly.

Im in the process of testing things (all the sensors and such), but I dont know how to test if its getting fuel or not. I have the uim off so I Can see all the injectors. I have an ohm meter. Any help?

Right now im going to switch the primary injectors from 1 rotor to the other. If rotor 2 has issues then I know it was just the injector.

Also to make sure I have the wires connected to the correct injectors, the primary wiring harness part of the the wiring harness splits off into the 2 primary injector plugs. The Longer one goes to the injector on rotor 1 correct?

Thanks
~Tweak

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

80 psi is not good compression...

There are methods of testing the injectors by zip-tie-ing them to the rail and then having them squirt as you crank the engine. It's not very safe though... Your method sounds like a decent idea.

Have you checked spark using a timing light to see if your ignition was cutting out?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

WELLLLLL im an idiot ! its true dont beleive what everyone else tells you! I had my injector plugs messed up. I had my primary inj plug on my trailing and my trailing on my primary. Kinda doesnt like to run right when you do that.

Wow she pulls a lot harder then the NA. Also stops really fast when you hit the fuel cut at 4000 rpm @ WOT. lol I only have down pipe. Not as loud as I was thinking it would be either. Anyways anybody reading any of my posts in the last 3 days, unless you have ur injectors mixed up, dont listen to anything I am saying.

Good luck to you all!!