ghebert

hanman, I found that when the screw is out of your dampner it restricts your fuel to the rest of your primary fuel rail to your injectors. I found this after I had to replace my engine with only 65,000 original miles. I put my new engine in and it was still difficult to start. When it did it was real hot exhaust almost cherry red. After reading about dirty fuel injectors and engine fires on these engines I didn't want to ruin my engine so I pulled the dynamic chamber off. Sent the injectors out for cleaning, pulled the fuel rail off and found something ratteling in the cap of the dampner. I covered the injector ports with my fingers and blew thru the port going into the dampner and could barley blow thru it. I ordered a new dampner installed it on the fuel rail and blew thru it with no restriction at all. I pulled the cap off the old one, reinstalled the screw until tight and blew thru it with out restriction???? This tell me that I might not have been getting the correct fuel quantity for some time and running lean will cause eventual engine failure if not detected. Just so happens I just bought the car and only put 5,000 on her before all this happend. Let me know what you think. Since owning this car I have put in some quality time on her!!!!!!! P.S. I still have the old dampner with the screw back in for a spare if needed.

Rx7supra

whew is right =]
I hope its not a blown rotor or apex or anything internal... The guy i took it to hadnt called yet, i hope he calls and says got it fixed it was just a _________

If it were my coil is there an aftermarket coil or coil upgrade i could/should use?? and what kind of spark plugs factory spec?

Rx7supra

1 more thing sorry to spread these out.. before this happened i had misfires, the guy that sold me the car,his mechanic told me that the plugs were fouled (would this cause that, and could this be a cause of my problem if it is ignition.. the plugs were pretty dirty when i took them out and got little to no sprak, i think they were just bad.. could that blow an apex??/

ghebert

I would wait for this guy to do your compression check before doing anything else. I will tell you from experience that when your trouble shooting problems and need to change parts the cheapest way to go is with used parts from salvage yard. It gets pretty expensive, I bought used leading and trailing for 40 and 50 bucks. I learned only after spending some serious cash on brand new parts that didn't fix my problems.

Rx7supra

i am waiting, thanks for the tip, i plan on buying used parts. autozone coils are something like $300 each (ouch) as pissed as i am about my problems i think its prolly better, i look at it as a learning experiance

danflex

Wow hey man sounds like you are having a hell of a time with your problem. I will try and help a little. First my 87' is doing the same thing that yours is.(lol) My exaughst was cherry red and absolutly no engine power. I thought for sure it was the Catalytic converters. Found some from a friend and tried them on her. No luck the car still has no power can't rev it up past 6,000. I don't beleive that I have any seals blown but who knows. When I had no cats on it it was very hard to run because the rotary engine needs a certain amount of back pressure. Once aI got it to 4,000 it would redline no problem. I noticed one thing though that when I unpluged my O2 sensor the problem amplified by 10. Maybee the simple answer is that we both need an O2 sensors?? ( the one on the manifold)

danflex

Before just getting new parts HAYNES makes a pretty good RX-7 manual for 15 dollares that will tell you all of the different resistances and ohms of different parts on our RX's. Get a multimeter and test those used parts so that you know that they are for sure good. Might help??? Oh test yours first to see if you need the others

Rx7supra

you know something funny, i bought 2 new o2 sensors and i let them sit there. i thought about putting them in and thought about it and thought about it, but never did.. i'll find out mondaywhat this guy says, i hope.. Did yours happen all the sudden??? and btw when buying used parts, i prolly never would have though to bring a voltometer, i prolly just would have chanced it ; ) (no really)

ghebert

When dealing with ignters be carefull when you check for resistance to follow closely the wires they tell you. Your talking high voltage spark capacity. The other thing is thats all you can check, as for the firering you need a special test box to check for actual fireing. And I agree with you this is a learning experience and a good investment is a multimeter to check your circuits and parts for the manuals recommended voltage and resisitance. Keeps us posted. Gary

ghebert

Hey Danflex, which manual is more user friendly, Mazda or Hayes? I have the Mazda. Gary

Rx7supra

i have hayes and i dont really think it helps. it does but the steps it takes to do every little thing make changing a spark plug a long drawn out proccess. (just an example i never really read the ook to change a spark plug) but it takes the dumbest thing and makes it last 2 hours.

danflex

I don't have the actuall Mazda manual I like the Haynes personaly I use them for all the vehicles that I service but I am sure that the Mazda book from the dealer is better. (in fact I am sure that it is).

danflex

Hey did anybody hear from RX-7 Supra to find out what the problems with his car actually were????
-Just curious-
Flex

Rx7supra

i have no compression on one rotor =\ guess i have no apex thanks for stayin tuned