I was driving when out of nowhere all but one of my dummy dash light came on???.
The car seems to be running fine when they came on.

So I turned the car completly off then back on. The dummy lights still came on.

So I again shut the car off completly. Popped the hood checked around really good at all my conection.

I then checked all my fluids. They where fine.

So then I pulled the negative battery cable for a few mintures came back conected the cable and started the car. STILL all but one light (SEAT BELT) came on.

Now I'm noticing that the volt meter is a little lower then it was before this happend.

I also check the green six port dionastics plug by the front coil pack with the LED method. Plugged them in turned the key to the on position ... the LEDs lit up for a few seconds and them shut off completly. They never flashed any signals. I even went as far as unplugging one of the sensors just to make sure I didn't do something right. But it flashed the right signals.

I also checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash by the fire wall. They where all good.


Someone please shed some light on this DAMN DUMMY LIGHT OF DOOM.

 

Check Your Alternator, Same thing happened to me a few years ago and it was shot. Does not hurt to check this out. Use the search button it is your friend.

 

^Alternator is dead and/or the belt snapped and/or the wiring is shot. Either way, you are running now off the battery and will quickly be dead.

 

If it is not your alternator, then it could be the cold solder in the dumby cluster. You can remove it and resolder all of the connections on the boards and see if that fixes it. I recently did this and now my clock works, woo hoo.

 

Do tests #3, #4, and #6 in the link below. Also, another test would be to place the red lead of the voltmeter on the B terminal, which is the large Black wire bolted to the side of the alternator, and place the Black lead of the meter to the negative battery terminal while the car is running and the DC voltage should be at least 14 volts.



http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/electrical.shtml

 

Ok thanks everyone that's has helped shed some light on this matter!

I had a feeling that the alt could be going out. Sence I have wired up a v8 ford thunderbird fan that sucks 30 amps off my whopping 70 amp alt. Plus I have had the ac system charged and running for the past few day being that its starting to get over 100 degrees everyday. Big load off a small alt.

I also had called a local alt rebuild shop in phx call A & M alternators about three days ago to rebuild my alt and pull more amps out of maybe around 110 - 120 amps by respinning the stater.

It could also explain why my rpms keep fluxuating from 650 - 800 rpms give or take.
I also notice that when I would turn the fan off by upping the t-stat temp that the car would balance out the rpms and bring them back to normal idle.


Once again thanks everyone! I do grealy appericiate the time and imput that everyone has givin me.
I will follow the link and test the volts on the alt and go from there.
I will probley check the imput point on the dummy cluster sence that damn clock keeps flickering on and off.

I will post my result of this.

 

Ok everyone was RIGHt like always!

I pulled the piece of poop of a 70 amp alternator off sent it to A & M Aternators to get it rebuilt and to beef up the stater.

It took about a week and i m VERY VER pleased with what I got back!

Instead of getting my 70amp alt rebuild he went above and beyond! He. Got me a 3rd gen 100 amp alt and pulled the stater out and beefed it up to 130 amps I only paid. $130.00 cash for a 3rd gen alt with 130 amps!!

I'm very happy with these guys as they are the only ones I could find who even rebuid alternator in phx az!

Came home got under the hood in 112 degree weather and slapped the beast in it works perfect!!!!
No more lights of DEATH!!!!!!!

Thanks guys for the helpful info!!!

Much appericiated!!!