2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

$700 tII will be mine tomarrow morning!!!

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Old May 16, 2003 | 11:09 AM
  #26  
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post some pics when you get it!! We want to see it.. 700.00 not a bad deal at all.
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Old May 16, 2003 | 07:38 PM
  #27  
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im gonna post them now.. as soon as i get them on my site and hosted... gimmie 15 min..
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Old May 16, 2003 | 08:48 PM
  #28  
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Pics of da $700 beast!!!!


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MUwahahahahahhhaaaaa!

I checked it all out today after i got it home... everything works, all the lights and accessories! Im gonna do a compression test as soon as the weather lets me, also change the fluids... then im gonna try to start this bitch up.

the breaks and clutch go to the floor.. and there is one little rust spot.. which is in the pic..

jaared

p.s. I do believe i ripped him off... i was offered $1500 for it already while i was washing it.. MUWAHAHHAAAHHA!
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Old May 17, 2003 | 01:56 AM
  #29  
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good ****!!! sounds like me. my 87TII found me also. $800 to take it away. and all i did was put the tid back on. and i had a running car. sweet!!!! have fun.


ej
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Old May 19, 2003 | 03:54 PM
  #30  
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ok guys..

I did a compression test today... how does 90 sound?
both of them are reading 90..

changed belts and oil.. not sure where the drain for the coolent is yet but imm lookin... well anyway

It turned over a few times long enouf to check compression.... now it wont turn over... it just clicks..
i think the starter may be bad.. i was thinking/dreading that it might be carbon lock... i backed the motor a little and tried again... still just clicks..

looks like im gonna need a starter..

also the car has no gas in it.. wont that messup the injectors?

will the compression get any higher after the car is run? remember now it sat for almost 3 years. It was running before it got parked but had a high idle (2500 - 2800). still have to check that out once i get it runnin.

sounds like starter?

jaared
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Old May 19, 2003 | 04:11 PM
  #31  
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The clicking is most likely a low/drained battery.

Seriously.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 05:19 PM
  #32  
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Red face


i am envious!!! though I think u gonna need to do somthing about the interior...red carpeting is just not my thing....
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Old May 19, 2003 | 05:53 PM
  #33  
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drained battery? really? i turned on the lights.. stitched to brights... they shine really bright..

the only errors im getting from my message center are parking brake and back hatch.. with is correct at the time.

hmm im gonna put the battery on the charger and see if that helps it.

Drain the radiatior??? umm where is the petcock? ha petcock.. funny word.. alot like bung, ohh sorry umm yea so really where is the drain for the rad?

im shootin for under 1000 to have a daily driver TII with 20k on the engine... looks like im gonna have money to spare.

jaared
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Old May 19, 2003 | 06:33 PM
  #34  
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Originally posted by Jaared
Drain the radiatior??? umm where is the petcock? ha petcock.. funny word.. alot like bung, ohh sorry umm yea so really where is the drain for the rad?
Both of these sites have a service manual online. Be sure to follow the coolant changing procedures or you will end up with air in your system. If you change the thermostat, only use a Mazda brand thermostat, as the aftermarket thermostats are junk.
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
http://fc3s.org/

Originally posted by Jaared
im shootin for under 1000 to have a daily driver TII with 20k on the engine... looks like im gonna have money to spare.
Hehehe, you will get nickel and dimed to death.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by Evil Aviator
.

Hehehe, you will get nickel and dimed to death.
i plan on modding this car not all for power.. but i want to try to make it fast and reliable... some day. right now i know i need to get the reliable part out of the way (sounds easy dosent it, ha!) then move on to mods...

Like the exhaust has a hole in the pipe between the cats.
**Im gonna relpace with 3 inch catback and DP. then get a FCD.

I put a cone filter on it today. Fixed a vaccume leak (TID) while I was installing the filter.

I know the free flow will break my 1000 goal (HA!).
But I did get the car for 700 and I have about $35 extra in it now. So nickel and dimen' is ok thats how I do it.

I plan to make just about everything.. my friend has a integra he spent $16k on..(moron!) I want to kick his *** with a car for 1500 or so total invested. hell it will do that stock but im used to goin fast so if this car can impress me, Ill put some money into it.

WHAT ABOUT MY COMPESSION OF 90-95... is that good?


jaared
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:11 PM
  #36  
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yea it probly has a exhuast leak that **** up the back pressure hence makin the car run like sh*t, been there don that!! replace the whole exhuast system with performance then it should run fine!!
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:15 PM
  #37  
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it hasent ran in 3 years... was running then.. and got parked due to high idle.. (prob a vaccume leak).

looks like the hole is from sitting.

ALL the seals have been replaced and the engine has 20k on it. New axle(s)/ boot(s).
I cleaned it up more today and lookin better the more I do.

jaared
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:19 PM
  #38  
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nice!! still check to exhaust though cos any little leak can screw up on how it runs, back pressure opens up ur 5 and 6th ports any leak is bad!! or could be a vac. leak!!PEACE!!
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Jaared
i plan on modding this car not all for power.. but i want to try to make it fast and reliable... some day. right now i know i need to get the reliable part out of the way (sounds easy dosent it, ha!) then move on to mods...
From your signature, it looks like you are used to fixing up cars. However, the TII RX-7 is going to nickel and dime you worse than normal, even for the basic reliability work. It's OK, but just be aware of it. Making your own components and doing your own work will help, of couse.

Originally posted by Jaared
WHAT ABOUT MY COMPESSION OF 90-95... is that good?
You should have gotten 3 readings from each rotor, something like 90/91/89. Also, your altitude and cranking speed will affect the results. The Pre-Delivery chapter of the service manual shows the standards for the Mazda test equipment. Generally, once it gets down to 75, or more than 20 psi between any of the three chambers of a rotor, your engine is toast.
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Old May 19, 2003 | 08:37 PM
  #40  
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ahh ok

looks like i got more compressin to do.
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