Jaared

Ok guys im getting my first rx7 in the morning...

It is a 1987 TII, new tires, power everything, red cloth int in good shape, 5 speed, motor was replaced by a car shop where it sits now. The shop went out of business/ was sold to the owner of a car lot about a mile down the road. I was told the engine they got had 20k miles on it. Once they put it in they couldnt get it to "run right".. I was told it idled high like 2500 or so and they couldnt get it to idle down..then it had problems starting at all.

Im hoping that they didnt have the idle set right, then flooded it.. They didnt say anything about smokeing.. just problems with idle.

The motor shows no sign of oil leaks, the hoses look new, so do the belts.. altho the belt for the alternator is missing..

I put a hundred down, going back with a tow dolly to get it in the morning..

**I have a question tho.. they put a new motor in it and it has the silver metal (dunno if its stainless steel or what) trim around the IC.. Says intercooled turbo II on it..

I thought that was only on the 89-91 TIIs??!? I guess they put a 89-91 motor in it..**

With help from everyone on here i hope it get it up and going soon.. I guess I need to know where to start.
The car has been sitting for almost 2 years.

* I guess first off i need to replace all fluids
* Do a compression test? What should it read to?
* Umm take lots of pics and post them on here for everyone to check out.

I guess until it get it crank and see what is goin on with smoke or lack of ill know a little more about what is up with this "new" motor.

Please gimmie any ideas of what to do and look out for.

Thanks,
Jared
-------------------------------------------------------------
new addition to the rx7 owners club.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

the writing on the IC between the series 4 and series 5 stayed the same...its the j-spec IC that has the different writing

Jaared

o... well where do i start when it comes to getting this thing to be reliable...

SaabGuy

intake leaks are a bitch for idle. First get yourself armed with carb cleaner or starting fluid and spray away. These cars has flapper airflow meters and idle like absolute crap with intake leaks. Ether or carb cleaner will pinpoint leaks pretty easily.

Then adjust idle speed screws - one on BAC and probably the main stop screw has been played with as well.

Adjust timing per service manual instructions.

If 86-88 model, adjust idle mixture per manuals instrucitons. Good luck!! I bought my t2 with 141k original miles, thought it was blown, and its now got 152k miles pushing 300rwhp!

OH and a compression test will rule out a faulty motor in under 10 mintues.

Ryde _Or_Die

Looks like it got a jspec put in. Every says they have no more than 30k on them, but you never really know how they were treated, so I wouldn't count on the engine for too long. Doing a compression test should tell you how long it will last though.

Jaared

jspec? i know that means the jap model but.. how, why, and ummm what difference is it gonna make?

Then is there some way to tell? I mean most cars have a code on the block to let you know.. I was in to air cooled vw's.. they had em... hondas have em.. b16 and such.. where do i look for the code on this beast to see what iv got?

getting all excited about a car im prolly not gonna get to drive for almost 3 weeks!

Ryde _Or_Die

People put jspecs in because its a cheap running motor. Usually for like a grand you can get a jspec. A rebuild costs at least double that most places.

Jaared

He paid 1700 for the engine.. he showed me the invoice... it said the engine had 20k miles on it. The odo reads 114k.

In hondas and most import cars the jspec engines have more power and are stronger... it that also true with these funny little motors? How would i check to see what it really is?

jaared

Ryde _Or_Die

No it would be the same power, unless its an S4 and they put an S5 engine in it. If anyone paid $1700 for a used engine, they got ripped off. You can get a rebuilt one for like $2000 with a 2 year, 24k mile warranty.

Jaared

maybe so... he seemed to be somewhat lost with the rotary thing... thats why i got the car for $700.. he said it is "beyond his capabilities".. But are you talking about just the block for 2000... I pretty sure he got the whole setup.. turbo, ecu and all.

jaared

Ryde _Or_Die

Well I have no idea what he got, but jspecs come with the turbo and everything usually. Sometimes an upgraded one even.

jon1234f

the 87 model was intercooled, my friend has one and i am looking at one.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

geez...know I know why you guys bid such low-ball prices on parts. $700.00 for the whole damn car. Man, I just laid down 1200 for a full microtech lt12 with wide band

Jaared

so i guess ill just have to wait till i do a compression check.. once that checks out ok (it better! ) ill be ready to move on to the next step... umm and that step is? Ipushed in on the clutch today and it went to the floor... puylled it back out with my foot... im guessing its hydrolic and just low, does that sound right?

jaared

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

could need bled or just adjusted. When I swapped clutches in my old nissan the adjustment was waaaaay out and the pedal would stick to the floor. So, first I'd say play with the adjustment rod on the back of the pedal. If that doesn't change anything, bleed the system.

Evil Aviator

The fluid could be low, but it's probably a blown clutch slave cylinder. Follow the line from the master cylinder, and it will lead down to the top of the transmission where you will probably find a leak in the torn rubber seal of the slave cylinder. The blown slave cylinder is a common problem with the FC at this age, but it is very easy to replace, and you can get the part cheap from your local generic auto parts store. If the braided line looks like it needs to be replaced, you can get a really cool stainless steel replacement line here:
http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=206&1=334&3=559

It sounds like you got a good deal. A TII with a blown engine usually sells for $500-800.

If you have the money, you may want to consider installing a standalone EMS rather than messing with that old, nasty, factory setup. You would want to verify the compression is good first, and give it a few tries with what you have, of course, but a standalone EMS will not only run your engine better than stock, but it will also allow for tuning as you add performance modifications.

Jaared

Umm EMS? im curious... old nasty factory setup? Scary stuff...

Let me know a little more about this EMS thing...

jaared

klrbee7

iTrader: (8)

Good deal man !! i have been trying to look for one also. for 700 bucks woweeeee.. have fun with it ! !

gsracer

EMS = Engine Management System.

There are a couple of options here. The most popular are haltech and microtech. Both of these options will ditch the stock ecu completely, as well as eliminating the restrictive AFM before the turbo inlet.

The stock computer is slow, old, and outdated. However I'm not nearly as much as a hater of the stock ecu as I've noticed evil aviator to be Really it all depends on what you want out of your car. An e6k or lt8 is going to cost you as much as you spent on the car. If you don't mind spending 2 or 3k dollars from this point you do have the potential to have a very sweet car.

Honestly though a stand alone engine management system is probably the best thing someone in your position could do. Switching to stand alone on a stock car isn't going to be a giant jump in power, and it might seem better to spend money in other places...trust me it's not. The stand alone of your choice can grow with you and the car as you add on various bits and peices to the car. Switch to a stand alone now and you won't be part of the ''I blew up my engine running a fcd on the stock ecu'' club....which I notice is consistently getting larger every day that passes. Congrats on the sweet find.

Jaared

Im getting the car in the morning... he wanted $1000 cuz of the "new" engine... i talked him down to 700 using smoke and mirrors... talkin about problems with the car that were, well made up.

Anyway.. I say the car and it looks great... well the paint needs a little help but i got that covered already..

I need to know where to start when i bring home the car in the morning.. what to do first.. Id like to get this thing running asap. Not to rush it.. but if it wont run i dont wanna spend anymore money on it till i price drive train problems (if there are any)

any help or sites u know of that can help me?
My to do list so far =
*compression check - 85 to 125 is good?
*change fluids - all of em!
*vaccume hoses - all 11212 of em
*brakes - I like to stop
*new thermostat - mazda only I read..

Umm to try to start it i should:

*charge/test battery
*add some atf to each lower plug hole and hand crank
*remove the fuze thingie and do the unflood thing
*cross fingers
*Watch smoke from atf
*cuss and kick own *** for buying a car that dosent run
*recover from trama and try again to crank it (after unflood thing)

they said it idled high when it did run.. so i figure if i can get it to run idleing high or not.. I can workwith it from there.

Ok now what part of my list is wrong or did I forget?

jaared

Jaared

bump?

slow87turbo

you dont have to do the atf thing. i have heard it can eat at the seals.just some good injector cleaner in the fuel tank.and look to see if the tb isnt sticking open a little to cause the high idle.

ej

Jaared

i was gonna do the atf thing to help with compression.. its been sitting.. So should i use 2 stroke oil? reg motor oil? or nothing at all.... i guess it all depends on the readings from the compression test.

Ryde _Or_Die

You can try some MMO instead of using ATF. Its not so harsh and should give you some good results.

Jaared

Well its time.. im going to go get it now... Ill post pics later today.. a little after lunch time.

p.s. I can host pics if you ask me using the words "now" and "damnit"

jaared