$6,000+ to spend on my '88 SE.. What to do??
#1
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$6,000+ to spend on my '88 SE.. What to do??
How are yall doing, I just got out of "A" school in the united states navy, and i am going to be sent over to corpus christi, TX. I have received a 6,000 dollar signing bonus to do my job, and as well i am going to take out a 2-3 thousand dollar loan. I want to my my rx-7 SE fast... and i mean as fast as i can for the money.
My options in my opinion from what i have researched is..
13B 1988 engine with 89 rotors and housings with 3 mm apex seals... Bridge porting.. and everything else done... i was quoted at about 4 grand on the engine.
I'd like to get a stage 3 centerforce or act clutch, with a 12 lb (atleast) flywheel. A fluidyne radiator is a must, as well as a nice ignition setup. Im looking at some Rota wheels, but i'd like the lightest setup of rims possible.
new springs and shocks and struts are also a must.
I was thinking of an Apex'i N1 Dual exaust... or something that puts out as much or more..
Any ideas??? Build me my car...
Thanks.
Justin
My options in my opinion from what i have researched is..
13B 1988 engine with 89 rotors and housings with 3 mm apex seals... Bridge porting.. and everything else done... i was quoted at about 4 grand on the engine.
I'd like to get a stage 3 centerforce or act clutch, with a 12 lb (atleast) flywheel. A fluidyne radiator is a must, as well as a nice ignition setup. Im looking at some Rota wheels, but i'd like the lightest setup of rims possible.
new springs and shocks and struts are also a must.
I was thinking of an Apex'i N1 Dual exaust... or something that puts out as much or more..
Any ideas??? Build me my car...
Thanks.
Justin
#3
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Ditch the single-piston brake system if you haven't done that already.
SS brake lines, 4-piston calipers and 5-lug conversion. New springs and shocks all around will also help out.
If you are doing all that to the engine, then convert the drivetrain over to a TII drivetrain. Tranny/driveshaft/rearend/halfshafts.
This will hold up to the immense power much better.
SS brake lines, 4-piston calipers and 5-lug conversion. New springs and shocks all around will also help out.
If you are doing all that to the engine, then convert the drivetrain over to a TII drivetrain. Tranny/driveshaft/rearend/halfshafts.
This will hold up to the immense power much better.
#5
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Here's a mint 89 for $5k http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=11813 with the extra couple grand you could put a MicroTech on it...
#6
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If you want some nice power, go turbo. When you do a bridge port, the full exaust, fuel system, and everything else.....then your buddy with a T2 puts a fcd, and an exaust on his car, then goes out and smokes you...you'll wonder why you ever did it. Trust me- I know bolth sides of the equation. CJ
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I thought about getting a TII, but i dont know if i want it... i looked at one for 3g stock... but i really dont know if i want to go through the mess of buying and selling cars again.. i would probably be better off and all though in the long run. I would just swap a TII engine and driveline, but ive been told its a costly swap and too much of a hassle..
Justin
Justin
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#8
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Sell it for $3000, and buy a mint Turbo II for $5000. You then have $4000 to spend on go-fast, and turn-fast parts.
Or get a GTUs. Rare, exclusive and sexy! RarestRX will agree.
Or get a GTUs. Rare, exclusive and sexy! RarestRX will agree.
#9
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Originally posted by ZachSpazz
Sell it for $3000, and buy a mint Turbo II for $5000. You then have $4000 to spend on go-fast, and turn-fast parts.
Sell it for $3000, and buy a mint Turbo II for $5000. You then have $4000 to spend on go-fast, and turn-fast parts.
Or get a GTUs. Rare, exclusive and sexy! RarestRX will agree.
No kidding Rarest RX will agree. I'm surprised he hasnt chimed in yet
#10
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I would sell it... but unfortunatly i was hit before i went into boot camp... so its not worth too much now.. its fixed and all.. But it has 160,000 miles on it.
I love that Brap Brap brap brap sound of bridge port
NOs NOS!!!
I love that Brap Brap brap brap sound of bridge port
NOs NOS!!!
#11
Eat, sleep, work, mod.
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if you aren't exactly mechanically inclined the swap can be expensive but the real rotor-heads can do it well and have the car running in 2 days (provided you have all the right parts). A run-of-the-mill tuning shop will likely charge you looooooots of money to swap motors as they don't know the first thing about these cars. 6k can build a mean NA...first step I would go for is paint (unless the car really doesn't need it). Figure $1500 for a nice paint job using the stock color... Then suspension (Tein coilovers, maybe run you 1500 installed). So now your car looks gorgeous and has some great suspension pieces...I say find yourself some nice 16x8 wheels and meaty 225/50 tires (16's will look sweet, handle great and save you some $ on a larger setup). lets say $850 for new wheels/tires...then a set of more aggressive pads (Hawk makes nice stuff) and stainless lines which should net about $200 for combined.
-so now your car looks sweet, and handles better than nearly any new sports car around...time to make a little power!! You've got about 2 grand left for some bolt ons and I'd go with the tried and true NA upgrades (first make sure your motor is healthy...full major tune-up). intake, racepipe/midpipe, a nice dual exhaust (the new racingbeat stuff is nice, the Apexi Dual N1 is also a work of art and a little more aggressive), crank pulley, aluminum flywheel and upgraded clutch. Now you've added 20 rwhp in the top of the rev range (wire your 6 ports or go w/ a lot of the cheap DIY actuation methods). Aside from paint and flywheel you can perform all these mods yourself with hand tools and a friend or two...in the future you could think about chassis bracing and if the power bug really hits you (and you've become more experienced with your car) a TII swap on the NA drivetrain can be a DIY thing. Plus you'll already have an upgraded drivetrain, suspension and exhaust to take all that extra power/stress. I'd say w/ the load of money you have build a WELL rounded and balanced NA and wait for a motor swap/rebuild for later The mods I've outlined would make you a killer on any road course and you could eat up cars with much more power costing a lot more $$. the 4 lug brakes are more than adequate w/ good pads/lines/fluid IMO
-so now your car looks sweet, and handles better than nearly any new sports car around...time to make a little power!! You've got about 2 grand left for some bolt ons and I'd go with the tried and true NA upgrades (first make sure your motor is healthy...full major tune-up). intake, racepipe/midpipe, a nice dual exhaust (the new racingbeat stuff is nice, the Apexi Dual N1 is also a work of art and a little more aggressive), crank pulley, aluminum flywheel and upgraded clutch. Now you've added 20 rwhp in the top of the rev range (wire your 6 ports or go w/ a lot of the cheap DIY actuation methods). Aside from paint and flywheel you can perform all these mods yourself with hand tools and a friend or two...in the future you could think about chassis bracing and if the power bug really hits you (and you've become more experienced with your car) a TII swap on the NA drivetrain can be a DIY thing. Plus you'll already have an upgraded drivetrain, suspension and exhaust to take all that extra power/stress. I'd say w/ the load of money you have build a WELL rounded and balanced NA and wait for a motor swap/rebuild for later The mods I've outlined would make you a killer on any road course and you could eat up cars with much more power costing a lot more $$. the 4 lug brakes are more than adequate w/ good pads/lines/fluid IMO
#14
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I've done a few engine swaps before, so i have a good idea what im doing, im also an airframer in the united states navy (hydraulic work, air frame work). Im pretty good with my hands. Ive talked to a guy who has done a swap with a N/A before and he said it really isnt as bad as it seems. Ive swapped a CRX engine before, and my buddy and i swapped a Talon TSI engine into a talon DL. (of course he did the wiring). So its not out of reach for me. Why would a N/A engine die so fast from what your saying? My n/a has 160,000 on it and has all of its records.
it has perfect paint too so thats out of the way..
Im thinking of getting the engine through mazdaracing.com
Lata
it has perfect paint too so thats out of the way..
Im thinking of getting the engine through mazdaracing.com
Lata
#15
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Originally posted by Rx-7Addict
Sounds like the best plan to me
GTUs are nice, but youll still get killed by the T2 owner with an exhaust even with significant mods.
No kidding Rarest RX will agree. I'm surprised he hasnt chimed in yet
Sounds like the best plan to me
GTUs are nice, but youll still get killed by the T2 owner with an exhaust even with significant mods.
No kidding Rarest RX will agree. I'm surprised he hasnt chimed in yet
I am going to leave out the GTUs rant for now and ask Mx6-Rx7 Addict an question. When you are talking "as fast as possible" what are your plans for the car? You going drag racing, street drag racing, road racing, Auto-x? Is this going to be your daily driver? All these questions need to be answered so you can build a quality car that will suit your exact needs.
#16
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Yo,
I agree!
*grin*
Kevin
1989 GTUs "I second that motion!"
Originally posted by ZachSpazz
Or get a GTUs. Rare, exclusive and sexy! RarestRX will agree.
Or get a GTUs. Rare, exclusive and sexy! RarestRX will agree.
*grin*
Kevin
1989 GTUs "I second that motion!"
#17
Of the 2nd gens, I like GTU and T2. GTU is the fastest NA and the 91 models look flawless. T2 is very nice but more maintainance and less lasting I think.
With 6 grand, I think a great condition GTU should be within reach. Maybe you can even get a T2 that is in good condition too. Why bother fixing things up with you can start with a low mileage one that's been pampered?
With 6 grand, I think a great condition GTU should be within reach. Maybe you can even get a T2 that is in good condition too. Why bother fixing things up with you can start with a low mileage one that's been pampered?
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