TurboSmoke

i found a 20b for sale for 2800 has one blown Apex seal the other 2 rotors have good compression. comes with turbos and all needed acessories for the motor i would not cost much to replace one apex seal would it?? what do you think??? thanks i want to put it in my FC

redstreak

Well that sounds pretty good to me especially if you do the rebuild on it yourself. But putting it into an FC may be really expensive.

darkwaveboi

run on it using only 2 rotors j/k umm..yeah...

Greg

no, not for a blown one

RETed

Uh, $1,000 for a rebuilt kit...
If you need to find a rotor or rotor housing, you can add several more hundred.
You even know how to take apart a 20B?&nbsp You need an SST to remove the front center housing from the rest of the engine.

That thing isn't worth more than a grand to somebody who needs another 20B engine for parts.

You got $15,000 to do the swap yourself?

I can find GOOD running 20B's for that much money - it's a total rip for a blown one.


-Ted

TurboSmoke

so you think it will run me 15 k to put it in my FC??

TurboSmoke

i found it lol

Rx-7Addict

iTrader: (2)

That is a rip off

Ive seen lower milleage (25-40k) 20Bs for sale for slightly more than that.

Although seeing "20B" certainly sounds tempting, watch out it gets expensive.

It will cost at least $10,000 additional to install that into an FC. A lot for an FD too.

Good luck

RETed

YES.



-Ted

TurboSmoke

so i should stick to a 13b and deck it out

Stepdaddy

u can find 20b's all day at ebay and some NZ site, i dont even want one and i see em everywere

Dyre

$2k would be a good price for a j-spec good running long block.

$10k is about the absolute min of $$$ you need to install one into a FC, and thats if you do EVERYTHING yourself.

TurboSmoke

i think i will stick to a 13b turbo

Evil Aviator

There is a lot of custom work, and the "little things" really add up.

The EMS isn't all that expensive unless you get a Motec M800. However, the ignition system is much more expensive than you may think. Just about any aftermarket EMS will run the 20B, but split timing for emissions requires a second EMS. Some of the newest EMS units on the market claim to be able to run the emissions split, but I have yet to see this actually work.

Plan on at least another $10K for the single turbo system, not including the $7K transmission, $1K differential, and other hardened driveline components that you will need if you really push the boost. The turbo size would depend on your porting, redline, boost level, etc. A T-61 would give about the same output as the stock twins IMO, so I think that this would be your minimum size to "push a 20b", as you say.

MaxRX7

NOT a good price, and I bet it is the rear rotor that has the blown apex seal.

Kurgan

Yer smokin' crack!

10k for a single upgrade? Not!

You can get a T-76 of any number of turbonetics turbos for less than $1300.

Then you need to make a manifold... $40 for a block flange, $20 for a T04 flange, and your wastegate should come with a flange. Then, prolly about $150-200 on piping and bends from burnsstainless... that comes out to rougly $300 for a manifold.

Then you need a BIG wastegate, recommend HKS GT, they list for $550 or so, but can be had for < $500.

Oil lines, at most another $200

Tranny, get an MKIII supra from a junkyard for $250.

Bellhousing adapter, a place in sydney sells the MKIII to 13b adapter for $400 AUD, thats roughly $225.

You will need to spend about $1000 on the rearend.

You'll also need to make a downpipe... $200 at most.

Grand total = $3995 extra.... far cry from 10k. But, I suppose if you were to go with a geforece tranny, and have someone build you a $1200 manifold, 10k would be about right.

blu_gxl

ok first how much boost can one runn on the stock 20b turbos?

you realy only need 4-5 maybe 6 punds to have a good amount of power. also i thought it would be WAY more than 15k on this swap, wow now i'm thinking of this once i get out of school, also 2800 is very high like everyone else said i've seen them for 3k and less woking order, and kurgan you need to budget a bit more for th bell housing adapter since it's going to a 20b not a 13b

james

Evil Aviator

If you doubt me, then go ahead and try to do it for less. It won't bother me a bit.


Pettit runs 15psig on stock parallel turbos for 550bhp output. They can run a little more boost, but then reliability suffers. The 13B transmission adapter would probably work on the 20B, just as long as it is not intended for a top-mount starter. It's some of his other budgeting methods which need some revision IMO.

RETed

Boy, these people don't learn, huh Evil Aviator?

$3,000 for engine
$1,000 for turbo
$200 for turbo manifold
$200 pair o Walbros
$300 aftermarket FPR, fittings, and hoses (the stock FPR cannot control the double Walbros)
$300 new clutch (you were going to use your old stock one? )
$200 larger radiator (you think your stock FC rad is going to work? )
$200 FMIC (I assume you're going to scrounge for this)
$500 Microtech (try to use stock ECU? )
$200 ignition coils (does the Microtech come with coils?)
$500 miscellaneous hoses, piping, spark plug wires, engine mounts, etc.

This is assuming you're keeping:
-current exhaust system
-stock fuel injectors on 20B

This is also assuming you're getting ALL the labor for free.&nbsp Prices are for components only.&nbsp Man, either you're one talented fabricator or your buddies owe a WHOLE lot to you!

Yep, I count $7,000 with that budget...&nbsp This will barely make 350hp, as the stock fuel injectors cannot support any higher power output.&nbsp You'll also roast the clutch anyways with anything higher than that.&nbsp The "turbo" is also priced a little cheaper cause you've been ranting about being able to pick up a "used or second-hand" one for cheaper - a NEW T76 costs over $1,500!&nbsp So in the end, you have a 20B swap that cannot come close to 400hp at this point...$7,000, sheez!&nbsp Throw $7,000 at a 13BT, and it'll do 500hp!



-Ted

Evil Aviator

Yeah, I figure that they can just try it out themselves if they don't believe us - same thing goes for running split timing with a 5-channel EMS. I guess you can always try a cheapie conversion, but I'm not sure how well that would work with such a complex project, as there is already enough frustration as it is without dealing with substandard components. Also, I don't think that you can just go by a component list, as everyone will have a different conversion method, and it depends a lot on one's resources and skills.

BTW Ted, my costs for everything in your list (less engine) were about twice what you quoted. I paid way more than that for my FMIC and clutch. I have some sponsors, and about half of my labor is free, so I really feel sorry for those with full retail pricing as the only option.

RETed

These guys were bitching about the prices (I usually use close to retail on NEW stuff), so I trimmed it down a bit to add a fudge factor for finding "bargains" somewhere on the web...

Welp, it looks very close to $10,000...
In reality, for most people it'll cost TWICE as much for most of those components.



-Ted

Kurgan

My $3995 extra is for going from a running stock twin turbo setup to a large single turbo.

And no, the bell housing adapter is the same as the 13b.

I know it costs a lot... My car already had a competent fuel system and a Haltech, so it wasn't too bad for me...

6-puck clutch disk from clutchnet - 177
FJO wideband - 962 (but I split this with a friend)
2 more leading coils - 60
1 more 1680cc injector - 97.33
flow matching 3 1680cc injectors - 83
new silicon hoses - 69.85
pack of 10 B10EGV spark plugs - 59.31
J&S knock sensor - 350
J&S Dual Display - 183
17 lb flywheel - 355
new wiring harness for haltech - 50
parts for 20b rebuild - 1340.50
engine - 2500
battery relocation kit & hoodpins - 73.35
Fluidyne radiator - 412
Hybrid IC - 580
Rebuild and porting w/ custom fuel rails - 1500
random shipping charges - 276
motor mounts - 450
new UIM and TB - 160
Custom TB adapter - 175

I still need to buy aluminum piping for the intercooler, heater hoses, pay for the primaries to be cleaned, get some larger tires for the back (I'm running 215s right now), figure out what to do with the sway bar, make new fuel lines from the firewall, make a new oil cooler line... and probably some more stuff....

Lets see, Ive spent $9,433, and I'm not done yet... I suspect I'll be spending another grand, maybe a bit less in the things that I have left to do... And this is with the single turbo conversion.

Later this summer, I'm getting a rollcage, so that will be another 1-2k, next year, I'll be doing the single turbo upgrade and probably swiching to an E11 so I can run Split timing... so, all in all, assuming the E11 is $1500, I will have spend right about $17,000.

No, its not cheap. Is it as expensive as everyone says? It depends... some of the stuff i bought, you wouldn't hae to buy.. I am getting my engine rebuilt all fresh and new, which will flow a LOT better on the exhaust side...

But, I started with a 430 bhp car to begin with... so I'm saving some money in certain places... Oh yeah, I have a black magic fan too

I will do the single turbo upgrade for less than $5000. I will finish this car (well, for now, you know how it is ) for under 20k.... if you want to do it right... thats what its gonna cost. Sure, you can do it cheaper... but I want KING **** OF **** MOUNTAIN under my hood.

Did I know what I was getting into?
Yes.
Do I regret anything?
Nope.
Would I do it again?
DAMN STRAIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

peejay

Aww jeez. It's a 20B. Street port the bitch (you need to rebuild it anyway) and run it N/A. You'll make about 300hp at the flywheel but you'll have a torque curve that any 13B would die for.