celbii

iTrader: (2)

Definitely dont take it! Goto places like autotrader.com and print out ad's for 7's that were like yours condition wise and mileage. Also show receipts for everything else you've spent on it and give them a counter offer and the autotrader stuff and receipts to backup your counteroffer price.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that's what I thought about too. The thing with mines is that its a swap. A 89 GXL to a Turbo. Here's whats been done

Series 5 Tii Swap from Tiger Japanese (mines was/still is good lucky me) 1100
Koyo rad 330
Momo wheel 250
Hub Adapter 100
Stereo 100

That's all I told him that day. Forgot RB exhaust(700 bucks) etc Dont burn me now
Also told him that the engine only had about 50000 miles on it and the body had
160k on it. I believe that the car is at least in fair condition maybe a little better.
He didnt ask for any receipts at that time but I do have them.

Should I get some from 90 and 91 too? Or just look for 89s? Look for non turbos and turbos?

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Ive looked at autotrader, cars.com, KKB, Edmunds, ETC.

Seems like a lot of places go off of KBB. Auto trader, Cars and KBB are average of 4000k+. And its either a GXL or Turbo with 50 thousand miles or 100k just to go in between. If they do give it a savage title then I want 4k+. If they dont savage title it then 3 something is good I think.

celbii

iTrader: (2)

Print out them ad's then and look all over. Look in the for sale section of cars here also.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

That insurance guy just sent me the over view. And that **** pissed me off. Im gonna get him good for that.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Got the review from the insurance company!!!

They basically said that car was dirty (but of course its winter now who wants to clean their car in the cold). Mold, burn marks, tears, fading, things missing gauges and control *****, carpet torn, paint chipping off, more than 3 scrapes up to 6 credit cards in length, cracks inside and out, peeling paint, Large tears and cracks on inner trim. He said much more than this too.

Then about the engine bay. Belts or accessories disconnected, need replacement or possibly not working. Corrosion noticeable. Extensive oil or fuild leakage. Pooling in compartments.

Transmission time. Transmission requires slight to moderate work but still drives. Clutch slipping. Extensive oil leaks.

Oh and he said my tires were in good condition too 30-70% tread left. But they suck! Barely any tread left. WTF is this guy smoking...

Im like WTF is he talking about. Yeah it was cold out when he came to look at it and there was snow on my car. But damn WTF. I have a new clutch. As if he drove it. Just for this, he's gonna get a piece of me. Damn bastard. Im gonna clean the car and have no snow on it and bluff the bitch out. Then have him come look at it again. For pictures of my car look here

http://www.jdmcity.com/showthread.php?t=685

its the white rx7 pictures before and after the Turbo Tii swap. They have diff plates but same car.

ecko

iTrader: (57)

damm too many accidents now with FC's cant be worse as mine.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

So I told him what I thought and that 2600-2700 isn't kool to total my car. He told me I could show him what they go for (with links) then and average them up. This is what I sent him. Lol how much do you think he'll give after looking at this? He also said that it'd be outrageous if I asked for $5k. Lol.



Here are links on ALL I have found. No matter what the price was. As you look at them you can see why some sell it for "cheap" prices of $2k (and below) and you can see why in their descriptions. As for the higher priced one, $3-6k, their cars run good and healthy and still in good condition (better than average based on the review that got sent to me). For the really high priced ones, $6k plus, their cars are in tip top shape. Years searched were 89-91 since all were the same except for what year it was made. You might have to copy the link and then paste it.


http://www.cars.com/go/search/search_results.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&searchType=21& sort=true&pageNumber=0&numResultsPerPage=50&largeN umResultsPerPage=0&sortorder=ascending&sortfield=Y EAR%2cPRICE+descending&certifiedOnly=false&criteri a=K-|E-|M-_30_|D-_284_|N-N|R-10000|I-1%2c7|P-PRICE+descending|Q-descending|Z-55117&sortId=&aff=national


http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/search...first_record=1


https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/f-s-91-na-rx7-804854/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-1991-coupe-n-los-angeles-rebuilt-813999/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/1990-gxl-fs-nj-812757/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-91-na-rx7-796398/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/89-rx-7-gtu-%243000-obo-dfw-area-811548/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-gtus-tii-pgh-%243000-obo-790241/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-89-gtu-southern-il-813236/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-90-convertible-5-speed-sharp-car-804359/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-1990-gxl-803590/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-red-1991-rx7-socal-562-a-810880/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/clean-1991-fc3s-gxl-805970/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-1990-rx7-gxl-89-500-miles-811909/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/89-tii-sale-%241000-obo-808462/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/1989-gtus-sale-45k-miles-810566/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-1989-vert-saphire-blue-804318/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-90-rx7-t2-swap-804305/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-vehicles-108/fs-1990-turbo-ii-rx7-conversion-athens-ga-4k-obo-811272/

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1991-Mazda-RX7-5-spd-Rotary-13B-F-I-in-Texas_W0QQitemZ300287961267QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20Truc ksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash =item300287961267&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms= 72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1991-RX7-Convertible-TRIPLE-BLACK-EXTRA-LOW-Miles_W0QQitemZ250359993823QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20Truc ksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash =item250359993823&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms= 72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1991-RX7-RX-7-Mazda-Stats-doesnt-shift-fix-parts_W0QQitemZ280302530702QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20Truc ksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash =item280302530702&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms= 72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___Completely-Restored-1989-RX7-Turbo_W0QQitemZ270332246584QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20Truc ksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash =item270332246584&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms= 72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318



Averages
Cars.com is $4787
Autotrader.com is $5344
rx7club.com sales are $3291
Ebay "But It Now" is $4587

All Four Come To $4502


As you might not be able to believe. The Series 5 Mazda RX7,1989-1991, is still pricey hence the age and/or the mileage. Just like the newer brother which is the Series 6 Mazda RX7, 1993-1995 (a 1992 model wasn't officially made in the US), still go for $14k to $18k in good condition. Especially, when the rotary engine only gets 17MPG in the city. It still sells for a big amount just because of what it is. This is not a car some random person would buy (not like a Honda or Toyota). It's a sports car based off of the Porsche 944. With the one of a kind Rotary engine found only in the RX7 and new RX8 models. Only repairable/understood by very few people and only "some" Mazda Dealers Techs actually know what they're doing when repairing. It's not some push over car like the common Honda or what ever else you would want to compare it with. It's an one of a kind sports car, and that is only one reason why it is pricey for its age. It's known for winning/ranking very well in numerous events using a Rotary Engine. Another reason it might be pricier than other cars that are around the same age.

I'll be waiting for your call.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I would have taken the $2,700 man, it doesn't sound like it's in the best condition and the black hood and rims don't help any for the looks dept. Youc ould have taken that 3 grand and fixed your little dent and had plenty left to play with. The insurance company isn't going to be duped into paying $4500 for a car that isn't worth it.

I had an '88 GXL in mint condition w/ 80,000 miles that was totaled $3700 about 8 yrs ago, the money was more than enough to fix the damage and make a profit too.

celbii

iTrader: (2)

I think they will go higher than 2700.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I dunno, I mean I hope it gets fixed, just not an optimist when it comes to some things. Good luck anyways, keep us posted.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Well, I have to replace one fender which is like 50 bucks. Then the front bumper 120 dollars. And pull the frame back into place $800+. Replace what ever is wrong with the head light, 50 bucks max probably. Paint, don't know how much that's gonna be. And ever since the accident there's been this electrical problem draining away at my battery when the car is off. And in the end I get a Salvage Title for the car. But yeah, I don't expect getting 4500. He just asked me to find an average so I found him one for him.

Here's two photos of the side of the car that didn't get hit. Taken a few days ago.

Spirit Rx-7

iTrader: (15)

i've had an simular accident 2 weeks ago, a lil worst then that. its a front end collision. needed bumper, hood, fender, and pieces behind the bumper. overall parts were around 150. and insides being strighten costed around 500. but the catch was, the parts were a diffrent color, so the parts needed a repaint. so overall my accident costed around 1k.


I also have this weird electrical problem, where the battery is gettin drained after sittin for one day. i wonder what it is?

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

WOW only 1 k? That's good. Hm...I probably will settle for his new offer then. But mines doesn't even need one full day. More like only 1/3 of a day. It still reads 13-14 volts when I jump it and drive though. So now when I get done driving...I just disconnect the battery cables..lol...and reconnect them when I start my car...what a ghetto way to solve a problem

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

To come and think about it. My battery would die on me before cause the alternator ground cable was lose. I need to check if it is again...

celbii

iTrader: (2)

What was his new offer?

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

He told me that he was going to be busy today. So he wouldn't have a chance to contact me until tomorrow. I'm looking for something in the mid $3k. I didn't give him a counter offer. Just the averages of what I found. I wonder how much he's going to say though.


Heres 2 more pictures of it taken today..the wrecked side..hood still cant close as you can see

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

You've got a short that's drawing power after you shut the car off, it's more than likely right in the area of the accident. Have you even looked for any cut or frayed wires?

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

No I haven't yet. But in that picture I took my car was on. I took out the Head Light Retractor fuse and Head Light fuse just to see if that was the reason draining it but don't know yet. But yeah I figured it was in that area.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

You can test for parasitic draw by using a multimeter to detect any current passing between the negative battery terminal and negative battery post when the car is off. Basically if the car doors are closed, lights off and key removed from the ignition there should be almost no current being drawn. When you have a short you will get parasitic draw which kills your battery.

Try pulling fuses, one at a time, while watching the multimeter reading, if the current draw disappears when you pull a particular fuse you have found the circuit with the short.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

I didn't do the multimeter testing, but I do believe that's it's either the Retractor or Head Light because my car had power today!!!! Between 11-12 volts after sitting for a day Awesome!! I don't need either now anyways since my head light cant even come out. :/

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

So he never did call me back on Weds. So I called him on Thurs. He wasn't in. Ok, so I call him today and leave a message. He just called me back. He said he looked at it and said "ok since your average is 4500 and mines was 2700...how about we go inbetween.." Then I ask how much he said 3500..hey Im happy with that. Not too bad..I probably couldve gotten more like 3800 but didnt feel the to since my car has been like this for a month now and I want it fixed asap..I just hope fixing it wont cost more than 1500...