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rotary works vmount inetcooler

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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:00 PM
  #76  
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ultimately.... if you car is lowered and you have to go over a speed bump. Dont buy the kit. If you love having a 4x4 then get the kit. Driving on the street was just fine but there was countless times I was cleaning paint off the bottom of the radiator and checking for holes. That was after I raised the car up too!
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 03:47 AM
  #77  
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That's very disappointing...I really don't like the extra tubing used for front mounts but it looks like FC's don't have too many options for V mounts.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #78  
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it take it to a local shop and they could probably build something to fit better then this.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 12:28 AM
  #79  
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I hope rotaryworks is watching this thread, has to of atleast seen this. Seeing all the negativity.... Simple to change his design on the bottom neck. If that got fixed, I could actually see myself buying the kit. But custom neck placement necessary, on my slammed car, for install? No thanks.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 05:48 AM
  #80  
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^ +1... I've also tried to contact them earlier this week on the kit, still waiting...No love for the FC?
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #81  
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they have posted here, and told me i installed it wrong. Yes the intercooler was not mounted how they planned but the radiator(my biggest complaint) was mounted correctly.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #82  
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Failure in the planning NOT the execution on that radiator.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #83  
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Did you notice any performance improvement? As in lower Intake Air temps? Power? I mean it would have to over the stock Top mount. Are you going to be doing any additional ducting? This kit doesn't work with the Factory oil cooler??
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Nick_d_TII
Did you notice any performance improvement? As in lower Intake Air temps? Power? I mean it would have to over the stock Top mount. Are you going to be doing any additional ducting? This kit doesn't work with the Factory oil cooler??
Well I was already running a front mount when I made the switch. So there isnt much of a difference besides the boost came on alot quicker. I no longer own the car so I wont be doing any ducting lol....the factory oil cooler works you just have to have custom oil cooler lines made....yes something else that is not included in the "kit"
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by RS_Customs
I would think an air bubble in the top keeping water from getting to the pump might be a problem with that design, but maybe not. I would get some air bleeders welded into it if you can to make sure the air is out.

Robert
not if you put it in a vacuum while filling it. gets rid of all bubbles and air pockets.....because its in a vacuum.
we do that all the time on the 6.3L diesels at work, they are notorious for having air pockets. same with VW's, the coolant tank sits lower than the lines.

Lloyd
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 12:09 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by magus2222
not if you put it in a vacuum while filling it. gets rid of all bubbles and air pockets.....because its in a vacuum.
we do that all the time on the 6.3L diesels at work, they are notorious for having air pockets. same with VW's, the coolant tank sits lower than the lines.

Lloyd
Hmm, may have to try that trick. Are you using anythings special to create the vacuum or just a shop vac? Or are you saying put just the radiator in a vac box?

Robert
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #87  
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they make a tool that goes on radiator fill hole. You use shop air to pull a vacuum then insert hose in coolant and the vacuum pulls the coolant in.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Travis V
I hope rotaryworks is watching this thread, has to of atleast seen this. Seeing all the negativity.... Simple to change his design on the bottom neck. If that got fixed, I could actually see myself buying the kit. But custom neck placement necessary, on my slammed car, for install? No thanks.
Hey guys...I am already talking to the guys at the shop about this. Of course it should be remedied and so we should have some more info soon...
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 05:12 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by RS_Customs
Hmm, may have to try that trick. Are you using anythings special to create the vacuum or just a shop vac? Or are you saying put just the radiator in a vac box?

Robert
snapon, and all the major tool companies have a tool to vacuum the coolant system. and yes, shop air. pull i think like 40-50lbs vacuum, then sucks up all the coolant, leaving it without air bubbles.
you dont have to, but if you want to make sure there are no air bubbles or anything, its good for peace of mind

Lloyd
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 12:44 AM
  #90  
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Rotary Works changed the radiator on Jeff Jones' Car in exactly the way people have suggested. Just move the inlet to the side.








It no longer seems as dangerous


What are people doing for the lower radiator hose?
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 08:08 AM
  #91  
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damn rotary-works should owe me some money then hahahaha

for the lower hose I used one of the flexible hoses from autozone with a clamp bolted to the frame to hold it in place. A better move would have been some sort of metal pipe with just small pieces to connect them.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #92  
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any updates on if there ganna change the design? I think rotaryworks does good work and i've been waiting a month to order this kit. but hey Twins80s nice work looks good.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #93  
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They should change the design. But if time is a factor I'm sure you could always call and ask them to change it to the side for your radiator and if not a welding job like that would only cost a few bucks at a welding shop.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #94  
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i didnt want to be such a bother but i guess it never herts to ask. but having a local shop relocate it would be my 1st option.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 11:04 AM
  #95  
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My install only took two hours on fit-up, I used a reamer to slot some holes knocked the brace into place and bolted everything up. I don't have ps/ac so i went a different direction on plumbing. A $25 hks bov welded adapter pipe and the kit looks pretty sick. My only complaint is the radiator neck. and lack of coolant hoses. plus the fact I couldn't install my thermostat with their water neck... Add $ 300 for the intake compression tube and oil cooler and another $150 for -10 AN Fitting and hose for the oil cooler lines. Overall for a competent mechanic a good kit putting that you are willing to put in the extra effort to install it the way you want it installed.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 05:40 PM
  #96  
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pics??
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 06:34 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by rx7 SE
pics??
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1011610/page4/
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:10 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Brandon Robinson
Very clean !
In your opinion is the performance versus a front mount setup worth the extra effort to install this v-mount?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by rx7 SE
Very clean !
In your opinion is the performance versus a front mount setup worth the extra effort to install this v-mount?
I don't have any experience with fmic's but i would imagine the benefits of not stacking your coils and shorter plumbing will make a significant difference on temps and lag. Also with a v-mount each coil has it's own exhaust path and they are not competing for flow or compounding coil exhaust temps. IMO a fmic will decrease your radiators performance.

Last edited by Brandon Robinson; Jan 16, 2013 at 07:04 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:52 AM
  #100  
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This makes me reconsider my FMIC...I'll be tracking my car and I know coolant temps are a major concern for engine life. I've always been a little curious about this setup, hmm.
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