Post Some Pics of your FC! :D <- Pics of your car go in this thread!!
An artist
iTrader: (2)
You told me that orange peel has NOTHING to do with primer EVER. From my point of view its the total opposite, the paint is rarely the problem (unless its urethane or the painter is spraying a ridiculous thick amount of paint) but the primer can be guilty as much as the clear coat. The quality on top will reflect the steps done before. As an example when I do a sharp edge with masking tape when painting stripes of different colors, if i put a perfect clear coat on top, you will be able to see a "bump" of clearcoat when the light reflect on it. So the clear coat "follow" the same texture that is in the steps below. Sure you can sand the clear coat and make it flat, but if the texture is too intense you got some risk of sanding too far and reach the paint.
We have some clients that ask for an orange peel texture in industrial paint, some of the solutions that we can offer can be done with the primer, when using automotive paint. So stating that orange peel has nothing to do ever with something else than the clear coat is wrong. It can be attributed to few more things that just clearcoat.
If you still disagree, look at the bottom of an FC door you'll see that texture underneath the clear coat can be annoyingly visible as the sad effect of gravel guard.
Sorry for polluting the thread
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/samshizzle/8746954461/" title="Untitled by SAMSHIZZLE, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8746954461_17779a3886_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="Untitled"></a>
Senior Member
It will be my last time arguing on the subject, but I would like you to try putting primer with a roller or spray thick primer on a flat sheet of metal without sanding the primer, and then apply the base coat and the clear coat with a perfect technique and see what happens.
You told me that orange peel has NOTHING to do with primer EVER. From my point of view its the total opposite, the paint is rarely the problem (unless its urethane or the painter is spraying a ridiculous thick amount of paint) but the primer can be guilty as much as the clear coat. The quality on top will reflect the steps done before. As an example when I do a sharp edge with masking tape when painting stripes of different colors, if i put a perfect clear coat on top, you will be able to see a "bump" of clearcoat when the light reflect on it. So the clear coat "follow" the same texture that is in the steps below. Sure you can sand the clear coat and make it flat, but if the texture is too intense you got some risk of sanding too far and reach the paint.
We have some clients that ask for an orange peel texture in industrial paint, some of the solutions that we can offer can be done with the primer, when using automotive paint. So stating that orange peel has nothing to do ever with something else than the clear coat is wrong. It can be attributed to few more things that just clearcoat.
If you still disagree, look at the bottom of an FC door you'll see that texture underneath the clear coat can be annoyingly visible as the sad effect of gravel guard.
Sorry for polluting the thread
You told me that orange peel has NOTHING to do with primer EVER. From my point of view its the total opposite, the paint is rarely the problem (unless its urethane or the painter is spraying a ridiculous thick amount of paint) but the primer can be guilty as much as the clear coat. The quality on top will reflect the steps done before. As an example when I do a sharp edge with masking tape when painting stripes of different colors, if i put a perfect clear coat on top, you will be able to see a "bump" of clearcoat when the light reflect on it. So the clear coat "follow" the same texture that is in the steps below. Sure you can sand the clear coat and make it flat, but if the texture is too intense you got some risk of sanding too far and reach the paint.
We have some clients that ask for an orange peel texture in industrial paint, some of the solutions that we can offer can be done with the primer, when using automotive paint. So stating that orange peel has nothing to do ever with something else than the clear coat is wrong. It can be attributed to few more things that just clearcoat.
If you still disagree, look at the bottom of an FC door you'll see that texture underneath the clear coat can be annoyingly visible as the sad effect of gravel guard.
Sorry for polluting the thread
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
Just wet sand it a bit and de grease and take it back in for another coat of clear if it's too thin to buff after wet sanding. The flash time is well expired,but at this point who cares if it doesn't look good anyway.
Attachment 498772
This is my toy 87. Looking for deeper wheels
This is my toy 87. Looking for deeper wheels
Last edited by gsl-se addict; 12-07-13 at 09:51 PM.
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is that a wankel.
iTrader: (14)
the no ftp wouldnt look bad if u got some mess and covered it that way. a buddy of mine did that back it the day and it looked good imo. none the less the car looks good.
FC guy
iTrader: (8)
how could you possibly know if the clear is too thin to buff unless you already broke through?
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
My FTP's were all rotted at the back so I removed them as well. I personally like them on, but I also like the idea that my HKS filter gets more air with the hole opened up. Mostly at night with the lights up.
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
You can tell by looking. When you have heavy orange peal the paint will usually be too thin after a sand anyway because when you apply pressure to the sand paper it is not evenly spread out. That aside if he wet sands and cuts through the clear to the base it will be game over and need a new clear. The smoother the under coat is the less and less orange peel you'll have. Looks like the painter did not reduce the paint properly, and used too much pressure.