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OMG! I'm getting my baby back... And I don't mean ribs..

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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #26  
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From: Spring Hill TN 37174
GOing to compression test it tomorrow before I sink anymore into it.. Here is to hoping the engine is good... AS it sits here is what it is..

1991 Rx7 Turbo Swapped Coupe
103k miles
5 speed S5 turbo transmission
Black Mint interior
S5 T2 wheels
Dual Sheave Alt pulley
3" full stainless exhaust (DP/TP)
tokico Blues with eibach race springs
Imported s5 t2 engine (unknown compression condition)
Upgraded clutch
Mazdatrix Turbo trans to N/A rear drive shaft
S5 Turbo Wheels
N370 electronic package
walbro 255 fuel pump
BLitz Intake system

If the motor is no good I have to pass this car on to someone else to have and to hold.. I can't take on a project like that this year..
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #27  
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From: GMR
woot! youll appreciate her more haha. same thing happened to me sold my first fc saw it back for sale bought it back but sold it again now kind of regret it now ehh ...

love that exhaust tho!
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #28  
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Lucky..My first fc I sold was bought by a douche kid I went to highschool with and there it lived its life as a giant fox racing advertisement...
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 07:30 AM
  #29  
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Good luck man. Selling or buying a house is a horrible process. Even when your neighbor sells a house, it's a horrible process. I had realtor call the county on me twice for unregistered/uinspected vehicles. I found out I had 3 months, so I blue tarped 2 of them and parked a running one in the yard! Im sure they were happy, it looked better before.


You should buy your OEM parts from Malloy Mazda in VA. They'll beat Mazdatrix prices and ship them to your house the same. Call 703-490-8263 and ask for Ray Crowe or Casey Acuff.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:32 PM
  #30  
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Making progress. My Cafe Racer project is getting a good chunk of my time too... But I installed the fuel tank, test fittted the exhaust, hooked up the radiator and installed new radiator hoses.

Attached Thumbnails OMG! I'm getting my baby back... And I don't mean ribs..-toomany.jpg  
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #31  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Hypertek
man that stock body is growing on me, just like this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq2-AXEuu1c
i like how the Rx7 was the best performing one, so they chose the Z....
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #32  
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HOPing to get some work done tomorrow.. GOing to heat the garage up to about 70 degrees and knock some stuff out.

I am a little overwhelmed, I have to tear the intake off to get to the wiring harness as none of the connectors are in the right place and none of the grounds are connected. I am missing so many little bits and peices that every time I get a few steps closer to even doing a simple compression test I get pushed back 2 steps.. Trying to put a half finished project together (that you didnt build) is way harder then doing it from the beginning..
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #33  
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Placing this here for future reference.

Engine / Fuel / Coolant System / Lubrication System

Engine / Tranny Mounts:
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 145mm (5 5/8 in) (with head of bolt)135 mm (5 1/4 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). Nut on opposite end. FINE THREAD
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 100 mm (3 15/16 in) (with head of bolt) 90 mm (3 1/2 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD
(2) 14 mm head - Length = 45 mm (1 3/4 in) (with head of bolt) 35 mm (1 3/8 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). FINE THREAD
(1) 14 mm head - Length = 40 mm (1 1/2 in) (with head of bolt) 30 mm (1 3/16 in) (from bottom of head of bolt to end of bolt). COURSE THREAD (goes under the starter)

Bottom Motor Mount: 12mm x 1.25 pitch

Pulsation Dampener Banjo Bolt: M12 x 1.25

OMP/MOP: N/A, 10mm x 1.0 bolts
TII, 10mm x 1.25

Oil Pan: M6 x 1.00

Oil Injectors: N/A, M10 x 1.0
TII, M10 x 1.25

Oil Injector Lines: NA: 10mm x 1.25
TII (some) : 10mm x 1.00

Oil Cooler: Front Cover is M16 x 1.5 — Rear of engine and both oil cooler are M18 x 1.5

Oil Feed Line Hole: front cover, 16mm x 1.5 thread pitch,
other three, 18mm x 1.5

Oil pressure sensor: 1/8” BSPT – 28 BSP

Primary Fuel Rail Hold-Down (one of two choices): 10mm, M8 x 1.25 12mm, M10 x 1.25

Radiator Bleed and Drain Plugs: 12 x 1.25 x ~10 long

Housing Tension Bolt: M10 x 1.0

Coolant Bleed Screw: M12 x 1.25

S4 T2 UIM Center Bolt: M8 x 1.25 x 85mm long (OEM part number 9980-00-8085 or 9979-60-885)

S5 T2 UIM Center Bolt: M8 x 1.25 x 120mm long (OEM part number 9980-00-8120)


Turbo

S4 Turbo-to-Downpipe: 10mm x 1.5

Turbine Housing to Downpipe (S5): M10 x 1.5 ::: The stud is 53mm long with a 10mm threaded end for the housing side and an 18mm threaded end of the downpipe side.

Turbo Water Line Banjo Bolt: M16 x 1.5

Turbo Oil Line from the top of the front iron on the right via banjo bolt, then runs through that metal line to the turbo oil inlet: M12 x 1.5



Steering/Suspension

Steering Column Knuckles: M8 x 1.25

P/S Rack Lines (two): M12 x 1.25

P/S Rack Lines (third, some models): M16 x 1.50

P/S Banjo Bolt: 10mm fine thread (go into the end of the steering link, from the pump)

Front Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.50 (same as lug nuts)

Rear Differential Mount Studs: M12 x 1.25

Swaybar Endlinks: M10 x 1.25

Tie Rod Ends: M12 x 1.25

Front A Arm Mounting Bolts: M10 x 0.25 x 14mm head x 18cm length



Transmission/Clutch

S4 Shifter: M12 x 1.5

S5 Shifter: M10 x 1.25

Clutch Slaves: M8 x 1.0 or M7 x 1.0

Flywheel (wrench needed): 2 1/8" or 54mm

Transmission mount, large bolt on bottom of crossmember: M12 x 1.25

Lower Starter Bolt: M10 x 1.50 x 30mm long

Pressure Plate to Flywheel: M8 x 1.00 x 24mm long



Wheels/Brakes

Wheel Studs: M12 x 1.50

The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:

14 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)

15 x 6 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)

15 x 6.5 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (convertible)

16 x7 w/ 114.3 x 5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)

Brake Rotor Brass Screws: 8mm x 1.25

Brake Caliper Bleeders: M8 x 1.0 and M7 x 1.0 respectively



Exhaust

O2 Sensor: M18 x 1.50

Exhaust Manifold Flange Where the pre-cats attach: M12 x 1.25

Racing Beat Presilencer: M12 x 1.75

N/A Exhaust Manifold: M10 x 1.25

TII Exhaust Manifold Nut: 10mm x 1.5



Other

Thermostat Housing: M6 x 1.0 , short bolts

Thermostat: M12 x 1.25

Skid Plate: 10mm flanges heads ::: probably a 6mm x 1.0

Large bolt going through UIM into LIM : M8, course thread. Length is about 3-4 inches (thats a quote from Aaron )

S4 Air Intake Sensor: M10 x 1.0

Cold Start Assist Sender: 16mm x 1.5

Spoiler: M8 x 1.25

Storage Bin Mounts: M6 x 1.0

Seats: M10 x 1.25 x 1 inch – Fine thread

CAS lockdown nut: 6mm x 1.0

AFM Mounting Bolts that hold the stock airbox bracket on: M6 x 1.0

According to cluosborne, SAE 7/16/20 (fine thread) bolts can be substituted for the hard to find M11 size used for the seal bolt anchors.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RRTEC
I really appreciate a clean stock body with a lip and a drop..
For me, that's the only way to go. I've never been the flashy type.

Pretty extensive list on the hardware there. Hopefully this project works out for you. I'd love to have my old N/A back, but seeing as how thieves set it on fire and I decided it was best to scrap it (there was nothing but a shell after all), that will never be happening.
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #35  
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From: Spring Hill TN 37174
Got some work done today, think I may start a build thread with detailed pictures.. etc.

Installed the Mazdatrix Turbo Trans to N/A rear driveshaft
Installed and Wired up the Starter
Installed Radiator/hoses/clamps/shroud
Installed Downpipe
Installed O2 sensor
Installed oil cooler lines
Removed Power Steering pump
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