my new DIY paint and restored s4 taillights
01-05-08, 06:39 PM
#1
my new DIY paint and restored s4 taillights
Well I got bored a couple weeks back and decided id restore my questionable looking s4 tail lights. They had the typical scratches on the sides and chips here and there. I picked up a can of Krylon ultra flat black and Duplicolor wheel clear that I had laying around... Did some sanding, masking painting. With the clear I put 1 tack coat, 1 thin coat, and 2 full coats. I let it dry for about 15 minutes between each coat. I had preheated the oven to 150 degrees, then I shut the oven off and sat the tail lights inside for about an hour or so. "Baked" the paint on pretty decent. I then waited 2 weeks for the paint to fully cure. Just today I took some 2000 grit wet paper I had and went to town. I finished it off with a good Mothers cleaner wax rub down and then took a cloth and took out all the wax leftover in the crevices around the lenses. I also wet sanded and polished the lenses too.
I know s4 lights may not be desired as much as s5 lights are, but when they in perfect shape like these I think they still look great...
I also figured I'd share a couple shots of my DIY paint. I used all Duplicolor paint shop products for the paint standard Duplicolor primer and reducer. I guess its ok for the money... The metallic on the silver is a tad blotchy and it could use another layer of clear for more depth. Overall I guess it turned out pretty well.
I repainted the engine bay and door jambs using Rustoleum brush on aluminum and then threw a thin coat of Rustoleum rattle can silver metallic to make it match the body color a bit better. I degreased the engine a little too.
Might as well throw in some interior shots. I swapped in a gray 87 Sport interior and picked up a new CD player a few months back. The car was Harbor? Blue stock so it had the blue interior. The shift *** is from a 626 or an MX6 I think... I grabbed it from a Mazda at the junk yard. Had to bore out the inside quite a bit to get it to thread on. Its plastic.
I know s4 lights may not be desired as much as s5 lights are, but when they in perfect shape like these I think they still look great...
I also figured I'd share a couple shots of my DIY paint. I used all Duplicolor paint shop products for the paint standard Duplicolor primer and reducer. I guess its ok for the money... The metallic on the silver is a tad blotchy and it could use another layer of clear for more depth. Overall I guess it turned out pretty well.
I repainted the engine bay and door jambs using Rustoleum brush on aluminum and then threw a thin coat of Rustoleum rattle can silver metallic to make it match the body color a bit better. I degreased the engine a little too.
Might as well throw in some interior shots. I swapped in a gray 87 Sport interior and picked up a new CD player a few months back. The car was Harbor? Blue stock so it had the blue interior. The shift *** is from a 626 or an MX6 I think... I grabbed it from a Mazda at the junk yard. Had to bore out the inside quite a bit to get it to thread on. Its plastic.
Last edited by NCross; 01-05-08 at 06:47 PM.
01-05-08, 09:35 PM
#5
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That is one nice car 
I am going to be doing the same DIY paint job on my rx7 after I finish rebuilding the engine.
It's going to be white though, it can stay dirty longer than any other color and still look good haha.
Did you use a good spray gun for the clear coat on the body?
Or is that the duplicolor clear coat?
I am going to be doing the same DIY paint job on my rx7 after I finish rebuilding the engine.
It's going to be white though, it can stay dirty longer than any other color and still look good haha.
Did you use a good spray gun for the clear coat on the body?
Or is that the duplicolor clear coat?
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01-06-08, 12:27 AM
#8
The only upside to the Duplicolor Paint Shop kit is that you can just walk into any auto parts store and buy it for $20 a can (premixed). I would give it a 7 out of 10 in comparison to factory paint (being a 10). It looks like complete *** until you wet sand and polish it. The silver came out a little streaky in a few spots (you can see the spray pattern). The clear went on good, but could use another coat.
It could have been the fact that I hadn't used my gun in over a year so it seemed a bit clogged at first. Took quite a bit of cleaning, so maybe it was to blame for the streaks. I don't think it would have streaked if the paint was a solid color (no metallic). The metallic flake was really gooey and difficult to mix into the paint... That's why I blame the paint overall.
I used the single stage Duplicolor paint (gallon cans) before with better results. My SilEighty was black and the RX7 was metallic blue before the repaint, but those damn rock chips and people hitting it in parking lots forced me to do a cheap repaint.
Theres a couple spots where I sanded through the clear and the primer is visible, and one spot where I need to repair a rust hole on the bottom of the fender. Other than that I'm pretty satisfied. Not bad for a "$100 I painted it in my parents back yard" paint job.
It could have been the fact that I hadn't used my gun in over a year so it seemed a bit clogged at first. Took quite a bit of cleaning, so maybe it was to blame for the streaks. I don't think it would have streaked if the paint was a solid color (no metallic). The metallic flake was really gooey and difficult to mix into the paint... That's why I blame the paint overall.
I used the single stage Duplicolor paint (gallon cans) before with better results. My SilEighty was black and the RX7 was metallic blue before the repaint, but those damn rock chips and people hitting it in parking lots forced me to do a cheap repaint.
Theres a couple spots where I sanded through the clear and the primer is visible, and one spot where I need to repair a rust hole on the bottom of the fender. Other than that I'm pretty satisfied. Not bad for a "$100 I painted it in my parents back yard" paint job.
01-06-08, 01:12 AM
#9
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The only upside to the Duplicolor Paint Shop kit is that you can just walk into any auto parts store and buy it for $20 a can (premixed). I would give it a 7 out of 10 in comparison to factory paint (being a 10). It looks like complete *** until you wet sand and polish it. The silver came out a little streaky in a few spots (you can see the spray pattern). The clear went on good, but could use another coat.
It could have been the fact that I hadn't used my gun in over a year so it seemed a bit clogged at first. Took quite a bit of cleaning, so maybe it was to blame for the streaks. I don't think it would have streaked if the paint was a solid color (no metallic). The metallic flake was really gooey and difficult to mix into the paint... That's why I blame the paint overall.
I used the single stage Duplicolor paint (gallon cans) before with better results. My SilEighty was black and the RX7 was metallic blue before the repaint, but those damn rock chips and people hitting it in parking lots forced me to do a cheap repaint.
Theres a couple spots where I sanded through the clear and the primer is visible, and one spot where I need to repair a rust hole on the bottom of the fender. Other than that I'm pretty satisfied. Not bad for a "$100 I painted it in my parents back yard" paint job.
It could have been the fact that I hadn't used my gun in over a year so it seemed a bit clogged at first. Took quite a bit of cleaning, so maybe it was to blame for the streaks. I don't think it would have streaked if the paint was a solid color (no metallic). The metallic flake was really gooey and difficult to mix into the paint... That's why I blame the paint overall.
I used the single stage Duplicolor paint (gallon cans) before with better results. My SilEighty was black and the RX7 was metallic blue before the repaint, but those damn rock chips and people hitting it in parking lots forced me to do a cheap repaint.
Theres a couple spots where I sanded through the clear and the primer is visible, and one spot where I need to repair a rust hole on the bottom of the fender. Other than that I'm pretty satisfied. Not bad for a "$100 I painted it in my parents back yard" paint job.
Thanks for the info about it.
Also, what kind of exhaust is that?
Looks like a custom dynomax or magnaflow muffler setup?
01-06-08, 12:23 PM
#10
MazdaSpeed cans with custom 2.5" Y pipe and OEM replacement main cat. It's not perfect, but it gets the job done 
Yeah, the paint is $20 a can. It comes in quart sized cans. You'll need 2 cans of color and probably 4 cans of clear if you want 2 coats. My recommendation is to not worry about the hood at first and concentrate on the body first. Then after the body is dried make sure to have the hood removed and paint it seperately.
This stuff requires a lot of sanding and polishing, but can look pretty good eventually.
1. 1000 gritt wet paper
2. 2000 gritt paper
3. rubbing compound by hand
4. cleaner wax via orbital buffer
5. cleaner wax via light hand rubbing (to remove fin swirls from buffer).
You'll need to spray enough top coat to where you can sand the paint down to a completely flat surface (no orange peel whatsoever). This will get the best reflections. Be careful not to over-sand the body line the jets out above the wheel wells and around the door handle. It's also easy to over-sand the lower body such as the bottom part of the front bumper and the "under trim" part of the doors. It's harder to see so you may sand too long.
Yeah, the paint is $20 a can. It comes in quart sized cans. You'll need 2 cans of color and probably 4 cans of clear if you want 2 coats. My recommendation is to not worry about the hood at first and concentrate on the body first. Then after the body is dried make sure to have the hood removed and paint it seperately.
This stuff requires a lot of sanding and polishing, but can look pretty good eventually.
1. 1000 gritt wet paper
2. 2000 gritt paper
3. rubbing compound by hand
4. cleaner wax via orbital buffer
5. cleaner wax via light hand rubbing (to remove fin swirls from buffer).
You'll need to spray enough top coat to where you can sand the paint down to a completely flat surface (no orange peel whatsoever). This will get the best reflections. Be careful not to over-sand the body line the jets out above the wheel wells and around the door handle. It's also easy to over-sand the lower body such as the bottom part of the front bumper and the "under trim" part of the doors. It's harder to see so you may sand too long.
01-06-08, 08:05 PM
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Your not suppose to apply the Duplicolor wheel clear over top of painted surfaces, as I found out the hard way.
I applied the Duplicolor clear over top of my painted wheels (before I read that you aren't suppose to apply it to painted surfaces) and they looked good for a few months, but now if you look at the wheels closely you can see a bunch of spider web like cracks in the clear.
Not that big of a deal thou.
Your lights look good, hopefully the same doesn't happen to you.
I applied the Duplicolor clear over top of my painted wheels (before I read that you aren't suppose to apply it to painted surfaces) and they looked good for a few months, but now if you look at the wheels closely you can see a bunch of spider web like cracks in the clear.
Not that big of a deal thou.
Your lights look good, hopefully the same doesn't happen to you.
01-07-08, 11:47 AM
#15
Rain makes good wet sanding weather
red7rising -
95 Altima cup holder. Fits perfectly in the DIN slot. Needed a radio kit trim piece to fill in the gap underneath.
'84-12A-GSL -
Sounds like you didn't prep very well. If the painted surface had cured paint you should have wet sanded it with 1000 gritt paper to scuff it up to a smooth surface. Did you apply a tack coat first? Not trying to sound like a dick to you personally, but what the hell would you use clear paint for if you couldn't apply it over painted surfaces, lol. I've used it before and it turned out fine. Just have to be meticulous about prep work. It helps to wet sand it and put wax on it too after its cured. Keeps the paint "nurished" with oils to protect against oxidation etc.
red7rising -
95 Altima cup holder. Fits perfectly in the DIN slot. Needed a radio kit trim piece to fill in the gap underneath.
'84-12A-GSL -
Sounds like you didn't prep very well. If the painted surface had cured paint you should have wet sanded it with 1000 gritt paper to scuff it up to a smooth surface. Did you apply a tack coat first? Not trying to sound like a dick to you personally, but what the hell would you use clear paint for if you couldn't apply it over painted surfaces, lol. I've used it before and it turned out fine. Just have to be meticulous about prep work. It helps to wet sand it and put wax on it too after its cured. Keeps the paint "nurished" with oils to protect against oxidation etc.
01-07-08, 02:31 PM
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Umm...read right on the Duplicolor can.
It says "Don't apply a clear lacquer over wheel paint."
Im not making up BS off the top of my head, it says it right on the instructions.
And I preped the surface with a alcohol.
Obviously most clear coats are made for painted surfaces, but this Duplicolor Wheel Coat isn't. Maybe yours will turn out fine, mine look great for months, but than after a while upon closer inspection I could see cracks.
Im gonna go see if I can find the can, and take a pic and post it.
It says "Don't apply a clear lacquer over wheel paint."
Im not making up BS off the top of my head, it says it right on the instructions.
And I preped the surface with a alcohol.
Obviously most clear coats are made for painted surfaces, but this Duplicolor Wheel Coat isn't. Maybe yours will turn out fine, mine look great for months, but than after a while upon closer inspection I could see cracks.
Im gonna go see if I can find the can, and take a pic and post it.
Last edited by '84-12A-GSL; 01-07-08 at 02:39 PM.
01-07-08, 11:12 PM
#18
Well my can reads, and I quote...
"Dupli-Color High Performance Clear Wheel Coating is designed for use over Dupli-color high Performance Wheel Coatings to provide a durable long-lasting finish. Our track tested formulation also resists chemicals, brake dust, heat, chipping, weather, and corrosion. :: Ideal for :: aluminum wheels, steel wheels, and hubcaps.
DIRECTIONS : Prep the surface, use desired Dupli-Color Wheel Coating color. Apply Dupli-Color High Performance Clear Wheel Coating within 1 hour after application of color coat.
There's much more on the can, but I don't feel like typing it. The can is too curved to take a decent picture of it.
Again, I'm not trying to be a dick head at all. I'm just stating that I know what I'm talking about when it comes to spray paint
"Dupli-Color High Performance Clear Wheel Coating is designed for use over Dupli-color high Performance Wheel Coatings to provide a durable long-lasting finish. Our track tested formulation also resists chemicals, brake dust, heat, chipping, weather, and corrosion. :: Ideal for :: aluminum wheels, steel wheels, and hubcaps.
DIRECTIONS : Prep the surface, use desired Dupli-Color Wheel Coating color. Apply Dupli-Color High Performance Clear Wheel Coating within 1 hour after application of color coat.
There's much more on the can, but I don't feel like typing it. The can is too curved to take a decent picture of it.
Again, I'm not trying to be a dick head at all. I'm just stating that I know what I'm talking about when it comes to spray paint
01-08-08, 01:00 AM
#20
NC explain two things for me.
1. I've been contemplating painting my car with the silver from the pain shop system is it close to arctic silver? and are the metallic flakes already mixed in or did you by a jar of flake from a paint shop and mix them in?
2. i used to spray paint (with DeVilBiss guns ^_^), but not on cars . . . tack coat is just a thin coat you let get sticky then spray the additional coats a little heavier?
1. I've been contemplating painting my car with the silver from the pain shop system is it close to arctic silver? and are the metallic flakes already mixed in or did you by a jar of flake from a paint shop and mix them in?
2. i used to spray paint (with DeVilBiss guns ^_^), but not on cars . . . tack coat is just a thin coat you let get sticky then spray the additional coats a little heavier?
01-08-08, 11:48 AM
#21
^^
I've never been up close to an Arctic Silver car to be honest... so.... I couldn't give you an answer on that.
The metallic flake came in it yes... but it wasn't mixed worth a crap. Kinda looked like a big silver booger on the bottom of the can and took a LOT of stirring and shaking to mix it. Honestly if I could do it over again I would have just ordered some single stage silver from the auto parts store. $50-70 a gallon depending on the brand and its good quality. Throw on 2 coats of it and wet sand/polish and it looks stock. You have to mix it with reducer.
A tack coat is the bread and butter of a well sticking paint coat. Just a quick mist over the surface. Let it sit for a few minutes then spray a medium coat. That would be a full coat. Just repeat however many coats you want. The only paint you don't need tack coats with is flat paints and primers.
I've never been up close to an Arctic Silver car to be honest... so.... I couldn't give you an answer on that.
The metallic flake came in it yes... but it wasn't mixed worth a crap. Kinda looked like a big silver booger on the bottom of the can and took a LOT of stirring and shaking to mix it. Honestly if I could do it over again I would have just ordered some single stage silver from the auto parts store. $50-70 a gallon depending on the brand and its good quality. Throw on 2 coats of it and wet sand/polish and it looks stock. You have to mix it with reducer.
A tack coat is the bread and butter of a well sticking paint coat. Just a quick mist over the surface. Let it sit for a few minutes then spray a medium coat. That would be a full coat. Just repeat however many coats you want. The only paint you don't need tack coats with is flat paints and primers.
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