OMP disconnect on s4
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OMP disconnect on s4
Is it ok to just disconnect the rod that connects the throttle to the omp? I’m assuming it’s fine but I’m not sure if it will close the omp all the way.
Has anyone else done this? I’ve look at the other forum posts and the only one about this same topic everyone just talked about how removing the omp is pointless if it still works, not if it’s possible to disconnect it. I wanna know if mine if working properly and yes I am premixing, I just don’t want used 4-stroke oil in my engine.
Has anyone else done this? I’ve look at the other forum posts and the only one about this same topic everyone just talked about how removing the omp is pointless if it still works, not if it’s possible to disconnect it. I wanna know if mine if working properly and yes I am premixing, I just don’t want used 4-stroke oil in my engine.
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what do you mean block off? I geuss what I was asking is could I just remove only the connecting rod and leave everything else in?
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You can do that. The rod makes it dispense more oil as the throttle is opened. If the rod is detached it will still pump oil as if the engine was at idle all the time.
People usually remove it and bolt in a block off plate like this in its place.
People usually remove it and bolt in a block off plate like this in its place.
Last edited by Idrinkengineoil; 09-02-22 at 10:21 PM.
#6
Yes, you can leave the oil injectors in place but you will need to ensure the oil supply line from the OMP does not suck air (as in it cannot be a cracked line or open to air when you are done).
And they cannot not push what I'll call "engine block air", to the upper intake through the spider. They act as a check valve to ensure air in the line only moves from the upper intake to the injector during acceleration. .. It stops air from being pushed from the engine block back to the upper intake during deceleration.
You could place a bolt in the hole where the oil injector was, but you would need the right thread, and a bolt that would hold a crush washer down. . . .Assuming you did this, you would also need to plug the large vac line coming off the intake (front nipple) that goes to the 4 to 1 spider. . . .In the picture below, it would be the vacuum line with the white dot in the lower right corner of the pic.. .. . You can see how the large line goes to a 4 to 1 plastic splitter.
And they cannot not push what I'll call "engine block air", to the upper intake through the spider. They act as a check valve to ensure air in the line only moves from the upper intake to the injector during acceleration. .. It stops air from being pushed from the engine block back to the upper intake during deceleration.
You could place a bolt in the hole where the oil injector was, but you would need the right thread, and a bolt that would hold a crush washer down. . . .Assuming you did this, you would also need to plug the large vac line coming off the intake (front nipple) that goes to the 4 to 1 spider. . . .In the picture below, it would be the vacuum line with the white dot in the lower right corner of the pic.. .. . You can see how the large line goes to a 4 to 1 plastic splitter.
The following 2 users liked this post by mazdaverx713b:
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