Hey guys I'm just looking for a bit of input...I've got a S5 TI with leaky coolant seals,the tear down and rebuild will be my winter project. Just curious as to what I should be looking at replacing? Apex, Side, Corner seal?Are there ant parts that could be reused? I'm planning on keeping with 2mm apex. The car runs great but has over heated a couple times due to the coolant issues. I'm running an rtek1.7 with a stock turbo but would like to run a BNR 3ish. Still a daily driver but I drive it hard.Thanks for any advice.

Chad

 

you don't order anything until you do actually tear it down..
You don't know what it needs until then..and why spend money on stuff you do not need..Right?

 

Thanks Dave, I was looking for a more technical answer as far as common practice and specs on slightly wore parts compared to worn out parts...more or less just putting feelers out.

 

I ran a stage 3 with a 2.1..not sure about using just the 1.7 though.
I'll leave that up there and see what others think.

 

Unfortunately they don't make a 2.1 for the s5, but I will definitely upgrade depending on my needs at that time

 

Chad, you forgot to give us important info..... how old is the engine, original? How many miles are on the block?

Depending on your answer, it may end up needing a lot replaced

 

If you are on a budget, side and corner seals aren't major wear points. If they meet the specs in the FSM or Haynes manual, they can be re-used. Make sure to put them back in the same rotor and position from which you removed. Same with the oil ring hard carriers.

Apex seals are the major wear point. Unless they are low mile (<20,000) they should be replaced.

With an engine that has been overheated multiple times due to lack of coolant, and drinking water, you will need to measure the flatness of the irons, housings, and thickness of the housings at the spark plug area. You may find them warped.

But I echo what is said above: don't start buying parts until it is torn down.

 

the shop manual has all the measurements in it, Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

so if you're on a budget the cheapest way is to tear the thing down, like they say; so that you can put the seals back in the correct groove, and just measure everything.

what you replace really depends on if the engine has been rebuilt before, and how many miles are on it.

this method does take a long time, if you need to move faster, buy all the seals and springs new.

 

Hey guys thanks for the info, I didn't plan on buying any parts until I'm tire down but was more or less just gathering information, the Block has been rebuilt about 50 k ago at a Mazda dealer. Are Atkins parts a safe bet or would I be better off with oem parts? Thanks again Chad

 

Atkins parts are fine.