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anybody have the FC Battery cable replacement write-up!
i couldnt find the write-up anymore on rotary Resurrection site so im asking if you guys have a link provided. I cant tell what size the cables are sause theyre wrapped up on the factory Tape.
I heard to get to the Ground cable Bolt (negative) you have to remove the Driver side Fender. with a 10MM socket not sure where i go with RED +
actually whats all the other connections for? i see the radiator sensor (Black) and the negative -- boot i dont know what the other white switchs are for and that other bkack one close to the driver fender.
actually whats all the other connections for? i see the radiator sensor (Black) and the negative -- boot i dont know what the other white switchs are for and that other bkack one close to the driver fender.
Starting at the lower right hand corner and going CW:
Black connector for starter solenoid.
White connector for oil pressure sending unit.
White connector for coolant temperature sending unit.
White connector with red wire for low oil level switch.
The two white connectors in the center are for the backup light switch.
The two white connectors at the upper right are for the neutral switch.
The black multi pin connector at the left center are, I think, for the dash harness.
At the moment, I don't recall what the single black wire with round connector (next to multi pin connector) is for. It might be a tach wire coming off the trailing ignitor.
Starting at the lower right hand corner and going CW:
Black connector for starter solenoid.
White connector for oil pressure sending unit.
White connector for coolant temperature sending unit.
White connector with red wire for low oil level switch.
The two white connectors in the center are for the backup light switch.
The two white connectors at the upper right are for the neutral switch.
The black multi pin connector at the left center are, I think, for the dash harness.
At the moment, I don't recall what the single black wire with round connector (next to multi pin connector) is for. It might be a tach wire coming off the trailing ignitor.
White connector with the yellow wire and red is the oil pressure
From a serviceability perspective, it seems silly to have the cables bundled into the Engine Harness like this when the only connection between the two is electrical tape. Kinda like how the Wipers/Cruise/Sub-Zero start Assist wiring are packaged in with the Emission Harness. Anyway, unwrapping the harness tape is not a very fun job but pretty straightforward. Start at the battery and work your way down. Every few inches, re-tape the harness with the cables off to the side. Keep working your way down and you'll be able to pull them out from the top.
Replacement cable lengths:
Positive: 48"
Negative: Two 24" (Battery to Body and Body to Starter)
During reassembly, I suggest using cables with eyelet lug terminals and Marine Battery Terminals (they have wing nuts) so it can easily be taken apart with as little effort as possible. Most parts stores or Walmart have 4awg cables in slightly longer lengths (25" and 51" I believe) on the shelf at any given time. These work fine and give you a little extra wiggle room to route them however you like without fear of coming up short. One thing I'd suggest to make life easier is for the Body Ground point is to thread the M6 bolt (use stainless steel, 20mm long should be fine) in from the wheel side. This gives you a stud to hook the negative cables onto, instead of trying to hold two cables plus a M6 bolt together and thread it in straight in such a cramped area. Added bonus is that you can secure the positive cable onto this stud with an Adel Clamp to keep things fairly tidy
From a serviceability perspective, it seems silly to have the cables bundled into the Engine Harness like this when the only connection between the two is electrical tape. Kinda like how the Wipers/Cruise/Sub-Zero start Assist wiring are packaged in with the Emission Harness. Anyway, unwrapping the harness tape is not a very fun job but pretty straightforward. Start at the battery and work your way down. Every few inches, re-tape the harness with the cables off to the side. Keep working your way down and you'll be able to pull them out from the top.
Replacement cable lengths:
Positive: 48"
Negative: Two 24" (Battery to Body and Body to Starter)
During reassembly, I suggest using cables with eyelet lug terminals and Marine Battery Terminals (they have wing nuts) so it can easily be taken apart with as little effort as possible. Most parts stores or Walmart have 4awg cables in slightly longer lengths (25" and 51" I believe) on the shelf at any given time. These work fine and give you a little extra wiggle room to route them however you like without fear of coming up short. One thing I'd suggest to make life easier is for the Body Ground point is to thread the M6 bolt (use stainless steel, 20mm long should be fine) in from the wheel side. This gives you a stud to hook the negative cables onto, instead of trying to hold two cables plus a M6 bolt together and thread it in straight in such a cramped area. Added bonus is that you can secure the positive cable onto this stud with an Adel Clamp to keep things fairly tidy
you still cant replace JUST the negative cable ONLY on series 5?
you can, but that harness should come out, then you can unwrap it, replace the cable, and put it back.
its not that hard, but its not going to be a lot of fun either
anybody have the FC Battery cable replacement write-up!
