hhmm.. maybe ill rebuild my motor with a Bridge port in it.....hehe.. just ideas.

 

Felix, im anti-brideport. ill always be afraid that my side seal is going to fall off into the port. call me paranoid. i favor the street port.

Originally posted by...ME

ive got a 98 GSX limited, hopefully picking up a 2001 XPL for this summer "Watercraft of the Century" and easily made into a FAST craft.

chris

 

What's wrong with leaving the OMP in there, it's not gonna to hurt anything would it? I have the E-omp which could trigger my ECU to run rich if I have it disconnected. Plus I just got done installing all 4 injector lines.

 

my guess from the posts ive read is that premix is about 10 -20% insurance and 80 -90% because it reduces carbon build up and the probs that come with it......so if you pre mix and still keep the omp (pumping the carbon buildup problem still) arent you defeating the purpose of premixing (unless you premix to have 100% insurance)? just my thoughts. does anyone agree?


also i have a quick little story about my ride to work. for those who dont know ive had this 89 rx-7 vert with a 1 year old pettit racing street port engine (not that i think im cool...its just what came with it) it has no mods an auto tranny and its been with me for around a month. so i am still building my confidence in it, and sizing up its power as well (shes 12 years old so i am skeptical)any ways i found myself in a right hand turn merge lane looking in the mirror to see some ******* comming up on me. it was a split second decision to either stop and let him go by before i merge or open up the 6 port to finally see if my heavy car has some *****. goin about 20 in the S gear for the auto i opt for the second of the 2 choices. my right foot gets real heavy and in the 30 yards i have left my merge lane ends. im well past all cars i can see in the mirror ( the top was up, i was late for work) so i check the huge blind spot and just as i start to get over i hear what sounds to me like a horn from some foreign car. ive had a few rx-7 but never redlined b-4..bingo it scared the **** out of me i thought i was about to wreck my baby but it ran so smooth i never even thought about letting off the gas. personally i think mazda made it to sound like an outside car horn to freak people out..anyways maybe its a "you had to be there" story.

bauer

 

What Ted is implying when he said disabling the OMP, he's referring to the GTR models (86-88). The GTX models are controlled via ECU and not possible to totally disable the OMP. People who neglect oil changes have a greater chance of the oil injectors getting clogged. It doesn't give any sign as a dirty fuel injector.
It'll just wear out the rotor housing and eventually seize.

 

If any of you have rebuilt your own motor and seen what oil does to the rotors, you'll switch to pre-mix and disable the OMP. I've seen how much carbon builds up in a 30,000 mile motor. I yanked out the OMP without hesitation. I've been running pre-mix for about 20,000 miles now. It runs smoother, revs quicker and I think when using pre-mix, the octane doesn't drop as much as using regular oil. No scientifc data but I could not boost to 15 psi without hearing detonation on a stock IC and when using OMP. Now, it doesn't detonate at 15 psi. Not that everyone should be boosting to 15 psi on a stock turbo. It was just for testing.

 

ok- are we saying that we can use 2-cycle oil like the type you use in your chain saw, if so do we also run some injector cleaner with each add. how about using MMO in the gas tank and oil sump this way will give triple protection. ex...

 

im new to the whole pre mixing thing so if i wanted to do this in my vert could i just go buy some 2-cycle oil for fuel injected cars and dump it into my gas tank when i fill up (how much do i put in?) and this would make my car run smoother?
or do i HAVE to remove all OMP componets before i do this.

 

no you dont have to remove your OMP. but, if you do, it reduces youre carbon buildup significantly. theres no new adverse effects by running premix in conjunction w/ the stock oil system, just the same OLD problem of carbon build up.

and, i dont think i, or any other tech, would recommend just Any 2stroke oil. get some thats specifically designed for FUEL INJECTED engines. if it was designed for an engine using a RAVE or Reed valve (sea-doo motors) thats even better. i know for a fact that 2 stroke watercraft oils (PWC=jetski) are designed to be VERY low carbon and ash content, and low emissions. all the PWC companies (bombardier, yamaha, honda, kawasaki, etc) have switched gears from "fastest on the water" to "cleanest on the water" so if the oil is designed for these NEW models, this would most definitly be good for your rotary

chris

 

hey flubyux2 i posted earlier about the use of the super duper over priced seadooo synthetic 2 cycle oil (40+ bucks a gallon) but noone specifically responded to it.

are you familiar with this type of oil vs rotaries? specifically the effects on the apex seals. or the similarities between exact substance that the apex seal is made up of compared to the substances used in the rave valves?

i think it is an interesting comparison.

i also want to know if the 89 vert i have will support complete removal of the omp safely?


thx bauer

 

hey bud. i dont know the exact specs on the Rotax oil cuz i dont have a container handy. but i remember specifially, it said "has the Lowest ash content" of 2 stroke oils. and Sea-doo has the RX-DI, and the GTX-DI which are both fuel injected, so the rotax oil should be perfectly fine in the RX7.

on top of which, its a smokeless oil, so you wont leave blue clouds everywhere you go.

the RAVE valves in the Sea doo is like a Reedvalve in dirtbikes, but a different operation. what it does is Rotate. like a paper plate rotating w/ quadrants cut out of it. you know, like the vent on top of a charcoal grill. anyways, this Rave valve MUST stay deposit and carbon free or it will seize up and fail to rotate, and thus fail to let the engine run. so its IMPERATIVE that the new Seadoos use an oil that has a really good resistance to carbon deposits and ash deposits. w/ all this info in hand, i think that this would prevent deposits from building up inside the rotary engine.

the problem w/ standard motor oil is that it leaves carbon deposits behind, which cokes up the seals on the rotors which need to remain free so that they can follow the contours of the engine and seal properly. if you can switch to an oil which will NOT leave these deposits, you will have an engine that will not lose HP, will last longer, get better fuel economy, and be cleaner.

as far as removing your OMP system. you cant do that completely. your OMP is electrically operated since its an S5. if you unhook your OMP and toss it, the computer will see that its absent, trigger a check engine light, and may go into limp mode. what you can do is just remove all the oil lines and injectors. and there may be a way to disable the oil pumping capacity of the OMP w/o having to remove it completely. but im not sure how to do that, since i have an S4. just start up another thread about disabling your OMP on an S5 engine.

good luck
chris

 

So what oil/gas ratio are you guy's running your premix at with the oil metering system removed?

 

"personally i think mazda made it to sound like an outside car horn to freak people out.."




dman ...my exhaust is so loud I cannot even hear it...

 

The most accepted ratio is:
128:1 (1 ounce of 2 stroke to one gallon of gas).
Basically a bottle of 2 stroke to a tank of gas.
Its what I run.

I'm yet to find a way to completely blockoff the OMP (due to the ECU code).

DOES ANYONE KNOW, WIRING WISE, HOW TO DISABLE THE OMP ON S5 CARS????

Sean Cathcart

 

Hey, thanks for the info... I'm currently running a Power FC in a FD3S, it doesn't care if the OMP is there or not, so I've completly removed it and made a block off plate... I'm sure there is a way to lie to the computer though on a FC, probably just need to wire in some resistors so the computer thinks there is somthing there..

 

Hell, just throw a bottle of MMM into every 2nd tank of gas!

 

MMM? or do you mean MMO?

 

he's talking about Marvel Mystery Mudd

 

AS of this date I'm one of three in the pole. Kinda overreached. Not really the dumbest idea I've ever heard of. I'm sure I've heard at least two that were worse. humor.

 

On a rx-7 with a active OMP, will running synthetic motor oil in conjunction with pre-mix help reduce carbon build up inside the motor???

 

With the OMP disabled and running premix would it now be possible to use synthetic oil in the crankcase. I heard using synthetic oil was bad for rotaries.

 

running synthetic in a rotary w/ an unmodified OMP system is BAD. some places like pettit or maybe Racing beat contest that running SYnthetics is ok. but i think Not.

the synthetics do not completely burn off during combustion, which will leave more unwanted deposits on your seals, housings and rotors than just carbon. this is bad, this goes against everything we stand for when it comes to rebuilding our rotaries and doing the ATF treatment and trying to restore compression and horsepower in 6PI non turbo rotaries.

you should ONLY run synthetic if you have your OMP disabled. you cant run premix and synthetic in your crankcase if your OMP still operates, cuz itll still shoot the Syntheic into the engine.

and you cant just add MMO every Second tank of gas...its not a rolling average. the 1st tank of gas wont have ANY lubrication, and the 2nd tank (with MMO) will have 2x as much as lube as it needs.

generally speaking, the rotary is designed to Consume 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles.

ive heard a 1:100 ratio suggested, and now a 1:128 ratio. i would go w/ a 1:100 just for safe measures. and make sure you use oil designed SPECIFICALLY for fuel injected engines...and dont skimp out and by the substandard oil... be a lable reader.

good luck
chris

 

correct me if I'm wrong.. there is aprox. 32 ounces in a quart.. 2 stoke oil is usually sold in a 1 quart/1 litre bottle..
the FC's fuel capacity is going to be about 14-15 gallons (55 litres) .. So if you are putting a whole bottle of premix into your tank at fillup, you are running 64:1, not 128:1.. you SHOULD be putting in half a bottle of premix per fill ...

 

That is correct - 16 oz. is half a quart = ~110:1 ratio with 13-14 gallons of fuel.



-Ted

 

How about Mobil 1 MX2T synthetic 2 cycle motorcycle oil?

Will that work?