i get A LOT of smoke when i let off after gettingon it, i'm fairly sure its the premix, i checked the play inmy turbo and its still good. and it doesn't smoke until after i let off underboost, when i'm running underboost there is no smoke. so all i can think of is the massive amounts of fuel added into the system just burns alot of oil underboost.

 

usually when you blow smoke after letting off the throttle, it means your valve seals are going bad....

=o)

Sell me your car and ill get it running like a champ!

 

i'm new to the rotary, do i have to replace the valve seals by rebuilding the engine or can i just do it....

 

He's joking. There are no valves.

 

thats what i thought, cuz when i did my injectors i saw nothing about any valves.


well serves me right i remember i made fun of someone when they were looking for an RX-7, and on the add it said it had rod knock, he asked me how hard it was to fix rod knock.
i just laughed

i guess what goes around comes around

 

OK it seems no one has ever heard about Lucas Oils.. when i was working in this autoparts store we stocked Lucas Oil products.. we stock 3 of their products The Oil Stabalizer, the Tranny Oil Stabalizer, and a Gas Oil. this stuff is just what we are looking for the directions state that it should be 1 ounce for every gallon...
this was a shop that had been around senice 1953 with the same owners so we had a large number of old timers coming in and ALL of the regulars to the shop whould rave about the Lucas line in general... so keep an eye out i run this stuff in my car *havent really noticed a differnce but then agian i got the car yesterday* and whould say its probably one of the best additves you can get.

BTW WTF is a P-Port?

 

Periphel Port

 

Lucas oil wouldn't be the same chain as the Prince of darkness would it?

Cumbrian

 

That depends on where you are buying your gallons :-)


Cumbrian

 

Peripheral Port, not Periphel. Heh.

And since we're talking about valves and such, is this:

true in piston engines? muh Volvo does that.

 

I really have no stance on pre-mix or OMP...I'm inclined to stick with the OMP and premix when at the track for some insurance (in addition to the OMP). As far as carbon build up, remove your cats and drive the car hard!!! Letting this motor work and rev prevents additional build up, correct? Somehow I think thats something we already do

 

Inventor of the intermittent switch...

 

I just recently found out why Brits drink their beer warm.....

Lucas refrigerators with Girling door seals

 

Im sure its been said already, but..

Anyone who thinks the OMP system is so great needs to tear open a motor and marvel at the carbon deposits that build up so thick at the apex seal that it actually scores the housings.

Ive torn down 4 N/A motors, 3 of them died because of OMP related carbon buildup.

 

i recently started to pre-mix because my friend ( GHLS )
has a 7 that has 300,000+ miles on it and i thought whatthe hell he pre-mixes **** there must be nothing wrong with doin it . so i stareted it about a week ago and i feel the difference up top a lil bit. stronger and smoother up top

 

but i run the 2cycle in it with the omp still connected

 

88 SE, your absolutly right. RETed has also said the same thing.

If you want simplicity and reliability, just go ahead and leave your stock OMP on, it wont hurt anything. Just run the premix in addition to it...it's added security.

Mine is an S4, and redlines at 7000, so now i dont feel guilty about holding at 4000 all day long. Or running up all the way till fuel cut (rev limiter at 8000 on NA). well, maybe i do a little since its got 109k miles.

But, ive got no cats or emissions equipment on it...i havent seen inside it, but im hoping i dont have little granules of carbon in it eating away at my apex seals and rotor housings.

Oh, and about Blowing blue smoke when letting off the throttle, that IS true for piston engines. The valve seals are bad if this happens.

Chris

 

though i haven't redlined my car (it doesn't seem to produce reliable power above 5500rpm, so i shift), i know the buzzer you're talking about. it's like a shift like, but with a buzzer. i read that mazda put it there because th rotary revs so freely and smoothly, people could forget to shift. and they're right.

 

my local rotary shop has a stock pile of that Lucas oil gas stabilizer. I should ask them if they use it for premix on their 7s.

 

its freakin annoying. i tell my self that these babies are safe to rev up to 10,500 rpm (which is when the harmonic vibrations in the Eccentric shaft cause it to self-destruct...or something like that) and then i think that running it to 8000 is babying it at that point.

 

My understanding of Mazda's decision to use crankcase oil was that they felt that Americans would not buy a car that required its owner to fill an underhood oil tank at regular intervals. Either they thought that Americans did not want the hassle or would be scared off by an engine that burned oil by design.

I personally am considering the OMP tank adapter and using two stroke oil. My front rotor has a seal that just got carbon locked and I have to do a rebuild because of it. It probably occurred because of deposits left from burning heavy crankcase oil over the course of its 130k miles of use.

 

ha, it sounds just like a stall warning in a Cessna. For all of you who are pilots and RX-7 redliners, you probably got a little bit of a scare when yours first went off! (I did)

 

cough someone-archive-this-thread cough

 

I'll bite!

I bought three plastic containers from Wal-Mart at $0.67 a piece. They are each 8 ounce containers. I found them in the hair products section where they have misc containers and such for travel packages. They have a nice little lid on them and seal up well. 8 ounces I've found to be a good amount of oil to use each time. With 8 ounces you can use 8 gallons of gas which gives you about a half tank (S5 vert). So you don't have to fill up, but if you decide to, you can use two bottles instead of one. I'll also add that every gas station has a meter on the pump that tells you exactly how many gallons of gas you just pumped. So use this as your gauge. I almost forget sometimes when I'm in my daily driver to look at the price meter instead of the gallons meter. Most often I just go to the next higher even dollar when I mix. So if I put in the needed 8 gallons and the prices comes out to be like $11.68 then I'll just put in the extra $0.32 and make it an even $12. Simple as that!

Just DON'T FORGET!!!!!!

 

Someone told me the other day that it isn't good to premix on a car that is only driven on the weekends. He said that the oil and gas seperate in the gas tank when your car sits and when you start your car, you may not have a good mix of oil to protect it. Any truth to this?