Rewired it with an adjustable thermoswitch. After setting it to come on at around 194 degrees (reading the stock ecu input from the rtek) the fan will run about 15 seconds and it will drop it 15 degrees. Need to adjust it again cause it just runs all the time at freeway speeds.

I need to check my tps though because with the fan on and everything warmed up to temp the car will drop to like 600rpm and bounce to 1300 or so and repeat. No vac leaks at all because the car was running fine before the efan install.

 

ive been thinking of doin the e-fan for a couple weeks but still unsure. im worried about using stuff from the junk yard failing on me.

 

That'd vary based on the scrapyard. I have one I go to that has a Ford cars section, a GM cars section, a Chrysler cars section, and a Van/Truck section...

In there, I typically find them in the Van and Truck section, amongst Jeep Cherokees, Ford Rangers, Toyota Pickups, and Mazda MPVs... It's indiscriminate.


Then there's the scrap yards that just kinda pitch the vehicle out there and where ever it ends up, that's where it stays.


Regardless, I haven't seen a single Ford emblem on the grille or tailgate... Nor have I seen a registration or parts ticket call it a Ford Quest...


I know what you're saying and I know what you mean... It's a technicality thing.

 

Was following my wife home from her bank earlier today and what'd I spy in front of us in the left lane?

... a silver Nissan Quest.

B

 

Just picked one up today, out of a 97' Mercury Villager actually (had 90k less miles than the Nissan Quest I found...)

Interesting note: the fan is the same, (the same 3 colored wires come out of the motor are the exact same) The difference is the the plug. The Quest has one plug (for power) and another plug (for hi/low) The Mercury has 1 plug that contains all three. Despite looking better the MERCURY PLUG IS OF INFERIOR QUALITY. I was difficult to get the connector off the one I pulled, then I figured out why....the plastic was melted inside the connector (appeared to be from a short). Went to another Villager a few years newer and there was a very similar condition. Had no such problems w/ the Nissan quest plugs, despite having the highest millage (by 90k)

 

Just grab one today from local junkyard. $50

 

$50? Good grief. Well, still, it's a terrific fan. I think you'll be pleased with it.

B

 

This thing FITS a Koyo Nflow like Perfect.
I cut the tabs off,and Where the rad hoses are,I made Corner cuts.The Fan slipped right in.(installing it left to right), and onto the rad with no issues.I am going to use the Tabs on the Sides of the Rad Bracket mount on the Chassis and Bolt the shroud to the car.The shroud I will drill and bolt the brackets to.I am trying to avoid those Zip Ties..
Once install is done,I will post up pics.
Thanks BDC for the Awesome suggestion.!!.Cheers STYX!~

 

Hey all. I like this e-fan mod, but is there some type of thermostatic switch that has activating temps that are a bit lower than that AUDI/VW one? I don't like the fact that it waits 'till 204 degrees to kick in high speed. By that time, it's too late. 190 is a bit high IMHO for the low speed also, but that's probably just me being picky. I know this is simply because that switch was designed for a different vehicle all together, but there has to be another way. I searched NAPA and I saw no temperature ratings for any of their thermo-switches. Is this just PEBKAC on my part? lol.

- Thanks

 

^^ hey man, check out summit/jegs. I think they have like 180*F (N/O) thermo sensor.

 

I've been running that Audi trigger switch for nearly a year now and although I was a wee bit skeptical about the start points myself, in practice it works very well.

My car has yet to get hot enough to even trip the high speed threshold.

I've installed this identical setup into my third gen V-8 project and it's working quite well- so far- in that application as well (that engine, '96 Vette LT1, doesn't activate it's stock fan till 224°- they run 'em HOT from the factory).

When you say that high speed at 204° is "too late" it makes me suspect that your rad might be deficient, not capable of shedding the heat load efficiently enough.

I consider the fan (either electric or mechanical) to be a support component and think that the waterpump and rad should be able to handle most of the heat load by themselves. The fan is a "helper" that only comes on for more extreme situations.
If you're depending on the fan to run more often to keep temps in check, to me it indicates a weakness in the primary system...i.e., the radiator (not much you can do about the waterpump).

 

Today, I did a quick test drive w/ the new e-fan. I didn't notice much changes in the coolant temp (pretty much steady @ 180-185*F), which is fine.
But I do notice a drop in oil temp. There was a time (after 20mins city driving) idling @ the stop light my coolant temp was 180*F and oil was 170*F.
Anybody else notice a cooler oil temp??
My previous e-fan was only 16" and didn't cover the lower part of the rad and I have fmic.

 

So I designed a thermostat and a problem with one of the two components forced me to add a 3rd component. That would mean a few more wires to solder and long story short with that and the fact that it's untested and heat sensitive it's not worth the time. Just go to a junkyard or order one. But if any of you don't mind soldering for an afternoon (or if for you an afternoon is worth the money saved or if you're experienced at soldering and faster) I can post or PM you the design and parts list. The parts themselves are cheap.

 

Hmmm.... my local junkyard here in Thunder Bay can get me one... for the low price of $150... wtf?????? Their arguement was that they are worth over $400 brand new.

No... I did not buy one. I figured I will look around the internet first!

 

hahahaha, i want what they're smokin.
come down to gta and i can show you some places (junkyard), where you can get one for $30-$50 (you pulled it yourself).

 

Back when I was getting my Taurus and Mark VIII fans the guy at my Pick-n-Pull looked at the fans (after he told me the price) and asked if they were from a Dodge Caravan. I told him no, they were Ford fans. I could tell he would have charged me more for the Taurus fan. At that time the Mark VIII was unknown, but those Pick-n-pull guys are pretty good at upcharging for a popular part like the Taurus fan.

Don't brag to those guys about this new fan or the prices will shoot up!

 

What fuse does anyone use w/ this fan?? I blew my 30A fuse yesterday. I am thinking uppung my fuse to 40A, but my HD bosch relay only rated for 30A.

 

..this fan really BLOWS!.and only on LOW!.I tried HI,but it seemed like over kill.
I am gonna give the car the Old Spring Test Drive,Tomorrow and post up comments.
..NOTE: after I installed this,I stepped back and looked at it and said YESSS!.It has to be the Easiest and most straight forward "mod" to install.It looks good and operates Very Well.
It Is well worth the 70 Cdn I put out on mine.Hell I can eat more than 70 cdn in a weekend,so this was pocket change well spent.

 

Yeah, but that was back when due to exchange rate the $70 could only buy you a MCD Happy Meal.

 

You miss the point, Jack.

Canadians have evolved to the point where they get nourishment from money itself.
Direct from the Treasury to the alimentary canal...no middleman.

That's what socialism can do.

 

I WORK for a Canadian (English Message to Follow) Company. I get the point of Socialism-everyday!

 

That being said, the fan is still a great value

 

If the fuse is a typical two-blade fuse it is probably heating up at the terminals. I had that problem initially with my Taurus fans on high-speed. The fan pulled 25 amps continuously-and the 12 gauge fuse holder heated up. I subsequently bought an 8 gauge fuse holder, but ultimately chose to NOT use it. Why? Because I discovered that the blade connector themselves were current limited to 30 amps. Putting two of them on the fuse still caused some heating. I ended up using the open slot in my main fuse box. It would normally be used for ABS, but my car did not have ABS. The empty slot did not have connectors, so I pick-n-pulled some at the salvage yard. I now have an 8 gauge wire on 100 amp rated connectors. It looks OEM because....it is.

 

^^^ I'm real curious to see if the 30A blade fuse holder I'm using winds up doing the same thing.

B

 

What size fuse do you use now?? Still 30A??