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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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Wtf?

Ok , as i expected something had to go wrong
I was driving yesterday (stil in break in period) ,i decided to just go a little higher on the revs just to see if everything is ok (until then i didnt pass 4000RPM) ,so i go to aroud 6000Rpms and 3rd gear and as soon as i make around 7 psi of boost , i see a HUGE cloud of white smoke in my rear view mirror (way to huge to be tire smoke)
i kept driving to the garage parked the car and everything seems normal , oil pressure is good , i still have oil in my pan , idles normal, just a very slight smoking witch it had since the beginning
today i started the car again , everything normal same as yesterday , but this time i tried to rev it standing still to 6000 rpm just to see if there is smoke , i ended up revving it to 8000rpm to check for smoke and there was some smokiing but not as much as before ....and then its starts to creep on me , could this be a oil control ring problem ??...if so whats the best way to check this??...
anyone care to chime in ??.....
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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is the smoke blue-ish?
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Nah man ....white as hell .....i mean white white.... i have assembled a lot of 2-rotors so far , but it could be possible that i couild have put the oi-ring sprins in the wrong direction of one of the rotors ...could that cause those symptoms ??.....i know i took extra caution when installing the thing but , i guess we are all humans and a mistake is possible , funny thing is it did it right when boost came to play , what do you guys suggest ?,
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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Probably oil turbo return, or bad oil pan vent. Try w/o oil feed cap.
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 01:23 PM
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If it's white smoke, then it's coolant. If it were an oil problem, the smoke would be blue.
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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teachermechanic , the turbo return is ok , big stainless steel braided hose , no kinks i will try w/o the oil cap see what happens ,
rarson if its coolant , after a few runs should i see increased coolant temps??

so nobody seems to think this could be a oil-ring seal ?
again suggestions are welcome
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rarson
If it's white smoke, then it's coolant. If it were an oil problem, the smoke would be blue.
I would have to agree. I also would have to say its a coolant problem if its white smoke. It could be a small coolant seal leak with boost forceing it open. Or if your running a turbo that has coolant flowing through it, it may have bad seals in the turbo as well. A bad oil control ring you would be blowing a massive amount of blue smoke out the tail pipe.
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Sometimes blue smoke can be difficult to distinguish from white, but it sounds like you're pretty certain that it's white and not blue.

If it is a coolant leak, I would expect your temps would rise. If water is getting into the combustion chamber, chances are the combustion is getting out as well (and that heat would obviously be transferred into the coolant).

It sounds like the problem is occurring under boost, but not nearly as much while revving under no load. I'd say it's a good guess you've got a coolant seal issue.
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Did you assemble the engine with OEM coolant seals or aftermarket ones? What type of RTV did you use on the legs of each housing? How long did you take to assemble the whole "stack" before final torque down?
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 06:55 PM
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OEM coolant seals , and it was that grey silicon sealant i used , i did however ,now that you mention it ,have some problems with assembly because the dowel pins where making my life difficult , could a coolant seal be my problem ???.......never thought of that , i will check if my coolant level is dropping ,
BTW happy new year
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by felix_is_alive
OEM coolant seals , and it was that grey silicon sealant i used , i did however ,now that you mention it ,have some problems with assembly because the dowel pins where making my life difficult , could a coolant seal be my problem ???.......never thought of that , i will check if my coolant level is dropping ,
BTW happy new year
I see, I was asking because the very first time I assembled my 20B, I used the silcone coolant seals, and grey sealant. I also had some issues getting it all together quickly. Once I had the engine in the car, and topped off the coolant, it was leaking into rotor one chamber. I then tore down the engine and saw that the grey sealant wasnt as compressed as usual. My theory is either the aftermarket seals suck, or that the grey is much stronger RTV and wont compress very well once dry (aka slow assembly time of a 20b) causing the engine not to sandwich together all the way. So the second time I used the red RTV, and OEM seals, never had a problem since. Hope yours is okay. I personally think that a coolant issue sounds strange, but you never know.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Think i got it , checked today , and my coolant level was low , not only that i had recently put a brand new greddy radiator cap in my AST and found out the rubber piece underneath the cap was de-formed (sign of coolant contamination), plus i found some dark residue in my coolant furthet leading me to belive that there is some contamination there ,also yesterday when i took my plugs out to check them , and found the two rear ones(trailing and leading) had some slight orange residue on them (i think thats coolant) also after some driving the car today i also noticed some pressure in my radiator hoses ....so ......i think thats it ......

Thinking back now i do remember one of my Irons having some rust near the coolant seal , it seemed ok at the time but is posible that there might have been a breach there

I think i am going to drive the car a bit more , watching my temps of course , and my goal is to see if i can get a more solid sign (more residue on the plugs) to be shure witch rotor it is , if its the rear one its an easy fix i gues , i can take it out and fix that seal and have it back in in no time .

what do you guys think???
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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I say just pull it back apart. This is the reason I use the aftermarket coolant seals since they are re-usable. If anything, you'll just get better and better at re-assembly.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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i am going to look for some seals tommorow , if i get some i will do it this coming weekend provided i get a chance of course
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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not to go off subject, but..

ive read people meantioning of these 'reusable aftermarket coolent seals' a few times, however havent atleast in my traveles seen them for sale, can you point me in the right direction

sorry for going offtopic

-Jacob
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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damn man.....this car is fighting you like crazy.....My 5.0l FC fights me just as bad. Hope you can fix it before it hurts any hard parts...
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by five0rx791
damn man.....this car is fighting you like crazy.....My 5.0l FC fights me just as bad. Hope you can fix it before it hurts any hard parts...
Tell me about it , ist like this love-hate relationship .......its all good though .....i am a very VERY patient man ....wish i could say the same about my wife though !
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
not to go off subject, but..

ive read people meantioning of these 'reusable aftermarket coolent seals' a few times, however havent atleast in my traveles seen them for sale, can you point me in the right direction

sorry for going offtopic

-Jacob
I belive rotary aviation has the ones that are reusable , the are teflon encapsulated if i am not mistaken , kinda of a bitch tu install but they seem worth it though , in just recently built a 13b with them , .....they seem ok to me
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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Ok now get this , i drove the car this weekend , (i am waiting on my coolant seals ) but all of a sudden the smoking under hard revs stopped , i still do get a little bit at idle but i have no overheating issues and no smoke under hard revs , .....so now what ?......do i still have the coolant seal issue ?
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