if pettit were to build a 3 rotor na fd would it be reliable like the na fcs? what would the figures look like. I believe someone already did this and the car was still verty well balanced. Also if you could throw in a price figure? I was think since cooling wont be as big of an issue with the turbod ones cracks, boost, and detonation won't be as big of an ordeal?

 

Call Pettit...I am sure he will give you all the details you need!

 

It is very hard for someone to give you a price for a motor when someone else is going to build it...same thing goes for reliability....

 

mines done the 800mile round trip to la twice without any trouble

mike

 

Since were on this subject of a reliable "NA" 20b, is it possible to have the aftermarket ecu tuned for non boost settings? What I mean is if the 20b is tuned for example 10psi, could the ecu also be tuned for non boost for normal daily driving? It would be like a high & low boost settings right? Sure it wouldn't be as fast but, atleast you would still have a consideral amount of torque & drivability. Plus driving it around NA it could be tuned for higher a/f ratios for better fuel economy and run at lower temps for more reliability. Is this possible?

 

Turbocharged engines don't just blow up. Pettit designs their regular turbocharged Banzi to last, and it shouldn't have any problems. If you would still like a non-turbo 20B, then that's your choice, but I see no point in paying that much money for a 200-300hp engine just so that the engine lasts maybe 5,000 more miles than the 550hp version. You need to call Pettit for a quote, but expect pricing around the $35,000-40,000 mark.

All turbos do this automatically to some extent. The turbo boost is based on the engine load. Therefore, at idle and cruise (low load), the engine IS going to be in NA mode, and the stock ECU will run at a stoich (or maybe even slightly leaner) air-fuel ratio. If the driver is light on the gas pedal, and the car is not under a lot of load (not pulling or carrying a lot of weight, not going up a hill, etc.) then the turbo will produce very little boost or no boost at all. Therefore, the boost-limiting device is the pedal on the right.

As for your question about limiting boost via a standalone EMS, yes, this is possible. The engine will boost to the limit of the wastegate spring setting, but the EMS or boost controller can determine the max boost setting past the wastegate spring limit. Of course, the turbo may not be able to achieve the boost setting, or it may boost creep over the setting, but everything will work properly if these issues are resolved. The Haltech E11 and Wolf3DV4 have 3D boost control that lets the user set the max boost level at different rpm's, and different ECU maps may be loaded to change these boost values as required. For example, you could have a low-boost map for emissions testing, a mid-boost map for autocrossing, a mid-boost map for speedway racing, a less aggressive boost map for driving in rain, a high-boost map for drag racing, etc.

 

mine runs about 15:1 afr cruising (its almost bucking) and when you step on the gas it goes to about 10:1, if you want to save gas i dont let it boost. right now i have no boost control so its laggy and easy to keep it out of boost

mike

 

Ok so if my setup is tuned for say 650 rwhp, I could still try to drive around normal without the system running too rich? I just don't understand how this tunning stuff works. Sometimes I try to drive easy with my Fd but it's hard because the boost (even at light throttle) still kicks in a bit.

 

the fd is designed to be responsive like that. if you keep out of the turbos on the fd it runs as lean as it can with a cat (14.7:1).

mike

 

Yes. 40,000 miles, so far, and it's like the Everready Bunny.

 

If properly taken care of, like any rotary should be, it should run for a very long time.

 

Hahahaha, George, you're showing your age!

It's the Energizer bunny to us whippersnappers!

Brandon
BR7 Racing