Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

wow!!

that's quite abit!! I guess I need to start saving..

pianoprodigy

Yeah, I was told "at least $20k" to have my mechanic do the conversion. He is doing one now in an FD, so I'll wait to see how that turns out. Hopefully my 13b will hold up until I graduate from law school.

Also, what does Red-Rx7 have for porting that he is making 640whp at 13 psi??? Does anyone know the torque on the beast?

owen is fat

wow, I just found this thread and some of you guys have INSANE costs in your 20B swaps, holy shitcakes!

not that I dont appreciate a 3-rotor engine, its cool as hell, but for the money, I'm very glad I went LS1 v8!

Evil Aviator

Yes, due to better support and parts availability in the US, a V-8 swap isn't such a bad idea. However, most 20B swaps are performed for reasons other than dyno numbers. You will notice that in this forum, we generally discourage people from thinking of a 20B swap as a cheap & easy method to gain more performance. Also, were you to go all-out with an LS-1 swap, you would be looking at over $50,000.

RETed

I think the numbers you posted was close to $10,000 for your 350lb-ft of torque.
I think we can get our project 20B FC right around $10k.
We're shooting for over 500lb-ft.
Still think it's overpriced?


-Ted

owen is fat

if that is for your entire project including the FC chassis and suspenson, wheels and tires, then yes I will be impressed, not only because you prove its possible but because you would have displyed such ancredible restraint from doing over-the-top mods. plus any well tuned, non-turbo, 3-rotor setup is wild and curious and impressive IMHO. It seems as long as you source a well-running 20B that does not require a rebuild, you could very well keep costs way down. I'm totally in love with the 3-rotor engine and the power potential, even N/A, especially in a well setup FC but I get bummed out when I see its not cheaper for people to do (well). yeah the "under 10 grand" for my entire project was the #1 reason I chose the LSFC route, #2 was its reliability for such good power #3 was the ability to stay light and keep the engine small (short length and short height).

RETed

Yeah, it's a ghetto project due to the owner and a track car, so all mods side toward the functional.
I don't think you can beat $70/rim from Summit Racing for the fronts!
Add the cost of suspension and other mods, it adds about $2000, so it's roughly about $8000.
We do run an overkill OS Giken triple plate that eats up almost $2,000 in the budget though!
The turbos are the next step, and that's this big cost - no way around it.
We're looking at $2,000 more to get everything installed and running.
Then comes the fun part tuning for boost!

BTW, thanx for the write-up on your V8 project.
I've never seen anyone detail it like yours and although some of the prices are damn good ($1500 for motor!), it's a good amount of information you're volunteered!


-Ted

Turbo 3

iTrader: (3)

I probably got him beat by some margin...not good.

owen is fat

lol, it sounds better than ghetto-tech but I understand what you mean.. not the best in every system but there are some sweet parts and it will be one entirely fast and functional car, very cool... best of luck to ya! thanks for the kind words, its guys like you (who do a great deal of sharing info online to help others) who made me feel like it was a good idea to do the same and document an LS1FC project that isnt just for drag-race and isnt a backyard-junkheap and since so many n00bs ask the same questions over and over and the other people that wouldnt ask never would have known unless I spelled it out. I took it for a drive thursday, we had 65 degree temps locally and it just freakin' hauls major *** and hugs the road incredibly well... I love it.

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

He already has. I feel like such a cheapskate.

BTW, that's based on the cost of the conversion alone--not including the original chassis. Since I had already driven the car 172,000 miles, I figured it was pretty well a freebie.

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

I'm done paying for the twin's college, so I'm keeping the car. I changed my sig in June, so it no longer says "For Sale".

Turbo 3

iTrader: (3)

I think the only way we'd be able to sell our cars after the conversion and get even remotely what was sunk into them would be to auction them at like Barret's or something...or part it out. No way will "most" people pay a lump sum for something they could go out and buy a new C6 or porsche, etc, with financing to boot. Oh well, not what we got into this lunacy for anyhow

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

You're right. Most people who have that much money will go for the shiny, new car. During the time I had my car for sale, I also noticed that the people who want a highly modified car--whether a 20B or a single-turbo 3rd gen--want to do it themselves.

So, for customers, we need rich, lazy, rotary fanatics. That's pretty small group.

Kotetsu

Hi guys,

I'm actually considering swapping a FD3S with a 20B too. Well I've found a rebuilt engine for a reasonable price but I don't know how far I'll need to modifiy the car to get through this. I'd like to reach 450 or 500 hp so I assume the stock turbos will do the job...

However, what parts should I buy in order to complete the swap? And of course do you have any recommendations for me?

For the record I live in Japan.

Thanks in advance.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

oldddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd thread

2Fierce

iTrader: (7)

back from the dead

owen is fat

no way in hell.
even with all new GM parts you would be looking at JUST half that $50k and thats for an LS7 505hp n/a setup with a built T56 behind it.

the money you guys pour into rotaries is absurd. I dont want to come off as a hater at all, I am just familiar with your point of view, coming from the honda world where I tried to squeeze insane hp/liter figures out of my 1.8L vtec motor and went bonkers with mods and more mods and expensive japan only parts and transmission work, etc etc and had friends with $2000 carbon fiber intake manifolds, big dollar mega beefy axle setups, etc. I know what the devotion to a specific powerplant or chassis can do to your pocketbook if you just keep on throwing money at the project at every chance for a better part and more power and longer lifespan.

I love the 20b, especially n/a thru a set of ITBs, but theyre so damned expensive to build, maintain, tune and replace if anything goes wrong, so I am very glad with the choice I made.

with a basic 99 LS1T56 setup for $3000 you only need a few grand more to have it in the car up and running, and if you own a turbo2 or an FD then you get the added bonus of selling parts removed for some serious cash to offset the entire conversion.

but I give you guys some props for your diehard rotary love, defintely to the guys who build them and love them and know them inside and out, its a very special powerplant.

calculon

iTrader: (29)

dude, you know that you quoted a 3 year old post that you had already responded to back then, right?

Evil Aviator

Don't buy any parts. Just have a good local Japanese shop perform the conversion. Nearly everything is less expensive there.

You catalog shoppers crack me up with your definition of "all-out".

owen is fat

well how much more all out do you need to go than a brand spanking new LS7 crate motor and then a bulletproof T56 from DnD?!?!?!
after having a shop make custom longtubes and finding some mega super duper fancy pants clutch, I'd still have tons of money to spend.
I dunno if I could even find enough parts to buy for an LS1 with 50 grand.
even a Harrop ITB setup and tuning wouldnt come close to it, even with a shop built motor and tranny.

trust me I am anything but a catalog shopper.

thetech

iTrader: (1)

I don't think anyone on this forum (including me) considers a 450rwhp crate motor 'all out'. It's still obviously a great setup, but you are on a forum where people are talking about building 1000hp street cars; that's 'all out'.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

lol

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

of all things paul ko and i were talking about a 20b fc, again a couple of weekends ago. this time moving the engine back and down.

we've also kinda decided on an N/A setup, cause it would make the right amount of power, be simple and we'd be able to cool it

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

The stock turbos won't get you to the 450-500 WHP level - 400 is about it. Trust me, I tried and the best I did was 400 no matter what level of boost. The stockers run out of air at a bout 5,500 RPMs.

BLK FC3S