Rebuilding my 20B, which seals to choose? And a mild street port perhaps?

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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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Troclo's Avatar
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Rebuilding my 20B, which seals to choose? And a mild street port perhaps?

So C424 is getting a rebuild as front rotor has lost all compression.

Ive looked through a lot of apex seal threads, most of them from back in 2005-07.

There seem to be a great deal of opinions on stock vs Atkins and again on whether cryo
is a good thing. What experinceses do you guys have with cryo?

And as for porting, whats the best way to go for a streetcar, no track no drag?.
I must say I like it fine the way it was, stock ports and all but I understand that the exhaust ports are to small in most folks opinion. Thanks.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 04:16 AM
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Hands down, nothing beats the stock mazda seal except for ceramics. As for the exhaust ports I would replace the exhaust port sleeves with the ones on FD housings. Then just match the lip to the sleeve. If you want to keep it stocking then clean up the casting flash and reshape the runner and bowl for better flow.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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How about these RA super seals? and any thoughts 2 vs 3 mm?
RA Super Seals
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 08:51 PM
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Best# Ceramic
Second # OEM
Third # RA
on so on..

If you plan to keep the rpm on the low side with low boost OEM or RA. High boost 8k+ rpm Ceramic .
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Supers seals are great but the Classics will handle any abuse you throw at it and will be easier on the housings.
Classics can handle low or high boost no prob.
Im not sure how the OEM seals are. I never run them. If you do make sure you run 2 piece.... if they even make 3 piece anymore.... :P
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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Goopy/ALS are the best seals out there imo.

On another note my going theory on the 20b is that just go huge *** ports. Reason is the motor makes so much torque, it doesn't matter so its best to get the higher topend. You'll be spinning tires in the midrange no matter what you do.

Last night I took my car out on my street tires and did a pull in 4th. The tires decided to break loose at 190 km/h when the power band kicked in towards the top of 4th. I was wheeling hoping at 200 km/h and tail was starting to kick out 20b's are awesome.

thewird
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 07:13 AM
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Gooby? Ill have to look into that. Yeah 20B´s are great, I found a C-series with 20.000 miles on it in Sweden that Ive bought. Ill drop that in while waiting for my new rebuild, I got my own garage so its pretty easy for me!

Did a pull in 3rd a couple a weeks ago before the front rotor went. I was overtaking a BMW 525I and though it had been raining the road seem dry. They must have pissed their pants in that car when my tail suddenly drifted in front of them going well over 130 kmh!!! (I nearly did! LOL)

Ive been looking a this to clear my hood and get better flow but its 1500 USD with shipping and tax before its in my hands here in Copenhagen is it worth it I wonder?
Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing

Last edited by Troclo; Sep 15, 2013 at 07:22 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Troclo
Gooby? Ill have to look into that. Yeah 20B´s are great, I found a C-series with 20.000 miles on it in Sweden that Ive bought. Ill drop that in while waiting for my new rebuild, I got my own garage so its pretty easy for me!

Did a pull in 3rd a couple a weeks ago before the front rotor went. I was overtaking a BMW 525I and though it had been raining the road seem dry. They must have pissed their pants in that car when my tail suddenly drifted in front of them going well over 130 kmh!!! (I nearly did! LOL)

Ive been looking a this to clear my hood and get better flow but its 1500 USD with shipping and tax before its in my hands here in Copenhagen is it worth it I wonder?
Online Store - Xcessive Manufacturing
Yup get that intake. Its what I use and my hood closes with stock subframe and RE-A hood. I hold torque to about 7.5k as shorter intakes are better for high RPM.

thewird
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